Builds GW Nugget's Family Haulin Lx450 build (3 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #62
You can just put the springs in and drive it. If you don't like how it steers then add the plates. Some say it drive fine. I don't know how loaded you are etc...
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- Thread starter
- #63
I blacked out my rims...
Well, I did it in photoshop...
Well, I did it in photoshop...
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- Thread starter
- #64
Learn my lesson, Don't do this.
Reducing backspace...
As of 1.25.15 I finally had time to do some R&D on the spacing problem. I had two 1/4" spacers in hand & tried to put those on but with the studs being 1" long there was not enough threads left to tighten the lug nuts.
Bummer.
At this point I could see the aluminum wheel is hitting the caliper just by a wee bit, something that could be very easily ground off no problem.
For the backspacing to be where it needs to be is 1/2". To do this spacing I will need longer studs. I did set the back of the wheel up against the 1" studs & everything cleared just fine. The problem with this is that it will only be a 1/2" ruduction in backspacing. I hope this will fix the rubbing fender issues. It will be $50 for two 1" wheel spacers.
My only other hope is that a steal wheel could have a larger bell opening & therefore be able to slide past the calipers with a 1/2" backspaceing. There is a guy that has done this before here is a link to the thead of the same thing that I am talking about. Here is a pic from that thread. This guy has a 1" spacer & a 3.5" BS just like mine but with a steal wheels. He did write that it could work with 1/2" spacing but he wanted to fill the fender out more.
All though he did mention that with that set up he had no rubbing problems & they tucked in the fenders. Here is a pic of his set up.
Here's mine. It looks like my tire has more on the edge then his.
I think it's worth 50 bucks to try...
Stay tuned.
Reducing backspace...
As of 1.25.15 I finally had time to do some R&D on the spacing problem. I had two 1/4" spacers in hand & tried to put those on but with the studs being 1" long there was not enough threads left to tighten the lug nuts.
Bummer.
At this point I could see the aluminum wheel is hitting the caliper just by a wee bit, something that could be very easily ground off no problem.
For the backspacing to be where it needs to be is 1/2". To do this spacing I will need longer studs. I did set the back of the wheel up against the 1" studs & everything cleared just fine. The problem with this is that it will only be a 1/2" ruduction in backspacing. I hope this will fix the rubbing fender issues. It will be $50 for two 1" wheel spacers.
My only other hope is that a steal wheel could have a larger bell opening & therefore be able to slide past the calipers with a 1/2" backspaceing. There is a guy that has done this before here is a link to the thead of the same thing that I am talking about. Here is a pic from that thread. This guy has a 1" spacer & a 3.5" BS just like mine but with a steal wheels. He did write that it could work with 1/2" spacing but he wanted to fill the fender out more.
All though he did mention that with that set up he had no rubbing problems & they tucked in the fenders. Here is a pic of his set up.
Here's mine. It looks like my tire has more on the edge then his.
I think it's worth 50 bucks to try...
Stay tuned.
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- Thread starter
- #65
Learn my lesson, Don't do this.
As of 2.3.15 I found time to get the 1" spacers on.
Took a quick trip to the creek bed & found my favorite test spot, it still rubbed just a wee bit. Very slight rubbing on edge of right rear tire.
Went back & did a little bit of hammering on the right side inside rear fender lip & trimed the bottom corner of the flare.
I did go to try it once more late at night and this time the right rear really went all the way stuffed & I herd a loud rubbing flip flip flip.... I didn't curl the lip enough & this is the result.
Yes I'm part of the chucked tire club now. Here's a pic of what caused it.
Just for historical record fitting 15" rims is not recommended due spacing issues, but is possible. If you have them run them. A little more hammering & it will work.
As of 2.3.15 I found time to get the 1" spacers on.
Took a quick trip to the creek bed & found my favorite test spot, it still rubbed just a wee bit. Very slight rubbing on edge of right rear tire.
Went back & did a little bit of hammering on the right side inside rear fender lip & trimed the bottom corner of the flare.
I did go to try it once more late at night and this time the right rear really went all the way stuffed & I herd a loud rubbing flip flip flip.... I didn't curl the lip enough & this is the result.
Yes I'm part of the chucked tire club now. Here's a pic of what caused it.
Just for historical record fitting 15" rims is not recommended due spacing issues, but is possible. If you have them run them. A little more hammering & it will work.
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- Thread starter
- #66
My tight little ride just tripped 171,171.
- Thread starter
- #67
Finally tucked 35s...
They still do rub a bit but not fender ripping rub. It now rubs the top of the fender well. There is approx. 1" to the bump stop. To further fix this issue is to get an adjustable panhard bar to pull in ward the right rear tire approx. 1/2". Also grind more on calipers to reduce even more backspace. Currently at 2" of BS. That's to much... It's a work in progress
It looks like this my next purchase from Slee.
.
Rear Weld-in Adjuster
Part#:SOF1016 - $105.00
Fits '91-'97 Land Cruisers
They still do rub a bit but not fender ripping rub. It now rubs the top of the fender well. There is approx. 1" to the bump stop. To further fix this issue is to get an adjustable panhard bar to pull in ward the right rear tire approx. 1/2". Also grind more on calipers to reduce even more backspace. Currently at 2" of BS. That's to much... It's a work in progress
It looks like this my next purchase from Slee.
.
Rear Weld-in Adjuster
Part#:SOF1016 - $105.00
Fits '91-'97 Land Cruisers
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- Thread starter
- #68
Rear Cargo Space...
I'm at the point in the build that I'm thinking about how to get all that cool camping stuff in the back of the tight little ride. Plus the space consuming spare tire.
UGG!
The spare tire...
I went with a stand up spare rack that looks like this.
I'm at the point in the build that I'm thinking about how to get all that cool camping stuff in the back of the tight little ride. Plus the space consuming spare tire.
UGG!
The spare tire...
I went with a stand up spare rack that looks like this.
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- Thread starter
- #69
retrofive you are so right with the statement of not fitting well. This has consumed so much of my time to get these to fit, flex & tuck that I could of been on some other part of my project by now. I get hard headed at times & have to learn the hard way.
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- Thread starter
- #70
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- Thread starter
- #71
Im back the the 265/75R16s for now...
I sold the 35s & 15" rims.
I got tired of messing around with trying to shoehorn them in. They finally did fit after grinding on the calipers with 3.5" backspace.
I sold the 35s & 15" rims.
I got tired of messing around with trying to shoehorn them in. They finally did fit after grinding on the calipers with 3.5" backspace.
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- Thread starter
- #72
I have been doing a lot of testing of the capabilities of my front suspension & here is what I have found so far. With no shocks, the measurements came out to 16" to 26". That's terrible 16" to 26". This is with swaybar installed.
My current set up is the Old Man Emu medium duty 851 coil in front with a 1" spacer & in the rear is the OME 860 medium. This gives the Cruiser 2.5" inches of lift.
I was running stock shocks with a 2.5"x1.5" square block to make the shock taller. Now that you now the basics we can get down to the tech stuff.
The stock shocks are 14" to 24". With the 2.5" extention it was 16.5" to 26.5".
With the 35" tires it worked very well, the front 35s were stuffed but no major rubbing. It needed 1" less up travel to be save for a big hit.
I just resently purchased a set of 812SS shocks from Doetsch Tech. They have 12" of travel. 17" to 29". This is a new rebuildable shock they offer for $80.00
This gives me 3" of available down travel. Also to add is my static ride height is 23" this gives 6" up & 6" down (really currently 3" down).
Next is to get the swaybar disconnected & see just how much more drop that gives.
My current set up is the Old Man Emu medium duty 851 coil in front with a 1" spacer & in the rear is the OME 860 medium. This gives the Cruiser 2.5" inches of lift.
I was running stock shocks with a 2.5"x1.5" square block to make the shock taller. Now that you now the basics we can get down to the tech stuff.
The stock shocks are 14" to 24". With the 2.5" extention it was 16.5" to 26.5".
With the 35" tires it worked very well, the front 35s were stuffed but no major rubbing. It needed 1" less up travel to be save for a big hit.
I just resently purchased a set of 812SS shocks from Doetsch Tech. They have 12" of travel. 17" to 29". This is a new rebuildable shock they offer for $80.00
This gives me 3" of available down travel. Also to add is my static ride height is 23" this gives 6" up & 6" down (really currently 3" down).
Next is to get the swaybar disconnected & see just how much more drop that gives.
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- Thread starter
- #73
My tight little ride got some 315s today.
The E rating has a firmer sporty feel to them compared to the spungy C rated 35s.
The E rating has a firmer sporty feel to them compared to the spungy C rated 35s.
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ToyotaDon
I am here
Have you had it in any rough stuff yet to see how those shocks perform? I'd like to get something better than the ProComps I have now.
- Thread starter
- #75
Not yet Don. But I can say on road they are a just right... not mushy and not to hard.
I also have only fronts on & stock rears. I will report back with more details. At this time I have the swaybar disconnected also.
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- Thread starter
- #76
Rear shocks
I put some shock extension blocks on the rear stock shocks because it only had 2.5" of down travel. Now the it has 5" with the 2.5" tubing.
The exact specs are:
My static height is 21.5"
My stock shocks are 14.3" to 23.3"
Stock with 2.5" x 1.5" tubing plus washers is 17" to 26.5"
Shock removed the suspension is 16" to 26.5"
This is all with no swaybar extention.
The result of this has made the suspension feel more balanced & doesn't teter tater or pogo stick & carry tires as much. As you can see the front needs more work to get more drop. I did disconnect they swaybar just to see if it did help & it did help by .5" both ways, to me this is not the limiting factor of my suspension, it has to be the arm bushings. Maybe the next thing to try is drilling out the caster bushing or something???
I give tribute to OME, they did there home work with using all of the 80 suspension has to offer in stock form & the "L" shock.
I put some shock extension blocks on the rear stock shocks because it only had 2.5" of down travel. Now the it has 5" with the 2.5" tubing.
The exact specs are:
My static height is 21.5"
My stock shocks are 14.3" to 23.3"
Stock with 2.5" x 1.5" tubing plus washers is 17" to 26.5"
Shock removed the suspension is 16" to 26.5"
This is all with no swaybar extention.
The result of this has made the suspension feel more balanced & doesn't teter tater or pogo stick & carry tires as much. As you can see the front needs more work to get more drop. I did disconnect they swaybar just to see if it did help & it did help by .5" both ways, to me this is not the limiting factor of my suspension, it has to be the arm bushings. Maybe the next thing to try is drilling out the caster bushing or something???
I give tribute to OME, they did there home work with using all of the 80 suspension has to offer in stock form & the "L" shock.
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- Thread starter
- #77
Don you asked how the front Doetsch Tech shocks are in the ruff stuff... Well, we shot a video just for you. Oh & yah to add they worked AWESOME!
I won't be going threw whoops this hard again. I have to remember that I'm not racing quads anymore.
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ToyotaDon
I am here
Nice! Now I need to get out there, or get you to come this way so we can make a comparison. BTW, we are heading for a place called Dillonwood Grove on Saturday.
- Thread starter
- #79
Shocks are a easy 4 bolt... I should let you just try them on. What is your ride height? Mine is 23".
I looked up Dillonwood Grove... sounds beautiful. We can't make it this time, but now that I'm not chunking lugs off tires it's time to hit the trails I'm pretty pumped!!
The first couple of day trip places I want to take the never gone 4wheeling family is Hollister (125 miles away) and Bald Mountain near Shaver Lake (130 miles away). These should be a good mellow introduction to this wonderful sport we call wheeling.... The last 3 weeks of April is good for me if you have intrest in maybe meeting up.
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ToyotaDon
I am here
The last weekend in April is Mud-n-Yer Eye Frolic at Hollister. I'll likely be in the bay area for a conference Friday & Saturday, and am thinking of hitting the Frolic on the way back.
