- Thread starter
- #701
Thanks Steve. I needed to pull the carpet anyways to clean & lay down a layer of heat shield.
Builds GW Nugget's Family Haulin Lx450 build (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #702
Last change 9-2619 200,800
1-15-20 205,054 Mobil 1 5-30W
On to more fun stuff...
How low can I go & retain 4" inches of uptravel....
Now sitting on a 2" total lift. Guess how much shock travel it has?
Im on 1" front bumps 1.5" rear & 37s.
1-15-20 205,054 Mobil 1 5-30W
On to more fun stuff...
How low can I go & retain 4" inches of uptravel....
Now sitting on a 2" total lift. Guess how much shock travel it has?
Im on 1" front bumps 1.5" rear & 37s.
Of course a set of detailed photos will be required because the numbers don’t make sense.
- Thread starter
- #704
Are these the numbers you are looking for? Hope this helps...
Note: the must have Wits end sticker.
Note: the must have Wits end sticker.
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Did you remove the body lift and lower the springs 1"? I really want to see pics! If I can steal the secret sauce you come up with to run 37s on my rig... well... I could run 37s on my rig! (As long as there's minimal cutting, because of New England rust)
- Thread starter
- #706
So, to be clear, I wont end up with a total 2" of lift... most likely it will be 3"
Removing the body lift is the simple way to loose 1" of lift, but what about a 2" suspension lift & 1" body lift?
Can a longtravel 50mm lift be done with 37s or even 39s??? we will see stay tuned.
Cutting will be required. @Lumpskie
I'm just having winter fun games, fooling around with "HOW LOW CAN I GO"
The controlling factor is how much uptravel will be lost & were is the happy medium.
I did stock coils & spacers with 315s years back.
It was to sloppy & to low.
Since then I replaced all the rubber control arm bushings... which is where most of the slop comes from.
So at this time I have 2" of coils spacers on top of my stock Lx450 coils along with a new set of rear Tough Dog 1" lift coils.
It sits at 21.5" & 22.5" with fresh rear coils.
STINK BUG.
The frame height just behind Tcase is 18".
Just for reference with the 75mm Slinky & 1" body it was 24+- bottom of fender with 5.25" shock shaft travel in front with 1" bumpstop.
The rear was also 5.25" of bumpstop gap with 1.5" lowered frame bumpstops.
Now front uptravel is approx 3" & rear is 3.5".
With those numbers in hand doing the math I can achieve 4" of uptravel if I get to a 23" hub to flare measurement which is a 3" lift.
SO... I might just throw the Slinkies back in & remove the body lift.
Hmm
If I do that I will loose all the benefits of a body lift.
Removing the body lift is the simple way to loose 1" of lift, but what about a 2" suspension lift & 1" body lift?
Can a longtravel 50mm lift be done with 37s or even 39s??? we will see stay tuned.
Cutting will be required. @Lumpskie
I'm just having winter fun games, fooling around with "HOW LOW CAN I GO"
The controlling factor is how much uptravel will be lost & were is the happy medium.
I did stock coils & spacers with 315s years back.
It was to sloppy & to low.
Since then I replaced all the rubber control arm bushings... which is where most of the slop comes from.
So at this time I have 2" of coils spacers on top of my stock Lx450 coils along with a new set of rear Tough Dog 1" lift coils.
It sits at 21.5" & 22.5" with fresh rear coils.
STINK BUG.
The frame height just behind Tcase is 18".
Just for reference with the 75mm Slinky & 1" body it was 24+- bottom of fender with 5.25" shock shaft travel in front with 1" bumpstop.
The rear was also 5.25" of bumpstop gap with 1.5" lowered frame bumpstops.
Now front uptravel is approx 3" & rear is 3.5".
With those numbers in hand doing the math I can achieve 4" of uptravel if I get to a 23" hub to flare measurement which is a 3" lift.
SO... I might just throw the Slinkies back in & remove the body lift.
Hmm
If I do that I will loose all the benefits of a body lift.
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How about leaving the rear as is and try going back with the slinky coils up front? This will eliminate stink bug and raise the front bumper to increase approach angle.
- Thread starter
- #708
That would put me back to a 4" lift.
Slinky has a 50mm front with a 160/240 rates.
Also been talking with Trail Tailor Jason about a light duty 50mm front that is tall enough to run with the Dobinson 6" lift shock which is 28.66" long.
I'm gong to play with this & see where the rear coils settle in at, then add spacers to make 3" of lift.
They are a 220/280 rate coil.
I am also going to see where @brosky is going to land his bumpstops with his new 39x12.5s.
I was able to help him get his RR trimmed to fit with 2.5" bumpstop.
This is very promising since I'm right at the equivalent of 2.5" BumpStop now.
The 39s come out to 38.5" bye the way... 1.5" taller than 37s"
Slinky has a 50mm front with a 160/240 rates.
Also been talking with Trail Tailor Jason about a light duty 50mm front that is tall enough to run with the Dobinson 6" lift shock which is 28.66" long.
I'm gong to play with this & see where the rear coils settle in at, then add spacers to make 3" of lift.
They are a 220/280 rate coil.
I am also going to see where @brosky is going to land his bumpstops with his new 39x12.5s.
I was able to help him get his RR trimmed to fit with 2.5" bumpstop.
This is very promising since I'm right at the equivalent of 2.5" BumpStop now.
The 39s come out to 38.5" bye the way... 1.5" taller than 37s"
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- Thread starter
- #709
I went to my twist spot today to check the rear cone bumps up front out.
The rear coils settled down a bit & has less stinkbug.
Also to note I didnt think that my last measurements & pics was parked nose down in a angled parking spot.
It sits up .25" more on level ground in the front.
Here it is on level ground.
21.75" & 22.25"
The rear 1" Tough Dogs are exactly that 1" plus the 10mm packer is landing at 22.25"
I have a 37" tire, 42qt frig & approx. 200#s of junk in the back.
The rear coils settled down a bit & has less stinkbug.
Also to note I didnt think that my last measurements & pics was parked nose down in a angled parking spot.
It sits up .25" more on level ground in the front.
Here it is on level ground.
21.75" & 22.25"
The rear 1" Tough Dogs are exactly that 1" plus the 10mm packer is landing at 22.25"
I have a 37" tire, 42qt frig & approx. 200#s of junk in the back.
- Thread starter
- #710
Im also testing out the rear cone bumps up front, it turns out they are exactly 1" taller than the stock units with vehicle weight on them.
And yes I will be rounding off, trimming off that edge lip that's sticking out... so no need to make comments about it.
Here is after test drive articulated & dropping off a 2 foot ledge a couple times. Its not much different is it?
And yes I will be rounding off, trimming off that edge lip that's sticking out... so no need to make comments about it.
Here is after test drive articulated & dropping off a 2 foot ledge a couple times. Its not much different is it?
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Are you still using the Slinky shocks? If so, I think you should shoot for 23" hub to fender, all suspension. That would enable me to almost exactly copy you. It's all about selfishness these days!
You'd be creating a belly dragger.........
1" better than now though! (37s vs 315s)
Or do you mean that my axle clearance would be improved, leaving me to get into obstacles that would drag my belly?
Ok so you plan to maintain the same suspension but go up to 37’s? In that case, enjoy your extra inch.
- Thread starter
- #715
If you want to play belly or frame height then the 3" suspension wins. My frame with 37s & 3" suspension lift was 20". Now is 18"
Be it 3" or 2" plus 1" it looks like it will end up 3" of total lift to keep 4" of shock travel.
I am warming up to the fact I will loose the body lift & be like everyone else.
Remember this is a game to see "HOW LOW CAN I GO".
Be it 3" or 2" plus 1" it looks like it will end up 3" of total lift to keep 4" of shock travel.
I am warming up to the fact I will loose the body lift & be like everyone else.
Remember this is a game to see "HOW LOW CAN I GO".
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- Thread starter
- #716
To run 37s without cutting, do what the AZ boys do 3.5" lift 850J/863 2.5" bumps & skinny 7.5" FJC wheels & 1" wheel spacers.
@brosky ran 37s on stock wheels, no spacers 1" front bumps & 2" rear bumps.
@baldilocks is running 37s with 1" wheel spacers & 2.5" bumps. All documented in his White Rino thread.
Im not cut in the rear & run equivalent to 2.5" bumps. When my front was not cut it had equivalent of 2.5" bumps. All documented in my thread.
@Lumpskie on your next set of tires just go 37s & lower 2.5" on all corners. If you are set on True Tracs then Kanati has a tread called Trail Hog. It lloks just like a Goodyear TT.
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5” lift with 2.5” bump stops set to keep the tires from clashing with the fenders in the case of full up travel on both sides with the wheels pointed straight ahead, this requires the most bump drop. No fender cutting yet.
Maybe I can copy Brosky... I've got the extended (I believe 2") rear bump stops that came with my Slinky kit in the rear. A 1" front bumpstop extension could be the ticket. I'd need to find aftermarket wheels with exactly the same as stock in 17" to pull that off, right? (feel free to tell me to not clutter up your build)
I still had to cut front and back. It was done nice and clean welded back up painted inside and out. no one ever though it was cut unless I told them.
Did you just have to cut the front and back to flush? Or did you have to cut into the body to the point where you opened it up and weld a new patch panel on?
