Gurgle from FL Wheel (1 Viewer)

[Beto Cruiser]

Been chasing a strange gurgling-type sound from the front left wheel area. The sound would occur when turning left, but not when turning right. It would also happen while going forward from a stop, if it had been stopped for at least ~10 seconds.
Over the past two years I've replace all front end suspension components and replaced the wheel bearings twice because they kept coming loose (only on left side). I had a severely notched spline on the FL knuckle so I figured that was the cause of the loosening and that the gurgle was maybe a loose wheel bearing. So with the nice JPY exchange rate, I bit the bullet and ordered a new knuckle. Swapped it out and put in a fresh new bearing. The sound went away for a few days so I declared victory only to have the noise return a week later (after a ~2500 mile road trip). Now I am totally stumped and have no idea what to do.

What could be causing this noise?

For context, that video was recorded while taking a left turn from a stop.

As always, thanks for any help.

 

[SteveH]

This sounds dumb, but the noise on my 4runner that I was sure was an RF wheel bearing was an LR wheel bearing. After paying the Toyota tech to replace the wrong bearing, he put it on a lift, put the truck in 1st gear, and let all 4 wheels spin in 4WD. We found the noisy bearing that way. You might consider doing the same. Any shop with a frame lift might (might!) be willing to do this with you. You might also find on a lift that it's not a bearing and is something else.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

This sounds dumb, but the noise on my 4runner that I was sure was an RF wheel bearing was an LR wheel bearing. After paying the Toyota tech to replace the wrong bearing, he put it on a lift, put the truck in 1st gear, and let all 4 wheels spin in 4WD. We found the noisy bearing that way. You might consider doing the same. Any shop with a frame lift might (might!) be willing to do this with you. You might also find on a lift that it's not a bearing and is something else.

I tested the FR using the 12-6 o'clock wiggle test and it seems fine and always has (I check it frequently).

Everything online points to wheel bearing, but I keep changing it and it doesn't fix it. I follow the manual to the t. One notable exception though is that I normally just go with a torque setting when setting the bearings, but this time I went with a preload measurement (since I kept having failures using the torque wrench method). It look so much torque to get the proper preload. Like 40 lb-ft when the spec is way lower.

 

[nissanh]

Do you feel a play 12 and 6 O clock with wheel on?

I never used the fish hook method, but followed this video:




They do a torque correction so pay attention to it.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Do you feel a play 12 and 6 O clock with wheel on?

I never used the fish hook method, but followed this video:




They do a torque correction so pay attention to it.

Yep that's basically exactly what I did. Only difference is that on the 4 ft-lb step I checked the preload with a fish scale and found there was basically no preload, so I kept tightening until I got in the 9-15 lb preload range (which was around 40 ft-lb of torque on the nut). But the previous times I've done the bearings I just tightened to 4-5 ft-lbs regardless of preload and had the same failure.

And yes, play at 12-6 with wheel on on FL

 

[2001LC]

@Beto Cruiser I don't hear your sound. But typically we don't hear wheels bearings, unless supper loose and damaged. Bad bearings make a WA WA WA rotational sound. If very loose the hub will wobble, which may then rub wheel speed sensor and or caliper/pads with brake rotor/disk.

I'll assume: "severely notched spline on the FL knuckle" meaning threads on spindle, where wheel bearing 54mm adjusting & lock nuts thread on to were damaged! Which I see this happen from time to time, from reuse of lock washer.

Another issue I see, that loosen wheel bearings fast. Is the wheel hub oil seal in back of wheel hub, placed in backward. Backward is with metal hump of seal outward. The metal of seal hump wears on back of spindle, and thus loosen bearings fast.

Other sound in turns, may be: FDS CV going bad (usually a clicking), ball joints, TRE, bushing of control arms, bushing of shock, metal of seal on back of knuckle and or FDS outer seals metal bent or not properly seated then rubbing, axle brass bushing or needle bearing dry or damaged, spiders of intermediate shaft (steering shaft U-joints), stabilizer links or bushings, etc.

Hub oil seal in backwards, metal hump holds out hubs from seating all the way in. This gives a false pre-load. Metal wears and bearing loosen very fast.
This is seal is in backward:

Proper install:

I never used the fish hook method, but followed this video:




They do a torque correction so pay attention to it.

@nissanh The above video method for setting front wheel bearings, by torquing adjusting nut to 4ft-lbf. Is wrong for the 100 series. Also, in the video he states: Use a good wheel bearing grease, which is correct. But his choice of grease was with moly. Perhaps some newer moly is okay, IDK. But as a rule, we don't use moly grease in high speed application, as it creates and retains heat.

@nissanh using torque wrench, torquing to only 4ft-lbf. Will leave your wheels bearings to loose. The claw washer will very rapidly become scored from chatter, which loosen bearings more, which increase chatter on claw washer scoring it even more.

Many read the FSM incorrectly, I did at first. But once read in proper light. It is very clear: The goal is breakaway pre-load of 9.5 to 15 lb, not a specific torque.

After torquing adjusting nut t 43ft-lbf and spinning hub to settle bearings, and then backing off adjusting nut. The FSM states (d) torque to 38 to 74IN.lbf (~4ft-lbf). This is only a starting point. We then set breakaway pre-load with a pull scale. We continuing torquing until desired (e) pre-load (9.5 to 15lb) is reached. It would be nice, if FSM read; continue torquing adjusting nut, until desired pre-load reached. Than after placing on a new lock washer, we torque on locking nut to 47ft-lbf and recheck pre-load with pull scale.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

@2001LC
Here another video. It should be more clear now.

Also, I followed those steps (I used the FAQ post for the job).
As for the knuckle, yes I meant the spindle.
I installed the oil seal the proper way, as shown in your last pic of it.

One other nuance: while doing the bearings this last time, I noticed the hub had some raised areas where it meets the flange. There were a few small spots that were maybe 1/31-1/16" raised above the mating surface. Super strange, so I ground it flush before putting the gasket and flange on.
Here's a pic before grinding. Hard to see dimension but the areas circled are raised above the mating surface. Not sure how that could've happened.

Maybe is it a hub issue? I also have ABS/VSC/ATRAC lights that pop up pretty much anytime I'm stopped for a while. Happened after replacing the brake MC so I figured it was related. Never had an issue with it and got tired of trying to fix it. Also my FL brakes are worn after maybe 30k miles. OEM pads. Maybe normal. But FR are fine, so that's odd. All pointing to a hub issue?


It was much worse today. Kept gurgling/popping for a few miles, even while going straight and turning (both directions).

I rechecked 6-12 o'clock today on both wheels and they're very firm, no play.

 

[nissanh]

@nissanh The above video method for setting front wheel bearings, by torquing adjusting nut to 4ft-lbf. Is wrong for the 100 series. Also, in the video he states: Use a good wheel bearing grease, which is correct. But his choice of grease was with moly. Perhaps some newer moly is okay, IDK. But as a rule, we don't use moly grease in high speed application, as it creates and retains heat.

@nissanh using torque wrench, torquing to only 4ft-lbf. Will leave your wheels bearings to loose. The claw washer will very rapidly become scored from chatter, which loosen bearings more, which increase chatter on claw washer scoring it even more.

The video later do the correction: 47 ft-lb. (Yes, 4 ft-lb is incorrect). The correct number is 47 ft-lb. I never used the fish hook and followed these numbers on the LC 100 and Hilux LN 106. It's been few years and so far everything is good and no play.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

So. I replaced the hub, put in new bearings, and replaced the caliper too (it was seizing). Still getting the gurgle/popping noise. At this point everything has been replaced. I also checked every bolt/bushing/ball joint and everything is good. I'm at a loss. Everything in there is OEM except the CV axle. It's about 1 year old and is the Duralast brand from autozone. Could it be that?

 

[2000UZJ]

I'd imagine removing the front drive shaft and CV's, locking the Center Diff would allow for you to isolate a drive axle noise. This could be a CV bearing not round, and causing a little "bobble" of the axle in the cage. Once the CV is removed, I'd try to spin the wheel by hand and see if you can here anything. That sound would drive my nuts. I would have given up by now and sold it if I was in your shoes.