gulp what i feared most

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Apr 24, 2003
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is ignition cr@p.

now mine is spluttering under 2000rpms, dad says faulty plug leads, dirty points or maybe condenser... like i know what any of that is

does it sound reasonable?
 
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Apr 17, 2005
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Spluttering while it's a technical term for women it's not very clear what you mean to me. What do you mean, when you try to give it light gas, when you juice it, when you're at an extreem tilt, when you're going over rough stuff, sitting still or all of the above. Details are key What motor, ignition and things of that sort do you have for one? You have a boat load more posts then me so I may be out of line but I don't have a clear picture of the trouble based on what you said.
 
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yeah realise that... don't be fooled into thinkin my post count means i know anything

it's a 2f

it really struggles to rev (feels almost like a misfire, very similar to whenever i run it in water) when i sink the boot into it under about 2000 rpm, once it hits those revs it fires normally.

onroad only (hardly ever go under 2000rpm offroad)

umm does it slightly when sitting still, but seems to do it more under load
 
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I'm thinking along the lines of timing. Definately check your ignition points in the distributor and ensure leads are connected properly.
 
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Simple deals to mess with so I can't figure it to be a hard issue... I'm no pro here but I'd check the fuel filter first if you're saying you have the issues at higher rpms, or the fuel pump for that matter as I'm dealing with that now on my 65. Don't forget about the cap, rotor and so on. I guess my point is that if it were me, I'd sink $100 into stuff I'd do anyway if needed, cap, rotor, wires, plugs and a fuel filter then go from there as those are the cheapest fixes.... Not a pro on point and the older distros so I may be missing something there..
 

theo

 
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bad_religion_au said:
dad says faulty plug leads, dirty points or maybe condenser... like i know what any of that is

does it sound reasonable?
Listen to the old man. You might learn sumpin you pup. :D

Plug leads = spark plug wires. I've replaced lots of sets of plug wires and almost never get better performance. Almost. (These wires have a specified resistance that you can measure, but they can pass the test and still not work in the truck.)

Points = the spring inside the distributor with contacts that open and close 6 times per revolution. It's a switch that turns the spark on and off at the right time. Very common cause for misfire and too easy to replace.

Condenser = small cylinder inside the distributor that "absorbs" voltage spikes from the coil that would otherwise burn the points. Always replace the condensor when you change the points.

Replace the cap and rotor too. Like sonoranfun says, do the easy stuff and see how you go.

ps - dad is going to say "File the points, mate, and you're good as gold." I'm with him. Great place to start, and the price is right..
 
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Oct 19, 2004
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If this just started, I would deffinitely start with the plugs. Clean them or dont be cheap and just replace them. Same with the wires, cap and rotor. If you've pulled the wires, and now its happening, one of the wires was probably wrecked when it got pulled. Seems to happen to me every time I pull the wires on my Chevy, that one of them rips. Then start mucking with mechanicals like timing.
I chased down ignition problems for a long long time on my old willy's 2A I was restoring. I replaced or rebuilt just about everything but the plug wires in the ignition system before finally taking it to a mechanic. He replaced the coil wire and it ran like a champ... live and learn...

-Dustin
 
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just started, basically a day worth of mud and creek crossings (yeah i know) and it's started.

how did you know he would say "file the points" :)

man i am scared of ignition... too fiddly for me... hopefully i'm not hung over sat and i'll play with it... like i know anything about gapping plugs and stuff
 

honk

 
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Open the distributor cap and look (gaze) into the cap itself. Notice the small signs of moisture? Remove those with compressed air or WD40 (or some other moisture displacer). If you have compressed air pull the rotor off, take out the little brass cover, and chase out the moisture under there as well. Make very sure that it's a dried out in there.

Go on your way.

If the insulation of the sparkplug and coil wires has broken down it's often possible to see very small sparks jumping from one to another if you watch your engine running in pitch darkness. If you see ANY sparks that way change all of the plug wires (one at a time).
 
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cool thanks for the hints... will get onto it on the weekend

gotta figure out how to keep the engine running while it'l sit on my hill (e brake don't work
 
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Afton VA
Also check your carburetor float. You should be able to look at the float window and see if it is OK. Tap gently on the top of the float bowl and see if there is any improvement.

Good luck
 
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Also check your coil...it's easy if you have a VOM.

Primary resistance:
without resistor=2.6-4.0 ohms
with resistor=1.3-1.6 ohms
(make measurement between the two low tension connections)

Secondary resistance:
without resistor=6.0-9.0 ohms
with resistor=9.5-14.5 ohms
(make measurement between the high tension and one of the low tension connections)

I'd make the check on a hot coil if you can. If they're going to fail they usually do when they're hot.
 
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