GRRRRR!! Truck running like poop!! (2 Viewers)

[M-80]

I am giving up. I thought I could fix this problem by searching but I have had no luck. There are lots of good ideas but nothing worked.

Here's the scoop. My truck started running poorly Saturday. Under a load it would spit and sputter. Once it evened out it ran very well. We have changed out plugs, (need to order wires, cap, and rotor), changed out fuel filter and inlet sock. We cleaned the MAF and verified that the flap is working correctly. We also temporarily repaired the air intake hose with really pretty shiny black tape. We had a code 25 Sat, but it went away. The code that showed up today was a 31 (volume air flow). I have checked out wiring to make sure that nothing is shorting out. We seafoamed the intake. Now the truck idles really good but as soon as you put it in gear, it spits and sputters. You cannot get the RPMs over 1500. The CEL will not clear.

I am open to any suggestions. I am giving up for the night. This is the family hauler so we really need it running. I would hate for my kids to be cruiser popcicles but if I don't get the 80 running really fast then they will have to ride in the 40, and it has no top. But that is another story.

Thanks in advance.

Marde

 

[cruiserdan]

How about the engine wiring harness where it passes by the EGR pipe?

You "taped" the air intake hose then? If that is cracked you need a new one.

 

[M-80]

How about the engine wiring harness where it passes by the EGR pipe?

You "taped" the air intake hose then? If that is cracked you need a new one.

I just checked this, as well as I could in the dark, anyways. The wiring looks good and everything is still connected. I will double check all this in the morning.

The air intake hose is on my list of stuff to get as soon as I get the funds. I will be calling you with an order soon.

 

[M-80]

I don't understand why it will run smooth at a high idle in park or neutral, and then bog down when it is put into gear. If someone were to walk up to it when it was idling in park, they would think it was a smooth running vehicle. I guess I need to research how the sensors work, and how one affects the next, etc.

 

[landtank]

when you rev the engine it torques the motor which opens that crack in the hose up. I'd fix what you already know to be bad and then take it from there.

 

[tevogel]

hi

when you rev the engine it torques the motor which opens that crack in the hose up. I'd fix what you already know to be bad and then take it from there.

i agree,most likely the air intake hose.then try plugs,rotor,cap,wires.

 

[M-80]

Now that I am awake, I can see I need to ammend this some. When in park, I can rev the engine up to 3000+ and it runs very smoothly. When I put the dadgum thing into gear, and try to rev it up while holding my foot firmly on the brake, it will bog down and not get over 1500. It sounds and runs like poop when in gear.

 

[M-80]

Now, does anyone know if an air intake hose from a 01 Tundra or an 03 Sequoia would fit on my truck. I have access to these right now.

 

[landtank]

Now, does anyone know if an air intake hose from a 01 Tundra or an 03 Sequoia would fit on my truck. I have access to these right now.

The engine doesn't torque much when not under a load. What's the issue with getting the correct part? I'd suspect the dealer could have one by tomorrow.

 

[sea2skydad]

Does it crap out in reverse? If not then look to your wiring loom. With the engine running grab the whole bundle where it runs by the head and push it back and forth. If anything changes you' ve found your problem.

 

[concretejungle]

I'm thinking this sounds like a wiring issue also. I agree though that he needs to replace the intake hose. BUt, when he puts the truck in gear, that alone torques the motor a little and then giving it gas while on the brake would torque it even more. I'd say double check all the wiring on the wiring loom again.

If i remember correctly, i think T Y L E R actually had similar problems. When he would gas it through an intersection it would cut off on him, or sputter. I think he said it turned out to be wiring that was grounding out when the motor torqued.

 

[wob]

Does it crap out in reverse? If not then look to your wiring loom. With the engine running grab the whole bundle where it runs by the head and push it back and forth. If anything changes you' ve found your problem.

Ding Ding Ding!

We have a winner!

Been there, done that. It revs fine in reverse and neutral, but dies in forward gear. I was almost convinced to buy a new ecu before me and my mechanic figured it out.

 

[M-80]

Good ideas. It doesn't run good in any gear.

On a positive note, I took a nap and when I woke up my truck was gone. My husband decided he could spend some time on my 80 since I help him all the time on his 40. He must of made some progress.

By the way, I am a cruiser chick. And to top it all off, I love to off road, work on trucks, and I have a good job. Every cruiser guy's dream woman, right?

Marde

 

[concretejungle]

 

[decorated1]

I am giving up. I thought I could fix this problem by searching but I have had no luck. There are lots of good ideas but nothing worked.

Here's the scoop. My truck started running poorly Saturday. Under a load it would spit and sputter. Once it evened out it ran very well. We have changed out plugs, (need to order wires, cap, and rotor), changed out fuel filter and inlet sock. We cleaned the MAF and verified that the flap is working correctly. We also temporarily repaired the air intake hose with really pretty shiny black tape. We had a code 25 Sat, but it went away. The code that showed up today was a 31 (volume air flow). I have checked out wiring to make sure that nothing is shorting out. We seafoamed the intake. Now the truck idles really good but as soon as you put it in gear, it spits and sputters. You cannot get the RPMs over 1500. The CEL will not clear.

I am open to any suggestions. I am giving up for the night. This is the family hauler so we really need it running. I would hate for my kids to be cruiser popcicles but if I don't get the 80 running really fast then they will have to ride in the 40, and it has no top. But that is another story.

Thanks in advance.

Marde

Had the same problems or symptoms couple of months back, checked the all the plugs, #2 wasn't burning gas, replaced plugs and wires still bogs down when placed or loaded up on drive, but was running smooth on park or neutral, checked plugs again #2 was till fouling, turned out to be an injector, bad gas that did it. my two cents.

 

[Beowulf]

Every cruiser guy's dream woman, right?

Marde,

You didn't say what model year and you didn't say what the MIL code is.

Come back with that information and we might be able to diagnose the problem. The other guesses are good possibilities but that code would sure help.

-B-

 

[M-80]

Sorry. It is a 94.

About the MIL: is this the code you get for the CEL? If so, then I have gained another one as of today. I now have a 24 and a 31. 24 is air intake temperature and 31 is volume air flow. Are these two sensors together on a 94?

Thanks for your help.

Marde

 

[Beowulf]

Offhand, I would say both of those codes point to the big hose that goes between your air filter and the intake. Since you already know it has cracks and you tried to seal them, it would be best to replace it with a new one and go from there.

-B-

 

[M-80]

Parts are ordered.

Man, those dogs are eating alot better than me tonight.

Dan, it was a pleasure talking to you. It was even nicer finding that you had all my parts in stock, and way cheaper than the local stealerships.

Hopefully I will be able to close this saga when my little brown box gets here from UPS.

Marde

 

[M-80]

Okay, back to the top with this one.

We have replaced the air intake hoses, pcv valve and hoses, cap, rotor, plugs and wires from Dan and this silly thing is still running like poop!!!!

The MIL code is a 31--mass air flow. Could this be bad and be causing my problems? Should I replace it?

We took it to a mechanic and looked at the truck and said he really couldn't see anything that could cause this problem. He suggested going to the dealership and having them pull the codes. We then showed him the paper clip method.

My next question: is the dealership able to pinpoint better with their reader or are they going to get the same thing that I do? I don't want to waste money that could go to parts.

I appreciate everyone help.