Groove on front axle ball, is it normal? KZJ78 (1 Viewer)

[graysworld]

I am renovating my front hubs and having stripped everything down, the ball on the end of the axle (I am not sure what it's called) where the swivel fits has a groove in it that goes around the circumference. Is this normal on Toyotas? I know that Landrovers are totally smooth. Also landrover ones bolt to the axle housing and are a replaceable part. Do I need to fill the groove with plastic metal? I am a bit baffled as I have seen a view rebuild videos and most have a similar groove and are also not completly smooth. I would have thought that if it wasn't smooth it would wear out the wiper seal quite quickly? I realise that there is no oil and only grease so it should not leak, but what about water ingress? Also I have only one shim at the bottom. I know the shims are there to adjust preload on the swivel bearings. So is it normal to have no shim on one side? Seems strange to me. All the videos I have seen have at least one shim top and bottom.

Any advice appreciated.
Regards Graeme

 

[oldblue]

Landrover hub seals need to be oil tight, where as Cruiser hub CVs use grease, the only time you would get oil leaking out of the ball seal is if the outer axle seal was stuffed. re water, if you are submerged in water for to long and suspect there is water in the CVs, unbolt the bottom of the wiper seal and prize it out a we bit.

 

[graysworld]

Thanks for the reply. would you say that I don't need to worry about the grooves? Regards Graeme

 

[oldblue]

If it was my truck ,I would just lightly grease them and fit new swivel seals. Renew the outer axle tube seals too.

 

[graysworld]

I was concerned that the groove would wear out the new seals prematurely. Do you think it will be okay then? Is that kind of wear normal for these trucks?

Graeme

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

That's just from the wiper felts holding water against the ball and rusting it. Don't worry about it. You could paint the ball before putting everything together to help prevent corrosion again. Also, soak the felts in oil before assembling everything and they won't hold water anymore. Most balls have this sort of corrosion and it's not a big deal. With yours the owner must have left the steering in the same spot every time they parked so it rusted just the one ring.

Here are some pictures of mine when I did it recently: LJ78 Elec to Manual Hub

 

[graysworld]

Thanks for the replies...very reassuring. Good photos of your manual hub conversion. I am doing this as well. Have you used the original wheel bearing hub? I read somewhere that they were too short for the manual free wheel hubs and therefore needed a spacer? I can machine a spacer but if I don't need to it would save me some extra work. Anymore advice would be great. I think I will metal fill the balls and paint them as you suggest and the keep them well oiled.

Graeme

 

[iwashmycar]

That's just from the wiper felts holding water against the ball and rusting it. Don't worry about it. You could paint the ball before putting everything together to help prevent corrosion again. Also, soak the felts in oil before assembling everything and they won't hold water anymore. Most balls have this sort of corrosion and it's not a big deal. With yours the owner must have left the steering in the same spot every time they parked so it rusted just the one ring.

Here are some pictures of mine when I did it recently: LJ78 Elec to Manual Hub

Thanks for the replies...very reassuring. Good photos of your manual hub conversion. I am doing this as well. Have you used the original wheel bearing hub? I read somewhere that they were too short for the manual free wheel hubs and therefore needed a spacer? I can machine a spacer but if I don't need to it would save me some extra work. Anymore advice would be great. I think I will metal fill the balls and paint them as you suggest and the keep them well oiled.

Graeme

Quoting will likely give a notification just in case GTS doesnt happen back in here.

 

[oldblue]

If you retain the original hubs and stubs and fit manual locking hubs then you need a 13mm spacer.
The spacer is not required if you change over to none electric hub and stub parts.

 

[graysworld]

Thanks I am fitting new stubs and new CVs (Birfield) as they are worn but can't find any Hilux hubs so will have to machine spacers . Thanks for the info on the size.

Graeme

 

[oldblue]

Flix me an email and I'll send you the working measurements for the spacer

 

[graysworld]

Email sent.

Thanks Graeme

 

[graysworld]

I have finally finished rebuilding my front hubs and converting from electric locking hubs to manual ones. Thanks to everyone for the advice. I thought I would share what I did to overcome the fact that the manual wheel hubs i.e. the part the wheel bolts to and houses the bearings are longer on the manual than the electric ones. The choices are sourcing second-hand Hilux ones which I could not find, or new ones are available for £84 each at the time of writing on eBay.

I bought new stub axles and cv joints from Milner 4x4. They were very helpful cross-referencing parts. I needed at least one new stub axle as the bearing had been slipping and had knackered the old one. I decided to replace the CV’s as they did not look too good and while it was all apart there was no point in not. I used the own brand stuff from Milner with an assurance from them that it was okay…time will tell but I could not afford the top of the range stuff and I am not going to be extreme off roading. Problems I had to get over were mainly the hub being too short by 14mm. An engineer friend took the old electric hubs cut them and machined spacers from them. Photo below. He also made me some extra studs as the electric hub has 4 and the manual has 6. The extra holes in the hub were filled with four turned down Allen bolts these then acted as locating pins. The next problem is blocking the hole where the cable for the electric hub goes. I used the original bung, removed the cable and filled with silicone gasket maker. Next was the new wheel bearing nuts and tab washer would not fit as the bearings are effectively further in the hub. The old bearing nut and locking washer with countersink Torx screws can be used. The original hub nut has a ‘built in’ spacer. I think this is a better system for locking the nut in place. I removed the electrical contact ring from the outside of the lock nut.

I have also replaced swivel bearings and seals. There was quite a groove worn in the balls on the ends of the axle casing. I cleaned the grooves filled with JB Weld and sanded them down and painted them.

New brake discs (rotors) and pads and put new pistons and seals in the callipers and replaced all the flexible brake hoses. So, all in all a good job done. Unfortunately, the original rumble that I thought was the wheel bearings is still there! Time for Another post!

So, more questions in another post thanks for the help and advice. Graeme