Grey Gardens FJ62LG-PNEA: An idiots guide to resurrecting a high mileage FJ62 (12 Viewers)

[HemiAlex]

Final parts are on their way (hopefully).

Bilstein Shocks:
24-010047
24-011327

Front wheel studs for hub rebuild. 3 were cross threaded and I consider it a huge safety issue to replace them every 300,000 miles.

90942-02053 (12)

Front sway bar end link rebuild parts (I couldn't bring myself to spend $15 on the aftermarket, I have a huge problem...) This will cover the front end stabilizer end links for a 60 and 62.

01

48817F

94183-60800

02

08.1987 - 01.1990

NUT (FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)

FJ62

01

48817A

90948-02032

08

08.1987 - 01.1990

RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.1 (FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)

FJ62

01

48817

48817-30010

08

08.1987 - 01.1990

CUSHION, FRONT STABILIZER

FJ62

01

48817B

90948-02015

02

08.1987 - 01.1990

RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.2 (FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)

FJ62

01

48817C

90387-09006

02

08.1987 - 01.1990

COLLAR (FOR STABILIZER BAR)

FJ62

01

48815

48815-20060

02

08.1987 - 01.1990

BUSH, FRONT STABILIZER BAR, NO.1

FJ62

Std Part

01

90101-08055 Bolt x2

Next up I'll get a set of OEM rotors and call the front end parts purchases done.

 

[HemiAlex]

Very sweet deal on Rotors from parts.gatewaytoyota.com

Very fair pricing when I used "Freeship".

 

[HemiAlex]

Heck, while I'm there might as well throw in a Tie Rod Kit from Georg.

By the time this thing leaves the lift, it will be mostly done!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Alex , one of these unicorns NOS is on its way to you .................

 

[samc2447]

Waiting….

 

[cruisermatt]

you putting one of these bad boys in there while you're at it?

Sumo Gear 10% Overdrive High Range Gears - Fits 1986 & Newer 38mm Split T-Case

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

 

[HemiAlex]

you putting one of these bad boys in there while you're at it?

Sumo Gear 10% Overdrive High Range Gears - Fits 1986 & Newer 38mm Split T-Case

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

No, just the spline fixer gear.

This is going to stay all stock. I’m not even putting the front DS in yet. This one is going to be pure soccer mom.

 

[HemiAlex]

More odds and ends. Can’t wait to drive this race tractor.

 

[CruiserTrash]

More odds and ends. Can’t wait to drive this race tractor.

View attachment 3009483

View attachment 3009484

View attachment 3009485

View attachment 3009486

@HemiAlex Mamabear-related tangent question: Do you know offhand the OEM part numbers for the longer brake lines for the front and rear? I read about it a long time ago on here and can't find the info again. Something about using a rear soft line on the front, and then either an 80 Series part or a clutch soft line for the rear? These are for the central lines that drop down from higher up to the axle. Obviously OEM length on the two front soft lines at the knuckles is no issue, and the hard lines run straight to the rear on left and right.

I want to replace all of the soft lines on Matilda before SAS. because, you know, stopping is good on steep inclines.

 

[4Cruisers]

@HemiAlex Mamabear-related tangent question: Do you know offhand the OEM part numbers for the longer brake lines for the front and rear? I read about it a long time ago on here and can't find the info again. Something about using a rear soft line on the front, and then either an 80 Series part or a clutch soft line for the rear? These are for the central lines that drop down from higher up to the axle. Obviously OEM length on the two front soft lines at the knuckles is no issue, and the hard lines run straight to the rear on left and right.

I want to replace all of the soft lines on Matilda before SAS. because, you know, stopping is good on steep inclines.

@Godwin has posted on this topic, which I followed pretty much for my '86 FJ60 build. The rear brake line goes to the front, and a rear brake line from another Toyota model goes on the back. A search should help.

 

[HemiAlex]

I used these in the 60. Way better than original rubber brake lines.

 

[Godwin]

@HemiAlex Mamabear-related tangent question: Do you know offhand the OEM part numbers for the longer brake lines for the front and rear? I read about it a long time ago on here and can't find the info again. Something about using a rear soft line on the front, and then either an 80 Series part or a clutch soft line for the rear? These are for the central lines that drop down from higher up to the axle. Obviously OEM length on the two front soft lines at the knuckles is no issue, and the hard lines run straight to the rear on left and right.

I want to replace all of the soft lines on Matilda before SAS. because, you know, stopping is good on steep inclines.

Brake line info somewhere in here 80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rear-axle-with-front-axle-tundra-brake-mod.1170432/

 

[CruiserTrash]

@Godwin @4Cruisers Thanks. I’ve searched and couldn’t find my way back to what I read a couple years ago. I’ll dig into Godwin’s thread.

 

[HemiAlex]

Basically no progress while I wait for parts.

Local dealer is slow getting all the odds and ends I need.

Got Georg to send me the right stuff. In Georg we trust.

 

[HemiAlex]

All hail.

4 eyes will be rolling soon. The stuff is in the mail.

 

[HemiAlex]

It’s done and I think it’s right.

To say that I’m proud is an understatement.

Huge thanks to @orangefj45 @samc2447 and @bottombracket

 

[cruisermatt]

Rear output housing is one bolt position off (needs to turn 60-degrees counter clockwise).
You’ll see the tab that lines up

 

[HemiAlex]

I appreciate your eyes!

 

[orangefj45]

Rear output housing is one bolt position off (needs to turn 60-degrees counter clockwise).
You’ll see the tab that lines up

I e seen multiple cases built that way; typically an attempt to keep the Speedo cable up and out of harms way. And if the inner speedo seal leaks, the oil will “drain” back into the Tcase.

I build them to factory specs, but I don’t see a need to pull the case back apart to fix this non-issue.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[cruisermatt]

More important then the rear output housing is the front and rear output flanges being swapped. I think the seal ID’s are different or the dust shield rubs the front case half or something like that