Builds Greetings from Seattle...Fixing up "Blue Guy" (1 Viewer)

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Added a sweet sticker! Tweakers be warned! :hillbilly:
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Alright! Got the rear door back together. All new rubber, cleaned up motor and greased gears. I put rust converter on a few spots and coated them and inside seams in Fluid Film. :)
Even though its still slow... it goes up and down on its own! Huge huge improvement seeing as I could hang on the window before and it still wouldn't want to go down.


But I noticed the window was slower with the master switch actuating it vs the door switch. So I turned my attention to my original switch. I had a new one on the shelf for years but for some reason I was putting it off. Today was the day! New switch, cleaned the contacts on the door harness and installed a new handle bezel. :D The little details add up.
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Took apart the old switch to peek inside. The old contacts were definitely dirty! I am sure if I cleaned them up it would work a lot better. I'll keep it as a spare I suppose. Still life potential in it after a cleaning. :)
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A brass wheel on a Dremel works well for cleaning up those contacts without scoring them like a steel wheel would. It's not a super long term fix and not as good of quality as a brand new switch, but does provide a vast improvement if you're in a pinch but have time to take apart the switch. Keeping an old cleaned up switch as a spare is definitely a good idea.

A while back I experimented with putting a tiny dot of conductive grease on the contacts but that was a failure. Definitely want to keep them dry but a tiny spot of lithium grease where the white pushrods sit in the rockers is a good idea.

How bad was the window motor when you first pulled it apart? Was it a "oh yeah this definitely needs it" kinda deal?
 
A brass wheel on a Dremel works well for cleaning up those contacts without scoring them like a steel wheel would. It's not a super long term fix and not as good of quality as a brand new switch, but does provide a vast improvement if you're in a pinch but have time to take apart the switch. Keeping an old cleaned up switch as a spare is definitely a good idea.

A while back I experimented with putting a tiny dot of conductive grease on the contacts but that was a failure. Definitely want to keep them dry but a tiny spot of lithium grease where the white pushrods sit in the rockers is a good idea.

How bad was the window motor when you first pulled it apart? Was it a "oh yeah this definitely needs it" kinda deal?
No, the motor was pretty clean inside! But I wanted to check and I refreshed the lube inside. Would I do it again?…. Probably not. I think the bigger issues with these things are the relays you replace, master switches and power flow (good grounding).
 
No, the motor was pretty clean inside! But I wanted to check and I refreshed the lube inside. Would I do it again?…. Probably not. I think the bigger issues with these things are the relays you replace, master switches and power flow (good grounding).
For curiosity, have you done anything with the factory splices in the doors? I'm in the process of fixing those in my doors after having amazing success with the driver's door. All I did was undo the electrical tape from the crimped splice, flux it and flood it with solder, then seal it with adhesive lined shrink wrap. Passenger door is in progress now and that's by far my worst window (with the engine spun up and in warm temps it's about 5 seconds down and 6 seconds up. Far worse when it's not optimal conditions or under battery power). I'm hoping to see some improvement once I finish that door.
 
For curiosity, have you done anything with the factory splices in the doors? I'm in the process of fixing those in my doors after having amazing success with the driver's door. All I did was undo the electrical tape from the crimped splice, flux it and flood it with solder, then seal it with adhesive lined shrink wrap. Passenger door is in progress now and that's by far my worst window (with the engine spun up and in warm temps it's about 5 seconds down and 6 seconds up. Far worse when it's not optimal conditions or under battery power). I'm hoping to see some improvement once I finish that door.
Haven’t messed with those but I’m not surprised to hear there is room for improvement! :D While the wiring is high quality, it’s all getting long in the tooth now. now I want to go unwrap and check mine.
 
Haven’t messed with those but I’m not surprised to hear there is room for improvement! :D While the wiring is high quality, it’s all getting long in the tooth now. now I want to go unwrap and check mine.
I'll be posting a thread about my door wiring cleanup with pics once the passenger door is done. There are four splices in the driver's door that I beefed up. Didn't see any visual indication of any corrosion, but there was a definite improvement after soldering. I didn't get any pictures, so had planned to do the ones in the passenger door, but as it turns out there are no splices inside the passenger door! However, the leads going from the switch to the motor did have visible corrosion in the crimps for the terminals themselves, so I cleaned and soldered those. It's not back together yet (got rained out, joy of joys) but my fingers are crossed that there will be improvement once it is. I'm beginning to think that I should attack the terminals on any high load carrying wire I can access, which would be a bit of an undertaking, but certainly not impossible. Removing terminals from connectors fortunately is easy since I got the "prison shank" from @NLXTACY (shameless promotion because it works so damn well).
 
I'll be posting a thread about my door wiring cleanup with pics once the passenger door is done. There are four splices in the driver's door that I beefed up. Didn't see any visual indication of any corrosion, but there was a definite improvement after soldering. I didn't get any pictures, so had planned to do the ones in the passenger door, but as it turns out there are no splices inside the passenger door! However, the leads going from the switch to the motor did have visible corrosion in the crimps for the terminals themselves, so I cleaned and soldered those. It's not back together yet (got rained out, joy of joys) but my fingers are crossed that there will be improvement once it is. I'm beginning to think that I should attack the terminals on any high load carrying wire I can access, which would be a bit of an undertaking, but certainly not impossible. Removing terminals from connectors fortunately is easy since I got the "prison shank" from @NLXTACY (shameless promotion because it works so damn well).
Totally love that tool. I bought one too. :) Looking forward to your thread!
 
It’s been too long. Topping off the battery and getting it out of the garage tomorrow. :)
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Decals from @63FST came! Excited to refresh the rear heater switch. :steer:
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Nothing new, just have been loving this old FJ62. Still need to restore the rear heater switch. Snapped this pic of the tach while on a errand the other day. I love how beat up the tach is. Its seen things, been on adventures and hopefully many many more. :steer:
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Ordered a pair of those sweet double DIN radio brackets from @ChaserFJ60 . What double DINs are people running and love? Looking for recommendations. :)
 
Ordered a pair of those sweet double DIN radio brackets from @ChaserFJ60 . What double DINs are people running and love? Looking for recommendations. :)
I know over in the 80 forum we really like our Sony XAV-AX100 or Sony XAV-AX1000 if you're looking for a price-sensitive high-quality CarPlay double-DIN unit with a proper volume knob. @KeilOver and I were talking about this recently. I've got one in Yoshi if you want to take a look sometime, I've had it in for six months now and it's serving me well.

Only minor complaint is that glare can be an issue, it doesn't get as bright as modern OEM CarPlay systems I've seen. And it doesn't look vintage at all if that's desired for Blue Guy.
 
I know over in the 80 forum we really like our Sony XAV-AX100 or Sony XAV-AX1000 if you're looking for a price-sensitive high-quality CarPlay double-DIN unit with a proper volume knob. @KeilOver and I were talking about this recently. I've got one in Yoshi if you want to take a look sometime, I've had it in for six months now and it's serving me well.

Only minor complaint is that glare can be an issue, it doesn't get as bright as modern OEM CarPlay systems I've seen. And it doesn't look vintage at all if that's desired for Blue Guy.
Thanks! I'll go check that out. I think the double DIN screens actually look good in a 62. Since they were made in the late 80s (digital revolution and expansion of personal computers), I feel their design is amenable to some increased digital presence. :)
 
Chase, I ran a Sony XAV-AX210SXM in my 80 series, and was pretty happy with both the stock-ish look, and the features. Wired carplay/android auto, satellite radio, and decent audio functions. Backlighting is color and brightness adjustable to match your stock bulbs. And most importantly, a hardware volume knob!

Andrew
 
Chase, I ran a Sony XAV-AX210SXM in my 80 series, and was pretty happy with both the stock-ish look, and the features. Wired carplay/android auto, satellite radio, and decent audio functions. Backlighting is color and brightness adjustable to match your stock bulbs. And most importantly, a hardware volume knob!

Andrew
Nice another Sony vote. Its a bummer the newer models got rid of the volume dial.
 
This was a fun read and informative! Love the truck! Makes me want to keep my fj62! Haha
Thanks! They are great trucks. You are selling yours?
 

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