greasing yokes and joints? (1 Viewer)

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i’ve been reading up on this.
is there a single grease i can confidently use on both?
ujoints get grease until the old stuff is visibly replaced?
on the yokes - can you fill until it is overfilled then leave the fittings unscrewed and drive it for a week and then put them back it in. this way you are sure to grease the splines?!
also i guess if you are under there it is just a little more work to take it all apart and clean it up?
THANKS
 
i’ve been reading up on this.
is there a single grease i can confidently use on both?
ujoints get grease until the old stuff is visibly replaced?
on the yokes - can you fill until it is overfilled then leave the fittings unscrewed and drive it for a week and then put them back it in. this way you are sure to grease the splines?!
also i guess if you are under there it is just a little more work to take it all apart and clean it up?
THANKS
edit: for #1 i found it. looks like AMSOIL GPTR2 has been recommended before.
 
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The old grease is forced out past the seals when you pump in the new grease, no need to take them apart unless you are replacing them. I usually grease mine a few times a year.
 
The old grease is forced out past the seals when you pump in the new grease, no need to take them apart unless you are replacing them. I usually grease mine a few times a year.
thanks zach. i had hard boiled eggs for breakfast this morning and i see i originally titled the thread “greasing yolks and joints”. lol. so i corrected it...
 
I use Red N Tacky.

The splines get a couple pumps, just till I see them move.
The U-joints get grease till I see new red grease ooze out of the seals.
Clean it up? o_O No, I let it spin off into the undercarriage. Its part of the ACIS.
hey RM.
does this look right? i have one of those little hand held deals but the tube is so dirty i can't verify the size.
also do you know off hand how much i should get?
lastly, what do you use on the knuckles please?
THANKS
Screen Shot 2020-05-19 at 2.32.01 PM.png
 
That's the stuff. I use the 14oz tubes because that's the size grease gun I have. I keep a spare tube on the shelf. Might go through one a year, that grease is super versatile, is gets used on the law mower, (any place that has a zerk fitting) and any other thing around the shop that needs a shot of grease.
For knuckles I use a moly fortified grease from a tub, I'll look tonight when I get home. It's either Valvoline or STP.
I pack a 35CC flavor injector syringe, purchased at the grocery store, and inject it into the top of the knuckles through the inspection port.
I have been giving it 70 CC per 7500 miles. But I might start slowing that down. When I bought the rig only the bottoms of the knuckles had any grease on them, now that I've been adding grease every 7500 miles the entire knuckle ball is greasy. So I might back that off to 35CC next round. I'll look at the Bean's balls, they'll tell me what it needs.
Remember, lube your shaft, grease your balls and check your nuts; Never gets old!🙂
 
That's the stuff. I use the 14oz tubes because that's the size grease gun I have. I keep a spare tube on the shelf. Might go through one a year, that grease is super versatile, is gets used on the law mower, (any place that has a zerk fitting) and any other thing around the shop that needs a shot of grease.
For knuckles I use a moly fortified grease from a tub, I'll look tonight when I get home. It's either Valvoline or STP.
I pack a 35CC flavor injector syringe, purchased at the grocery store, and inject it into the top of the knuckles through the inspection port.
I have been giving it 70 CC per 7500 miles. But I might start slowing that down. When I bought the rig only the bottoms of the knuckles had any grease on them, now that I've been adding grease every 7500 miles the entire knuckle ball is greasy. So I might back that off to 35CC next round. I'll look at the Bean's balls, they'll tell me what it needs.
Remember, lube your shaft, grease your balls and check your nuts; Never gets old!🙂

OK. thanks. this helps a lot. somehow with life and everything else it takes awhile to get up to speed on all this.

also after you do it all one time you know what you need i guess.

so pretty much i just need the right sized lucas grease and i guess i will pickup whatever you are running for the knuckles if you get a chance to check.

so does this look right for the knuckles? and it is 4X on the knuckles with the syringe?

 
For the knuckles the amount of grease you add will depend on how much grease is in there now. A zip tie can be used as a dipstick to check the current level.

When using a syringe pull the plunger out, hand pack the syringe with grease, and then put the plunger back in, its too thick to suck the grease in by pulling the plunger.

Also clean the knuckle off before opening it up to add grease so dirt doesn't fall in.

1589924847206.png
 
For the knuckles the amount of grease you add will depend on how much grease is in there now. A zip tie can be used as a dipstick to check the current level.

When using a syringe pull the plunger out, hand pack the syringe with grease, and then put the plunger back in, its too thick to suck the grease in by pulling the plunger.

Also clean the knuckle off before opening it up to add grease so dirt doesn't fall in.

View attachment 2312102

man. thanks. that's a ton of help.

so just on the level - if i dip a zip tie in straight down what am i looking for? or what is the level i am trying to achieve?

i will go in and read the manual on all this but somehow having a visual and getting the parts in is kind of half the battle over here. plus it makes reading the manual a breeze which is GREAT.
 
There's a whole thread on it here, the consensus is about 3/4 full:

How Much Grease in Steering Knuckle

Also I'd recommend removing the breather valve and installing a breather hose up into the engine compartment. Clogged factory breathers are bad news and can cause seal failures and leaks.
 
There's a whole thread on it here, the consensus is about 3/4 full:

How Much Grease in Steering Knuckle

Also I'd recommend removing the breather valve and installing a breather hose up into the engine compartment. Clogged factory breathers are bad news and can cause seal failures and leaks.

THANKS
 
Its STP Moly EP.

1589932324660.png


Yes measure your grease level, before simply injecting more. Its possible to over fill the ball. Like I said, mine give me an indication by looking at the outside of the ball. Its wet all the way up the curve now, so 'll be putting less grease in next oil change.
If you don't feel like extending your breather hoses, you should at least pull the hose off the axel and give the hose a shot of air to make sure its clear. Run a wire into the tube on the axel to make sure it's clear too.
 
Its STP Moly EP.

View attachment 2312237

Yes measure your grease level, before simply injecting more. Its possible to over fill the ball. Like I said, mine give me an indication by looking at the outside of the ball. Its wet all the way up the curve now, so 'll be putting less grease in next oil change.
If you don't feel like extending your breather hoses, you should at least pull the hose off the axel and give the hose a shot of air to make sure its clear. Run a wire into the tube on the axel to make sure it's clear too.

THANKS.

green arrow is the breather hose that needs to be clear?

where is the tube on the axle? i guess it is where the tube connects from the birfield to the axle?

also what is the blue arrow please?
1589924847206.png
 
Nope, the blue arrow is pointing to the ABS sensor plug. The Red Green arrow is pointing to the ABS wire.
The breather hose is further toward the center of the truck on the other side of the spring mount next to the bake line attachment.
 
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Nope, the blue arrow is pointing to the ABS sensor plug. The Red Green arrow is pointing to the ABS wire.
The breather hose is further toward the center of the truck on the other side of the spring mount next to the bake line attachment.
OK. thanks i need to go looking for it. APPRECIATE IT.
 

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