Greasing WRONG Orientation (1 Viewer)

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Chalk wipes off to easily. I use punch when I can on parts. Stuff like front drive shafts (AKA CVs) I use a Dremel and grind a marks.

If you didn't have a vibration issue at speed of up to 70 MPH, just reinstall. You can worry about balance later if becomes issue..
 
I also can use a chalk

If simply removing and reinstalling, but if he takes it to a driveline shop the marks will rub off or get painted over- My preference is a dremmel to make my marks.
 
Sucks but drop it grease it then reinstall if in a rush. At least it's been changed before?
 
Had you already touched the zerk with anything before taking the photos?

It really looks like something contacted it....and thus turned it...maybe road debris, a stick, ect? My thinking is if something did somehow turn it maybe it could be turned back?

However, if you did those marks trying to lube it, disregard that thought
 
This is on my to do maintenance list, and sorry to hijack, but what kind of grease do I use for these zeros? I think there's 3 zerks down there right?
 
There are 6 zerks. There's a lot of different opinions here. I used M1 grease the first time I did it. When I went to use it again on the next oil change the M1 grease was all separated, dumped it and bought some Valvoline grease. Some use Green Grease. Some use 2 different greases, 1 for the spider and 1 for the slip yoke. Some say any grease is better than no grease.
 
Just dont use moly fortified grease in the spiders.
 
There are 6 zerks. There's a lot of different opinions here. I used M1 grease the first time I did it. When I went to use it again on the next oil change the M1 grease was all separated, dumped it and bought some Valvoline grease. Some use Green Grease. Some use 2 different greases, 1 for the spider and 1 for the slip yoke. Some say any grease is better than no grease.

Thanks for the reply. I'll look into those grease you mentioned. Definitely agree that some grease is better than no grease.
 
I would pull the 4 nuts off and drop the shaft down, then you might be able to get access to the zerk by turning the U-joint one way or another.
 
Chalk wipes off to easily. I use punch when I can on parts. Stuff like front drive shafts (AKA CVs) I use a Dremel and grind a marks.

If you didn't have a vibration issue at speed of up to 70 MPH, just reinstall. You can worry about balance later if becomes issue..
I don't have a vibration issue up to that speed.

And you're right about the chalk. It wipes off easily.
 
If simply removing and reinstalling, but if he takes it to a driveline shop the marks will rub off or get painted over- My preference is a dremmel to make my marks.
Yes. I should not use a chalk. I have to use something better.
 
Had you already touched the zerk with anything before taking the photos?

It really looks like something contacted it....and thus turned it...maybe road debris, a stick, ect? My thinking is if something did somehow turn it maybe it could be turned back?

However, if you did those marks trying to lube it, disregard that thought
Yes I had. But clockwise. I am gonna try again counter clockwise to see if it removes, it will be good enough. If not, I will install it.
 
About the Grease type. I think any NLGI 2 would be fine, which is available here.
 
GUERASFJ60 - has the right idea - any auto parts store will have a 90 degree adaptor for your grease gun that will slide right on that nipple- quick and simple. put some grease in it and run it.
 
Will be difficult to squeeze a 90' grease fitting in between the yoke and the spider. Adjust them to the correct orientation (and we'll all be happy). :)
 
If that shaft is on at least it's 2nd u-joint as it appears then I'd check the splines very carefully before putting another u-joint in it or doing work on it. Often if the u-joints are worn out so are the splines. An all new factory drive line can be an easy and complete fix it you don't have a trusted drive line shop to work with also.
 
If that shaft is on at least it's 2nd u-joint as it appears then I'd check the splines very carefully before putting another u-joint in it or doing work on it. Often if the u-joints are worn out so are the splines. An all new factory drive line can be an easy and complete fix it you don't have a trusted drive line shop to work with also.

Good advice- as the splines in the slip joint wear and especially with lifted trucks the splined connection gets loose; which is an overlooked cause of prop shaft related driveline vibes.
 
91B00260-5211-45C7-81F7-9C1CE60A0CF8.jpeg
Is there room to use one of these slide on type 90 degree adaptors?
PUSH-ON 90° GREASE COUPLER – Oddball Innovations Inc
 
That is the exact grease fitting adaptor I was referencing - I also have a ujoint installed incorrectly just as maasa2002 has, and this easily attaches to the grease nipple.
 

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