Grease for uni-joints in tail/prop shafts - moly (grey) or lithium (bearing) ?
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That's the one I have - a Macnaught K29 is I think what it is. Made in Australia. I have that for my moly greasing with cartridges of something like Vaplex M.
Only issue that trying to hold the gun in one hand when lying under the 80 while screwing the fixture over the nipple to make it seal can be annoying, esp if the nipple doesn't give easy straight-in-line access due to it's position.
Only issue that trying to hold the gun in one hand when lying under the 80 while screwing the fixture over the nipple to make it seal can be annoying, esp if the nipple doesn't give easy straight-in-line access due to it's position.
I have one of those one hand grip style grease guns and use it for small jobs but find them to be too tiring/slow for a big job. The long pump lever type is just easier/quicker to use IME. Whatever works.
Traditional design (I use a long flexible hose extension):
www.wolflube.com
Newer design (watch the video in the link):
locknlube.com
Not sure I like the above design with just that orange cap, doesn't seem like a very positive seal?? Just posted it for reference. My traditional lever type grease gun was Made in the USA 30 years ago.
Traditional design (I use a long flexible hose extension):
Manual Grease Gun – Lever Action – Heavy Duty – 10,000 PSI W.P – 14 oz Capacity
» Manual Grease Gun – Lever Action – Heavy Duty – 10,000 PSI W.P – 14 oz Capacity | Lubrication and Fuel dispensing equipment. Hose Reels, Nozzles, Meter, Tanks, Storage System and much more.
www.wolflube.com
Newer design (watch the video in the link):
LockNLube Easy-Prime Lever Grease Gun
Easy-priming, high pressure, and European engineered, the LockNLube Easy-Prime Lever Grease Gun will change your idea of what a grease gun can be. The lightweight design does away with the follower rod and plate, replacing them with a simple, reusable cap. The plastic follower is pulled up as...
locknlube.com
Not sure I like the above design with just that orange cap, doesn't seem like a very positive seal?? Just posted it for reference. My traditional lever type grease gun was Made in the USA 30 years ago.
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So I was able to visualize old grease coming out of the 4 u-joint seals but it seems that my squeak while diminished isn't completely eliminated. When coming to a complete stop for a few seconds, it will now occasionally make a sound when taking off again. After driving for a bit, the sound seems to go away.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Afternoon Mud 
Stumbled onto this tread while thinking about switching to moly (birf grease) in my slip yolks, i use red n tacky on everything else except brifs.
I have new mr t shafts and carry my old shafts with new ujoints as spares when wheeling (not every trail more rubicon / slickrock), my front shaft is a custom DC with new Mr t doner. I have been chasing a slight growl on deceleration downhill right at the tiny spot between deceleration and acceleration which brought me to the DC being made by West Coast Driveline in West Sacramento.
The DC made a huge improvement. My next steps are going to be, 1, dead center front axle removing front driveshaft side angle and 2 switch to moly in slip yolk where i think that tiny growl is coming from. Its night and day with the DC shaft though, huge difference, 3 rebuild tcase installing sumo 3.1.1 low (why not) to remove any chance of output shaft movement adding to "growl".
Long story short my front pinion faces were so off it ate a new shaft alive within a couple months. I have landtank rear HD control arms and although i wish the uppers were 1/4" shorter to dial in oposing rear pinion angles its close ish.
After reading this new thread i think ill switch to Red n Tacky Ujoints and Moly Black on slip yolk.
Great to see new conversations here on mud for old subjects.
Stumbled onto this tread while thinking about switching to moly (birf grease) in my slip yolks, i use red n tacky on everything else except brifs.
I have new mr t shafts and carry my old shafts with new ujoints as spares when wheeling (not every trail more rubicon / slickrock), my front shaft is a custom DC with new Mr t doner. I have been chasing a slight growl on deceleration downhill right at the tiny spot between deceleration and acceleration which brought me to the DC being made by West Coast Driveline in West Sacramento.
The DC made a huge improvement. My next steps are going to be, 1, dead center front axle removing front driveshaft side angle and 2 switch to moly in slip yolk where i think that tiny growl is coming from. Its night and day with the DC shaft though, huge difference, 3 rebuild tcase installing sumo 3.1.1 low (why not) to remove any chance of output shaft movement adding to "growl".
Long story short my front pinion faces were so off it ate a new shaft alive within a couple months. I have landtank rear HD control arms and although i wish the uppers were 1/4" shorter to dial in oposing rear pinion angles its close ish.
After reading this new thread i think ill switch to Red n Tacky Ujoints and Moly Black on slip yolk.
Great to see new conversations here on mud for old subjects.
I have landtank rear HD control arms and although i wish the uppers were 1/4" shorter to dial in oposing rear pinion angles its close ish.
I do offer HD UCAs in a shortened version.
you want to be careful when switching greases. Different base stocks don't play well together. I've seen problems, especially with outside clip, DC joints, on those shafts there is a long passageway from the center ball zirk to the actual center ball. I've seen those passageways clogged and no amount of effort is going to get grease pass that clog. Try and stick to one grease.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
I have your short uppers but they are short ish not short. I recall there was a manufacture snafu. I have been tempted to order a new set and request they are truly short.
Super happy with the land tank control arms though overall, total beasts and they look good!
Super happy with the land tank control arms though overall, total beasts and they look good!
give me a center to center bushing measurement and I'll have them made to order.
