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Got the really IMPORTANT off-roading stuff in

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by kenton, Nov 13, 2003.

  1. kenton

    kenton

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    Being a big believer in DIY mods, I attacked the big-benefit offroading stuff in my first week of ownership... ::) I'll save the marginal stuff like sliders, bumpers and lifts for when my pocketbook recovers. :eek:

    Anyway, I'm starting a little writeup on the CDL pin7 disconnect http://toyota.4x4.home.att.net/cdlinstall.html, but haven't finished yet. I thought other's text explanations were good, but some people might like pics.

    I also rearranged the dash a little, including the insertion of a CB into the ashtray slot:

    [​IMG]

    It fits snugly with a little inobtrusive dremel-trimming on the internal panel plastic, the CB antenna connects in the back without mods and without it sticking out, and I think it looks professional. It's a Radio Shack TRC-415.

    Later,
    Kenton
     
  2. nakman

    nakman addict. Supporting Vendor

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    Nice work, and congrats on the purchase, much better than the GC... but where's your rear defrost button, did you put that on the bottom (hidden behind the gear shift)?
     
  3. theferg

    theferg

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    Looks sweet! You 80ers are lucky...in dash cup holder. Wish my 60 had one of those... :'( . Maybe i could get one of those 80 ones to fit somehow?

    -Ferg-
     
  4. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Kenton,
    Rearranging my buttons to be like yours is on my project list. I moved the alarm to the lower row and the LED is useless down there so you lose the sentinel value of having the LED flashing.

    How is the mic attached?
    -B-
     
  5. kenton

    kenton

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    yes, defrost is lower row. My logic was: top left is the all-important CDL switch (actually, who am I kidding, the thing's a gimmick and I'll probably never need to deviate from the 4H-off/4L-on that would've automatically happened, but hey I like to twist my knobs. Er, yah, you know what I mean...), top center is the knick-knacks (emergency flashers, security, antenna), and bottom is "rear things" (defrost, rear heat fan). And as Beowulf Mike says, the added benefit of keeping the red blinky top 'n center. Not that it probably will really dissuade a would-be thief. Also, Mike: the mic right now is just laying between the two shifters. I'm thinking maybe some velcro or something to hold it there. I haven't found a good place to mount it.

    To get the defrost to the bottom row did require slicing the electrical tape a little, no biggie. Being down there, it's a little tougher to find, but I only need it when coming home from work in the winter.

    Next trivial project is to find me a compass, with whatever additional gizmos I can find.
    I'm also dreaming up a plot to deceive my wife into thinking that I need a slee rear bumper (for Christmas?) to more effectively tow a boat/popup camper/4Runner trailer/etc.
    Either that, or spend some time mod'ing the rear crossmember to accept a 2" receiver hitch and the strength to haul 2.5 tons. Maybe a length of 4"x4"x3/8"thick angle steel across the inside and bottom? I really don't like the DrawTite hitch's impact on my departure angle. Hell, I scraped it coming out of a parking lot this week!

    Later,
    Kenton
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    About that wire,


    Where'd ya hear that? :rolleyes:
     
  7. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Have you used that cup holder yet? I ask because I had that thing in my T-100 and hated it. Not to bash your purchase, but I think that a lot of people see what's out there and think it's the cat's ass just because it's not available on US models. The beverages will bounce and spray slop all over your head unit. It is a poor design.

    I wrap my mic cord around my transfer case lever. The mic head rests in the leather and doesn't rattle that way.
     
  8. moralien

    moralien

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    [quote author=Gumby link=board=2;threadid=7507;start=msg62985#msg62985 date=1068818680]
    Have you used that cup holder yet? I ask because I had that thing in my T-100 and hated it. Not to bash your purchase, but I think that a lot of people see what's out there and think it's the cat's ass just because it's not available on US models. The beverages will bounce and spray slop all over your head unit. It is a poor design.
    [/quote]

    It's a very poor design for drinks.
    However it works wonders on a JC Bobblehead and my Cobra. :D :flipoff2:
     
  9. kenton

    kenton

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    Cruiserdan, if your response about a wire is to me, I'm sorry but it is too cryptic for me to understand.

    Todd, I have not used it yet. I do need extra cupholders: we took this fat pig to Michigan last weekend, and the first thing my wife said was 'where do we put our kids drinks?'. On road trips she's the stewardess, so if she wants holders, holders she'll get. I've read some of the other cupholder discussions, but nothing yet has tickled my fancy, so I thought I'd start with the factory unit (WileEToyote on SOR has a modified aftermarket unit in the back, but my kids aren't old enough for that yet). If you've got a solution, and I missed it in my search, please let me know.
    Regarding the mic: wrapped around the Tcase shifter is okay, but not my favorite solution. For some reason, when I do it that way, I always have to glance down to get it unwrapped to talk. I prefer a solution that is quick, doesn't require looking away from the trail, and works for the passenger as well (therefore wedged into my lap/crotch, although possibly enjoyable and what I usually do when travelling solo, doesn't always work either).
     
  10. MTNRAT

    MTNRAT

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    I filed the hole in the cupholder larger so that it will hold a small gatorade bottle and other drinks that are a tad larger than the hole the cupholder comes with. Turned an almost useless holder into something I can use in most situations, as long as I buy the right size of drink. No supersizes allowed.
    Sean
     
  11. PDoyle

    PDoyle

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    Hey Kenton, what year is your 80?



    Pat
     
  12. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Kenton,

    >> I'm sorry but it is too cryptic for me to understand. <<

    It is considered good form to give credit to the originator of a mod if that information is known to you. In this case you probably have no way of knowing that C-Dan was the first (AFAIK) to publicly post the "pin 7" mod. Up to that time, most of us were pulling the plug on the transfer case. Pulling the plug works but you lose the low range tranny shift points. With the pin-7 mod your tranny knows the xfer case is in low and shifts accordingly.

    Just a little history lesson for the newbies.

    -B-
     
  13. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Mike,

    I performed an advance search on "Pin 7" and "mod", but could never find Dan's article. Searched in the tech section but did not give anything...Any tips (since you're *REALLY* good in digging up old posts) ?
     
  14. wob

    wob

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    I think it came from the old SOR forum:

    Rogue,

    Ask and ye shall receive:

    Remove the dead pedal and the left front sill plate. In the left kick panel you will find a Silver metal box. That is the ABS ECU. Remove it, and behind you will find a black plastic relay about the size of a cigarette pack. It says "transmission control relay" on it. That's what you are after. The EWD calls it the "center diff lock relay", same thing. Unplug the harness from it and take a terminal pick and remove the black wire with blue tracer from pin#7. Insulate the bare terminal to suit and then put everything else back where you found it. If you have the low 4 position swith at the transfer case unplugged, crawl under there and reconnect that as well.
    What you have just accomplished is you have interrupted the signal from the transfer case that tells the lock ECU that you went to low range but you are still sending a signal to the transmission ECU telling it that you ARE in low range. Therefore the transmission will shift in the correct low range pattern. In addition you now have true manual control over center diff locking. It only locks when you tell it to without regard to transfer range selection.
    Oh, I forgot the final step......Grab yerself a congratulatory #6 (but not an English one as you have just performed an electrical task, sorry Jim)

    Regards.......Dan
     
  15. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    wob,
    Nice avatar and sig line. :D :D :D

    And thanks for doing the search. I remembered Dan used the term "cigarette pack" so that was what I was planning to use for the Advanced search. You beat me to it.

    -B-
     
  16. nakman

    nakman addict. Supporting Vendor

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    So it looks like I'm running the old way... have the wire yanked from the T-case, but haven't messed with the pin 7.. had read about it but I guess it didn't really 'click' until now. So whose had it both ways, what difference did you notice? Does it shift sooner or later? so then all I need to do is just need to plug that wire back in, then find the magic cig box and clip the black wire with the blue stripe? seems easy enough...
     
  17. wob

    wob

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    [quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=7507;start=msg63152#msg63152 date=1068842425]
    wob,
    Nice avatar and sig line. :D :D :D

    [/quote]


    I did it just for you , -B- :beer: :beer:



    Will
     
  18. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Nak,

    The transmission shift points move up in low range, it also downshifts earlier. It is difficult to verbalize but very noticeable.
    You can check it out like this:

    Shift into low range and transmission in drive. Accelerate moderately. The trans will go 1,2,3,od quite rapidly.
    Stop and crawl underneath, plug the low 4 position switch back in and repeat the test. You will find that the gears hold for much longer, and when you let off the trans downshifts.

    Give it a try...................

    Regards....Dan
     
  19. Rogue

    Rogue

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    [quote author=wob link=board=2;threadid=7507;start=msg63102#msg63102 date=1068835776]
    I think it came from the old SOR forum:

    Rogue,

    Ask and ye shall receive:

    Remove the dead pedal and the left front sill plate. In the left kick panel you will find a Silver metal box. That is the ABS ECU. Remove it, and behind you will find a black plastic relay about the size of a cigarette pack. It says "transmission control relay" on it. That's what you are after. The EWD calls it the "center diff lock relay", same thing. Unplug the harness from it and take a terminal pick and remove the black wire with blue tracer from pin#7. Insulate the bare terminal to suit and then put everything else back where you found it. If you have the low 4 position swith at the transfer case unplugged, crawl under there and reconnect that as well.
    What you have just accomplished is you have interrupted the signal from the transfer case that tells the lock ECU that you went to low range but you are still sending a signal to the transmission ECU telling it that you ARE in low range. Therefore the transmission will shift in the correct low range pattern. In addition you now have true manual control over center diff locking. It only locks when you tell it to without regard to transfer range selection.
    Oh, I forgot the final step......Grab yerself a congratulatory #6 (but not an English one as you have just performed an electrical task, sorry Jim)

    Regards.......Dan

    [/quote]

    That was forever ago. Dan even talked me through it. Thanks again Dan. It still works great, and whenever you're in Provo I still owe you a chocolate milk. :D
     
  20. semlin

    semlin discouraged user

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    I just want to know where Kenton and SJcruiser on this thread figured out B-wulf's name was Mike. I've been wondering what his name was for a year now and been too polite to ask..