Got my head off whats wrong with this valve?

[bajaphile]

Just pulled off the head. I'm a little worried though as the drain plug on the block did not release coolant, I thought it was dry, I had removed the radiator... Well, there was water in there so some rusty brown got into the cylinders. What do I do?!! Brake clean on the piston!? How do I get it clean... No compressor here...

Anyways, #6 had no compression, and so I took off the head. Sure looks like the piston made contact with the valve. :/ Bent valve then...Im assuming. Head gasket looked okay too.

Please don't tell me that I have to repair the piston head?!

Looks like Im going to go to a machine shop, any one in San Diego know a good place? Let me know...

 

[Poser]

I am not going to tell you that you have to do anything.


However, I will suggest that you figure out why the piston has that mark in it, along with why the top edge of the cylinder is nicked/damaged.

You can spend all sorts of time and money on this and run it with that piston, only to have it crack and window your engine block for you.



If the valve was really bent, it would not go back up into the guide.



The engine coolant area looks like crap....

 

[bajaphile]

Thanks.

The engine coolant is definetly screwed. I have been sitting under there on the block drain pet-cock for about an hour trying to free it up, and its just weird black mud crap the consistency of wet clay... :/

The piston head... Ugh. No I want you to tell me what I need to do with it. I would rather have this fixed right the first time!!

 

[Poser]

What is the back-story on this engine?


Did this thing run?


How well?

 

[bajaphile]

The engine did not run for about 4 years when I got it.

I replaced all electrical/ignition/fuel... Ran fine, held a great idle, etc for the last month.

Knew something was wrong ... so I kept tinkering. Finally ran a compression test: 150 to 140 on all cylinders except for #6 at 0 psi.

I was very impressed to see the rocker arms and top of the head without any sludge. However, digging further I found that the rocker arm shaft mounts were broken....

I guess I should re-name my thread "whats wrong with my engine"... ahha

 

[ontherox]

Where was that broken piece you show above when you took the valve cover off?? it seems like something that could have gotten wedged somewhere - holding the valve open enough for the piston to hit it?

 

[IDave]

Wow. That looks like it's the frontmost support.

So, can you tell yet whether the valve stem is bent or the spring is broken on #12?

I have no doubt that piston hit the valve when it was open. I would follow Poser's advice about that piston.

I have had that crap plugging the water jacket drain in 3/4 F engines that I've had the pleasure of knowing. I found that working on it from above with a long screwdriver and from below with a coat hanger wire and a smaller screwdriver, and several hours was what finally got it open for me. CLR, Prestone radiator cleaner, and dilute Muriatic acid all helped a little as well in cleaning things out. You need to get it out of there because where that stuff is, coolant isn't. Which means you can overheat that area of your engine (burned through head gasket near #6 piston for me).

I'm reposting your picture of the valve from your other thread for you so that others who maybe didn't see that can do so.

 

[bajaphile]

That is the rocker arm stand (what its called on the spector website. It was actually held in place with a "bar" on top. It wasn't even noticeable until after I pulled everything off and saw the hair-line fracture.

What I want to know is why on earth the valve had hit the piston... I wonder if this had anything to do with it, who knows.

 

[IDave]

Spray down the cylinder walls with WD40 or something.

 

[bajaphile]

Dave, thanks for the post..

I do not have a valve-spring compressor, but, I assume that the valve is bent. I noticed about a 1-3mm gap between the valve head and the top of the cylinder...

There were THREE broken "stands" the front most, and the two middle ones!!

Circled are the stands I am talking about. These pictured were fine though.

 

[bajaphile]

Spray down the cylinder walls with WD40 or something.

I used brake clean and cleaned the cylinders and heads and top from debris. Then I wiped down with a very clean rag and then sprayed WD40 and covered with a clean towel. I live about .5 miles from the beach so I don't want any rust/corrosion for sure.

 

[yotanut]

That last bolt that holds the rocker arm assembly should not have that copper washer(s) under it.
That bolt would of never held the proper torque for very long. This loosening would of eventually done some damage.
Minimum=New valve, valve seat, valve guide,rocker mount, bolts and proper washers, de-burr the nicked wall and piston, and back with head. And obviously use some coolant flush through that cooling system.
-Duane

 

[IDave]

Well, now after looking at it I realize the exhaust valves are supposed to be at an angle compared to the intake valves. Maybe things aren't bent so much. I wonder if the problem won't turn out to be a slipped or damaged valve guide, which held the valve open causing the piston to hit it.

 

[IDave]

Sadly, if SOR is any indication, the steel valve guides for F135s seem to be no longer available.

 

[bajaphile]

Yep, that was went through my mind when I got the rockers off. I was thinking, looking... well, thats the same angle as the other exhaust valves.

So my first prediction/visual was wrong that I had mentioned in my first thread.

Yotanut: Amazing eye you have there. Yes, you're right that bolt was not factory. As for it not holding a torque, its a grade 8 bolt,... I would have assumed it would be ok?!

Any other places where I can buy new rocker seats, bolts, rather than Specter Offroad?

 

[bajaphile]

Sadly, if SOR is any indication, the steel valve guides for F135s seem to be no longer available.

So I am assuming the machine shop wouldn't be able to find them either!?!? Wow, so I'll have to go F motor fishing from other members here...

 

[Rocky_LC]

Also, if you haven't done it - the entire rear drain cock can be removed. Then you have a lot more room to get a long thin screwdriver in there (from the side of the block) to help loosen the crap at the back of the water jacket.

Good Luck

Rocky

 

[IDave]

So I am assuming the machine shop wouldn't be able to find them either!?!? Wow, so I'll have to go F motor fishing from other members here...

Dunno. I'm wondering. Sometimes they'll be able to get stuff you can't or make it, though.

 

[yotanut]

Try looking at Rockauto.com, easy to find what your looking for. I looked, everything you need is available except the rocker mount. Nothing is under 66 model year, use something like a 71. It has the same stuff as your.

 

[IDave]

F135 (pre 1967) valve guides are steel. After that they are bronze. I suspect they're substantially different in size as well.