Got my cylinder head off, Now what? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jul 16, 2013
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East Hampton, CT
Im a novice when it comes to engine mechanics so a little guidance is much appreciated. Dougs DVD and FSM and this forum is working out really well so far. I successfully got the cylinder head off to do my head gasket but I still have a few questions. I did search but not finding what im looking for. Ive been reading about this job for years but cant find some of the nuggets of info in worried about. Hope you all can help and guide me a bit.

I plan on sending my head out for a full service so that will be taken care of. Excited to see it cleaned up and back on my work bench. The oil cooler will get opened up and cleaned while im in there. Also I plan on replacing the original power steering high pressure line while I have nice access to it. Need to order that and maybe something else if you all have a recommendation. The alternator appears to be original. Should I do anything to it while I have on the work bench? 277k miles on it. I also ordered a battery cable kit from Teton Cruisers, mostly for the ground connections.

Over the last few months I remember seeing that the HG kit does not have all the o-rings and gaskets I need. I believe the egr gasket and some coolant o-rings. Any pros out there know? Below is what I ordered so far.

I plan on making another toyota order by the end of the day so I hope everyone else is slacking off at their work computers cruising around the mud forums like I am today and could help. haha im so distracted at work with this HG project...

04112-66036 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Set x 1
15725-66010 Cover Assembly Gasket x 1
15785-66010 Oil Cooler Gasket x 3
90910-02111 Engine Cylinder Head Bolt x 14
90201-12222 Engine Cylinder Head Bolt Washer x 14

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ppc

M Go Blue
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This was posted yesterday as a cheaper OEM gasket kit.


FYI, engine gasket kit for the 1998-2006 80-series is half the price of the 1993-97 engine gasket kit. Same quality, OEM and includes the head gasket.

Very slight differences in head gasket but it doesn't matter or cause any issues.

Cheers
 
Joined
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San Diego
What about replacing the timing chain cover, o-rings on timing chain cover and oil pans? I'm going to be watching this thread since I just bought a '96 Lx450 with 270k in which I'm planning on pulling the head and changing out the headgasket, coolant hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat and such.

Any idea on how easy it is to pull the oil pans when the engine is still in the vehicle?

From the information I've gathered the head should be removed when one is removing the timing belt cover, something to consider i guess.
 

SNLC

OCD
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ARP head studs.

yes you can get the pans off with it in the truck but you got to get a lot of things out of the way for the upper.

Cheers
 
Joined
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Messages
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San Diego
ARP head studs.

yes you can get the pans off with it in the truck but you got to get a lot of things out of the way for the upper.

Cheers

I'm assuming the things are related to the front axle and steering components? If so... seems like it might be better for me to just do the HG, crank, and oil pump seal then.
 

flintknapper

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Deep East Texas
I'm assuming the things are related to the front axle and steering components? If so... seems like it might be better for me to just do the HG, crank, and oil pump seal then.

Yes, Distributor O-Ring and Low Oil Sensor seal as well.

When you get to the point where you need to pull the upper pan IMO you'd be doing yourself a favor to just pull the engine, go through all the bearings in the lower end, do the rear main seal and then button it back up. The pans can be done 'in vehicle' but you'll probably wish you hadn't.
 
Joined
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I'm doing the same. Depending on how many miles your truck has (or not) you might want to replace the motor mounts. Just did mine. Replacing motor mounts

Motor mounts and trans mounts were done last year. That was a pain to do. I have like 277K miles. My original mounts were ok.

What about replacing the timing chain cover, o-rings on timing chain cover and oil pans? I'm going to be watching this thread since I just bought a '96 Lx450 with 270k in which I'm planning on pulling the head and changing out the headgasket, coolant hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat and such.

Any idea on how easy it is to pull the oil pans when the engine is still in the vehicle?

From the information I've gathered the head should be removed when one is removing the timing belt cover, something to consider i guess.

I feel like this is going to be a 3 week job for me as it is and im already suffering from mission creep. I was looking at the engine with the head off and thought to myself "oh look the transmission bolts are easy to get to, I could pull the engine out and do the rear main seal." But I dont need to punish myself any more than I already am. My 2 year old goes down at like 9pm and ive been wrenching till 1am and up at 5am to work, all week and next week too.

Ive already done a stupid amount of pm to this truck before the head went. Prior to head going, New: radiator, water pump, thermostat, all new hoses, oil pump seals, power steering pump rebuild, upper plenum rebuild chasing a PO401, trans oil pan... I dont believe ive done the lower or upper engine pan yet but its not leaking so again ill save it for another day. Ill need something to do this winter or next summer when a heat wave hits.
 
Joined
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Last night I got the head all stripped and put the cams back on finger tight. My neighbor suggested we poach an amazon box and put all the head bolts, sensors and mounts to it like on the head for orientation references. Genius! I like it! Easy off easy on. I took a ton of pics too. Early on we did the same thing for the upper plenum bolts. We kept it short last night after packing up the head into my truck. Was nice to catch up on some rest finally. This weekends plan is to clean the top of block and open up the oil cooler and have a look see. Im toying with the idea of painting the valve cover and cleaning up the air filter can and spray it back. :beer:

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Joined
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Messages
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East Hampton, CT
Yes, Distributor O-Ring and Low Oil Sensor seal as well.

When you get to the point where you need to pull the upper pan IMO you'd be doing yourself a favor to just pull the engine, go through all the bearings in the lower end, do the rear main seal and then button it back up. The pans can be done 'in vehicle' but you'll probably wish you hadn't.

Good suggestions flintnapper, i totally forgot about the low oil sensor seal and i agree might as well pull the engine and work like a gentleman. That cross member is in the way pretty bad.
 
Joined
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San Diego
Yes, Distributor O-Ring and Low Oil Sensor seal as well.

When you get to the point where you need to pull the upper pan IMO you'd be doing yourself a favor to just pull the engine, go through all the bearings in the lower end, do the rear main seal and then button it back up. The pans can be done 'in vehicle' but you'll probably wish you hadn't.

Thanks for the insight, looks like I'll be stopping at the headgasket, front crank seal and oil pump gasket then.

PZLCruiser - Hope you don't mind me butting into your thread and asking a question or two. Looks like you're doing great though. Also I'd really suggest going the powder coating route over painting it. It'll look way better over the years and won't be nearly as subjected to flaking and cracking paint wise.
 
Joined
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Messages
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East Hampton, CT
No i dont mind at all. More about sharing info and helping each other out. Thanks! Ive been reading and thinking about doing this job for years now am excited and enjoying it.
 

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