Got bored waiting on parts and got into a "simple" repair

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tubalubb

what do you mean by "put it back together"?
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
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Location
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Ok, cleaned off all the clay from my drive shaft to replace the universal joints. Looked up how on mud. On a side note, it's funny. I looked up some threads about this project that had a few photos of items I've asked about and searched relentlessly for on image search with no luck but today they pop up, I digress but I'll remember it when I think about someone searching forums for an answer, strange.

I digress.

Seemed straight forward. Removed all four clips (mine were on the inside of the yoke, I guess earlier models had them outside the cap), no problem. Then got a socket and hammer and braced the yoke and started whacking away with the hammer. Really whacking. No luck. Double checked again for anymore clips, didn't see any. I haven't applied heat yet because I wanted to confirm I'm not missing some hidden door with more clips or something.

This is the only photo I have, I'm pointing at clip location for future reference. I know it sucks but this isn't that complex of a component. Am I missing anything or should I apply my McTorch?



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Yeah, you can beat them out and in, but you would really be amazed how much easier life is with a press, even a Harbor Freight bench top model.

True, even if it's just to break it free.
 
I got all four clips out and used. 19mm socket but it isn't budging, not even a little and i've whacked it. It has space to move on the boards, I don't have a vise for some reason.
 
Ok,,I'll go by northern tool here (no HF) when I get back in town.
 
Are you placing a larger socket, like a 24mm, under the bottom of the yoke to catch the lower cup? Can't do the job on a flat surface. John
 
I did it on two boards with a space between. Not much space but enough to move. I'll try that or to rent a press when I return
 
i use a vice and two sockets to press them out. one larger socket for the cup to go into and one smaller socket to fit against the opposing cap
 
I had same problem, maybe. Are you bracing the correct side of the shaft when you are hitting the u joint? At first. I clamped the wrong piece and it wouldn't move.

You must clamp the other piece of the shaft, not the one containing the u joint you are trying to remove. The piece that is holding the u joint being removed must float from side to side if you have not removed the first half yet.

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Tools used

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Wrong way. Wouldn't budge.


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One right way. U joint on long shaft is being removed.


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Another right way.

Oh, and the spark plug socket I'm using began to deform after using it on about 4 of the u joints. I'm hitting it HARD at times. Watch out for loose needle bearings as you put the new joints in. If one gets sideways in the cup, beating the cup in becomes impossible and ruins the cup.
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Oh, and the spark plug socket I'm using began to deform after using it on about 4 of the u joints. I'm hitting it HARD at times.

Try using impact sockets instead of regular.
 
for the cost of a bench top press, and the time I spent with the BFH and sockets, I will never attempt to swap Ujoints out without a press ever again...not to mention all the other cruiser related tasks a press could make exponentially easier...HTH
 
for the cost of a bench top press, and the time I spent with the BFH and sockets, I will never attempt to swap Ujoints out without a press ever again...not to mention all the other cruiser related tasks a press could make exponentially easier...HTH

Yup.

A 6-ton Torin bench top model (Taiwan, not Chi-Comm) or 20-ton shop press is really a convenient thing the have.
 
Harbor Freight is on Hwy 80 in Pearl in the Jackson metro.
 
Thanks, I didn't know HF was in Pearl, I don't get that way unless I'm going specifically so I never passed it, I think I need to get that vise I've been meaning to get, Vae, you're right, with my lame setup I wasn't driving it the right way despite my reading the posts. Can't hammer sideways on a board.

I'll try again Monday, after hopefully a good enough game for me to come watch in Austin, that remains to be seen.
 
Did you soak the caps well with PB blaster or equivalent penetrating oil a day or two before you started? This has been the miracle cure on more than a few occasions for me, including replacing u-joints...
 
shop

I am thinking any equip rental like hertz that has a shop or a machine shop, engine rebuilder etc would press them for cheap
 
Well I went to lowes last night and finally bought a vise, then harbor freight today. Probably a bad idea, I was sorely tempted to walk out with a blast cabinet and parts sink and and and..

Got a press someone talked about on mud. Really appreciate the photos Vae. Tried press and hammer, that was a very difficult deal. I've had it soaking for days but it was a literal beating and took a loooong time to do one. Tomorrow I'll do the other one and hopefully it will go much smoother.

Yesterday didn't so a hot job on my welch and cam covers so I had to order a couple more. Rest of fasteners should be here tomorrow. More later

Still could use photos of bolts attaching batt tray, radiator support and a few others.
 
Wow, this is a real challenge. Trying to keep positive here but it's been a rough go. My yoke keeps shifting on the press, I've destroyed about three of my caps as a result despite care taken. I thought the vise and press would help but these dudes are stuck. I already have new joints, now I need to know where I can buy caps that are good but not a million bucks.

I bought these joints from cruiser corps, I got a we other things from them that I couldn't find anywhere else and added them to the order while I was at it. They shipped fast and packed well, everything was as expected and id order again but II didn't know these bearings were not Japanese although I didn't ask.



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Think they'll work good enough? Where can I get caps?

Here is a shot of the set up and how the yoke shifts due to odd angles and a lip, I had to back this out of course but I wanted to show the issue.



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I was joking about the easy project but really had no idea how stubborn these were. Once they're out ill probably have the trans shop guy press the new ones in.

Had a devil of a time with my cam plug and oil galley welch plug. Going to do both again. Thought the cam plug was golden but then it went in a little further on the bottom right and I don't want another leak, welch was a pia, going to try a different socket.



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Guy got bearings off trans ok. I'm punting on the 1&2 syncro hub, already had ordered 3&4 even though they're good so I'll install them. Decided that since I'm out all next week and am running into walls I'm going to have the trans shop put the planetary assembly and bearings in and I'll seal it all and reattach to t-case, which by the way is looking great but the seal I got for the top cover wouldn't fit so I'm waiting on it and some other items.

I'm glad I have this forum and your help. If anyone local has a later 40 and wants to stop by I could take some photos.

Hoping my other hardware box arrives today so I can get my side cover, and a million other little parts back on. My timing cover isn't back though, can I put my pan back on without it?

Thanks for the help
Tub
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Still could use photos of bolts attaching batt tray, radiator support and a few others.

I have photos. I'll locate them. What else do you need?

Re:Slipping Yokes - yes mine lipped badly whilst I beat on them. I just kept readjusting them. Bang! Bang! Readjust (but got movement of the u joint). Repeat.

Looking at your setup, you need to bolt the yoke to the press (or wire it down).

My u joints came with caps, bearings and the male parts.

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2 of my u joints from TPI 4x4 - Japanese. Not crazy about TPIs customer service.

Also bought 2 from CruiserOutfitters:
The U-Joints are Matsuba Brand (one of the OEM suppliers). They run $37.50 each.
-Bryce, kurt@cruiseroutfitters.com

Cruiser Outfitters
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com
DIRECT LINE - 801-563-1277
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