- Thread starter
- #21
I went to a supply house that carries them, I am not sure, I know the Toyota one is $188.00, this one cost me $25
Good alternator, no charging (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter shocktower
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I went to a supply house that carries them, I am not sure, I know the Toyota one is $188.00, this one cost me $25
- Thread starter
- #22
I got it at a electrical place, I still get no charge, with all new components, alternator voltage regulator and new brushes, I am so hating electrical issues, I feel like I have a bad battery. So where do I look now
Bad belt tensioner maybe? I hate electrical.
Do you have another battery to swap in for testing? Have you taken the alternator to have it test?
Shouldn't a bad battery show 14.2 regardless when running?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Electrical Gremlins are so frustrating. I am dealing with some on by BJ42...at least you can get parts still!
I went with the External regulator with the dodge Alt, are you getting voltage to the regulator from the vehicle side. it gets a ignition controlled exciter power (dont know exact term there). that circuit i believe is fused so might have fried the toyo regulator and pop'd that fuse and now anything new is not going to work.
It sound like your going to have to isolate voltage loss. If it were me I'd start at batt to make sure it holds charges. Then mount alt to truck and test direct output at alt with your truck running. Then test continuity from connnector at alt to battery Or were ever next link would be. There are two ways to test continuity. Check for a short between both ends of the lead, then check for any resistance in wiring. 4 major components are battery, belt, alt, wiring. Even if battery is bad altshould still charge truck enough to run when started.
- Thread starter
- #29
Brand new alternator, new voltage regulator, battery is new
- Thread starter
- #30
That's what I am thinking, I did a parasitic draw and nothing, I guess I need to really, isolate it, another thing maybe the fusable link ?? would that affect it
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- #31
Ok I am still fighting this crap, I tested voltage directly off the, alternator 14.4, now to the battery 12.83, I have put everything new as far as charging, Alt VR, brushes, so what am I missing
At least you know the alt is good. Bad cable from alt to battery?
- Thread starter
- #33
It is all new stuff
I don't know much about the magic of electrical. Does your alternator cable go straight to battery or does it go though any type of fuse?
Try jumping a ground directly from the Alt. case to the battery.
I believe mine is setup battery negative to external regulator and then alternator ground wire goes to regulator.
- Thread starter
- #37
On my set up it's a Toyota Voltage regulator, using the stock plug, wired into the harness, with the Dodge alternator, you can take some things from the Toyota alternator and bolt them directly ( brushes and hood voltage regulator), and normally they work great, and mine did for about 2 weeks and all the sudden, it started acting up, I have changed everything and I am getting no where, today I am going to look at everything closely, I hate charging my battery every night
- Thread starter
- #38
Can you post a picture, of your set up, BTW did you notice my AC set up
inkpot
SILVER Star
So is this 12.83 on battery with the battery isolated from system or with engine running/alternator charging?
I won't be home for a few days but let me see what I can find. I did see the setup but I not a fan of the big long solid piping. I'm sure it is for a purpose but I like keeping things simple. Probably why I have been rocking windows down for years
