Gonna do a tranny swap...

[worshhim]

Got a transmission coming next month and so I am trying to fill my brain with all the necessary knowledge long before it gets here. Some questions, I have an FSM, but should I buy an A440F FSM (I am gonna replace the valve body with an extreme VB). I know that when doing a job of this magnitude, there are always other things that should be done. For example, I know my RMS needs to be replaced (oil leaks), my shift linkage also, gonna rebuild my tcase. What should else should I consider doing? Anyone whose done this already might be able to offer suggestions or advice. How many hours pull and replace transmission if I've never done it before. I try to do all my own work and this will be a great learning experience. Thanks.

Hans

 

[cruiser88]

Got a transmission coming next month and so I am trying to fill my brain with all the necessary knowledge long before it gets here. Some questions, I have an FSM, but should I buy an A440F FSM (I am gonna replace the valve body with an extreme VB). I know that when doing a job of this magnitude, there are always other things that should be done. For example, I know my RMS needs to be replaced (oil leaks), my shift linkage also, gonna rebuild my tcase. What should else should I consider doing? Anyone whose done this already might be able to offer suggestions or advice. How many hours pull and replace transmission if I've never done it before. I try to do all my own work and this will be a great learning experience. Thanks.

Hans

You need to hook up with rockdoc....he will be doing the valve body swop....he has it already

your fsm should be fine but research the sleeve folks are putting over the shaft that goes in between the tranny/transfer..kills any possibility of slop or the klunk you hear.

 

[worshhim]

Thanks, anyone else done this?

 

[cruiser88]

Thanks, anyone else done this?

several but i cannot remember the link.....but i know someone will chime in

 

[cruiser88]

Its called the speedy sleeve i know that much

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

I've dropped my tranny several times. The first time, about 4+ hours to drop and replace with the rig on jack stands.

I would get a new TC or reman'ed TC. The lock-up on the TC has the same material as the clutches and the brakes in the tranny. This material will wear out over time just like the clutch packs.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I've dropped my tranny several times. The first time, about 4+ hours to drop and replace with the rig on jack stands.

I would get a new TC or reman'ed TC. The lock-up on the TC has the same material as the clutches and the brakes in the tranny. This material will wear out over time just like the clutch packs.

Would you be mixing up a full-time case with the part-time one in the 62? The 60/62 TC ain't not got no lockup.

 

[RockDoc]

You need to hook up with rockdoc....he will be doing the valve body swop....he has it already

your fsm should be fine but research the sleeve folks are putting over the shaft that goes in between the tranny/transfer..kills any possibility of slop or the klunk you hear.

Indeed. Mine is going to be a straight drop out the old VB, put in the new one, so no peripheral stuff will be done. Plan to detail as best I can what benefits come of it (operating temp, 0-60 time, 50-75 time, yadda, yadda) but I won't get to it for about a month.

 

[worshhim]

Anyone know what removing the valve body entails? I imagine its pretty straight forward, any advice?

Hans

 

[RockDoc]

Pull the pan, remove 13 (?) bolts holding the VB in, pull the throttle cable off of a cam in the VB, reverse to install. I think there is a spring and 4 O-rings above the VB to change too with the extreme, but it doesn't look difficult. Rodney includes a photocopy of the relevant FSM pages with the VB.

 

[worshhim]

Nice, thanks! When you do it can you post some pics. I will probably do mine in June.

Hans

 

[RockDoc]

Nice, thanks! When you do it can you post some pics. I will probably do mine in June.

Hans

Will do, I should get to it in the last week of May or first week of June. You are putting in a rebuilt tranny too? Or a used unit?

 

[worshhim]

picked up a used unit here on mud, will recieve it in May. 165k...so almost new.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Would you be mixing up a full-time case with the part-time one in the 62? The 60/62 TC ain't not got no lockup.

Right on. Did not know that. I'm not fully anti-ignorant about the 60 and 62 differences.

FWIW: EPC states the following:

Torque Converter (PN 32000-60040) for FJ62 08/'88~09/'88

Torque Converter (PN 32000-60030) for FJ62 09/'88~10/'89

Torque Converter (PN 32000-60031) for FJ62 10/'89~01/'90 and FJ80 01/'90~08/'92. This TC has a lockup.

Torque Converter (PN 32000-36010) for HJ60 08/'87~10/'90

 

[RockDoc]

Would you be mixing up a full-time case with the part-time one in the 62? The 60/62 TC ain't not got no lockup.

Are we talking TC and in Torque Convertor, or TC as in Transfer Case. I think Jimmy is talking torque convertor.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Okay, so there is an unanswered question, I guess
A 62 with a part-time Transfer Case will use a non-lock up Torque Converter and
a 62 with a full-time Transfer Case will use a Torque Converter with a lock up?

The way to tell if you have a lockup is to notice the rpm drop once the tranny goes into 4 gear. If you're at speed above 47~55 mpg (depending on your tire size) and you notice a double rpm drop, then you have a lockup TC. Example: from 3rd gear to 4th gear (drop 1) then 4th to lockup(drop 2). The 2nd drop will happen </= 1 second.

 

[RockDoc]

Okay, so there is an unanswered question, I guess
A 62 with a part-time Transfer Case will use a non-lock up Torque Converter and
a 62 with a full-time Transfer Case will use a Torque Converter with a lock up?

The way to tell if you have a lockup is to notice the rpm drop once the tranny goes into 4 gear. If you're at speed above 47~55 mpg (depending on your tire size) and you notice a double rpm drop, then you have a lockup TC. Example: from 3rd gear to 4th gear (drop 1) then 4th to lockup(drop 2). The 2nd drop will happen </= 1 second.

All 62 torque convertors have lock up, I think the confusion came in when someone thought TC was Transfer Case (and confused lock-up with the Center Diff Lock?).

 

[Aseif007]

FJ-62s have a part-time transfer case. TC=torque converter in this context. I would also replace the torque converter. Check the rear main, replace the seal on the output shaft of the tranny between the transfer case and tranny, rebuild your tranfer case (new seals and bearings, if you need the shim set for the transfer case I've got the whole set PM me if you need it). Also, inspect the output shaft of the A440F under the output gear in the transfer case for sharp splines. Also since the pan will be off clean/replace the screen and inspect your kick-down cable since you are there.

Okay, so there is an unanswered question, I guess
A 62 with a part-time Transfer Case will use a non-lock up Torque Converter and
a 62 with a full-time Transfer Case will use a Torque Converter with a lock up?

The way to tell if you have a lockup is to notice the rpm drop once the tranny goes into 4 gear. If you're at speed above 47~55 mpg (depending on your tire size) and you notice a double rpm drop, then you have a lockup TC. Example: from 3rd gear to 4th gear (drop 1) then 4th to lockup(drop 2). The 2nd drop will happen </= 1 second.

 

[worshhim]

The used tranny has 165k on it and comes with the torque convertor. Do I really need to rebuild the torque convertor with so few miles on it?

Aseif007: What is the shim set for the transfercase?

 

[Aseif007]

Not sure you need to replace the torque converter, but since this is not such a fun job to do twice I would put in a torque converter that you know is good. Then again, you would probably be fine using the one that comes with the used tranny, just make sure to inspect the output shaft of the A440F for sharp splines. Spinning an output gear on the shaft will render your truck useless and is not easy to fix on the trail.

If you rebuild your transfer case you can use 15 different shims to set the load on the bearing at the output flange I think it is. (I can never remember exactly what I am setting the load on) I bought all the sizes years ago so I have them handy. I offered them to the 3FE list for people who rebuild thier cases, all I ask is you replace the shim that you used before you send it back to me.

Basically you put the case back together and using a beam type torque wrench you put in different sizes of shim and check the torque by turning the flange with the torque wrench until it is within allowable torque. If it is not within spec you change the size shim until it is. The FSM has instructions for this.