Going up, no power (1 Viewer)

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I've noticed this a couple of times now and am a little curious. Here in Western WI we are pretty low when it comes to Sea level. We do have some bluffs along the Mississippi though that are releatively high. ANyway a couple of times I have been driving up a fairly steep grade and my truck seems to lose power. Last night for instance I was out putting up my Turkey blind and had to climb up a pretty decent grade, by the time I got to the top I had the gas almost to the floor and was barely moving. I stopped and shifted down to 2 and could barely move although the engine was revving quiet high ( did not catch the rpm's). so I stopped again, put it in nuetral and engaged the center Diff and put it in 1 and then I had all kinds of get up and go. The tires were not slipping but it was as if the power wasn't being transferred to the tires. This has hapened before going up another steep hill where it felt as though I just ran out of Power. Could it be that the transmission is not shifting out of OD when I start the climb? both times I was not going more that 20MPH when I started the climb. DO I need to stop before going up? 92 FJ 80 227K
 
Hows the transmission fluid? When mine was low it caused some odd issues.


3FE :flipoff2:
 
Sounds like you have stalled your engine power/tranny combo, If you know this is going to happen downshift earilyer.
 
I've been having the same problem! I was thinking maybe the mass air flow sensor or tps sensor. Or both! Havnt figured mine out either. I did take my air intake apart last night and found oil pooling in the intake tube! I think I have a cracked hose somewhere that's causing it to siphon oil out of the valve cover. That would cause all kinds of problems. Maybe what were experiencing! Good luck let me know if you fix it. Thanks kinnards80
 
so I stopped again, put it in nuetral and engaged the center Diff and put it in 1 and then I had all kinds of get up and go. The tires were not slipping but it was as if the power wasn't being transferred to the tires. ... DO I need to stop before going up? 92 FJ 80 227K

The above responses seem to have skipped this point.

When you say, "engaged the center Diff," Did you engage the CDL switch on the dash ('92 - should have a factory switch) or did you put the shifter into L causing the CDL to lock?

If the change was just the dash button and not the shifter, then I think there is a chance you have something broken or missing on either the front or rear of the drive train. If it were a stripped drive flange, the power would return like this, but I would have expected it to be stupid noisy before engaging the CDL.

If it was from moving the right hand shifter lever from H to L then you had all sorts of power - you just went to low range. You should have all sorts of power up to 25mph - at which point you'll be in overdrive and running out of RPMs.

Hmm... No noises in in high range with the CDL off when this happens? Normal power on flat ground?

IMHO YMMV I am not a mechanic.
 
When you say, "engaged the center Diff," Did you engage the CDL switch on the dash ('92 - should have a factory switch) or did you put the shifter into L causing the CDL to lock?


The EXACT same thing went through my mind... You don't have to put an 80 in Neutral to lock the diff..

"then I had all kinds of get up and go"

So the stop to lock struck me as odd to. And the possibility of going to low...
 
I think we have a second 2nd gear take off on the 92, when you shift it to second it will not downshift to/into 1st. Stays in 2nd. When you put it in first, you had it in the correct gear. If you had not shifted to second (kept it in D or OD) it likely would have eventually found 1st.

2nd gear take-off is designed as a safety feature so we do not get stuck in slippery/slick conditions. Harder to spin the tires and dig yourself in deeper when you take off.
 
TO Clarify, it was the dash mounted CDL that was pushed, I always put it in Nuetral or park whe I engage this, just a habit from the old Ford truck days i guess. Truck runs fine with no noise in H range, normal power, Just went through the drive train, UV's and replaced them, brand new Birf's last fall as well.
 
I can tell you from personal experience that 3F-E+33s+stock gearing=bogging down at even the most mild of uphill inclines. What's your set-up like? Aftermarket bigger tires? Lift? I know that going up an 7% grade, my underpowered rig will drop to just below 45 mph before the tranny takes corrective action and downshifts. The thing just WILL NOT REV going uphill. Like I said before though, that is a result of having a gutless pig of a motor, oversized wheels/tires, and no re-gear. When I'm on the highway and I come to a little rise and I'm going 70+mph, I have to bury the pedal into the floor just to maintain speed. Hey, nature of the beast. I'm usually not in a hurry to go anywhere, so it doesn't bother me much.
 
yea, I know it can't get out of its own way. Just running stock set up. 31X10.5 no other drive train mods. Hmm, I'm off for the next 3 days to hunt turkeys so I guess I'll play around with it if I get time. Thanks for all of the input, as always its much appreciated.
 
Might want to adjust kickdown cable too...Search
 
I also think when you manually put the tranny lever in 2 that you're forcing the tranny to stay in 2nd gear even from a dead stop and even when the tranny would like to shift to 1 to help you climb a hill. So get to know that feature. Also, I think all of us are still wondering if you know you can put the transfer lever in "low" range for serious climbing. You have to come to a full stop and Park or Neutral for that, so you've created some confusion.

DougM
 
could barely move although the engine was revving quiet high ( did not catch the rpm's). so I stopped again, put it in nuetral and engaged the center Diff and put it in 1 and then I had all kinds of get up and go. The tires were not slipping but it was as if the power wasn't being transferred to the tires.

This description tells me that it is not a gearing issue. It sounds as if something is slipping somewhere in the drivetrain. If the engine is revving, the power should be transferred to the wheels unless there is a problem somewhere.
I'm not familiar with the operation of the viscous coupling in the transfer case, but the fact that locking the differential caused the truck to move, leads me to suspect that there is a problem with the viscous coupling.
 
I also think when you manually put the tranny lever in 2 that you're forcing the tranny to stay in 2nd gear even from a dead stop and even when the tranny would like to shift to 1 to help you climb a hill. So get to know that feature. Also, I think all of us are still wondering if you know you can put the transfer lever in "low" range for serious climbing. You have to come to a full stop and Park or Neutral for that, so you've created some confusion.

DougM

Doug, Yea I know I can put the transfer case into low range, but the hill in my opinion didn't call for that. I'm thinking it has to do with the me puttting it in 2 that caused the issue. Going to try it again later this week and just leave it in Drive and see what happens
 
It did. Read post #8. Your kickdown cable may still need to be adjusted though.
 
Far too much speculation with far too little information.

If you locked the CDL and you had power to the wheels, that rules out most of the driveline with the exception of the front drive plates. That's assuming you put everthing back together correctly in the first place.

If you have little power to the wheels with the CDL open, then something is spinning like mad. Typically, a fouled drive plate would grind heavily. If there's no sound then there's an "open" in the circuit. Are both drive shafts on? Both front drive plates on?
 

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