Going from Dash Box back to Dash Pad (1 Viewer)

[Pierps]

All,

I'm in the assembly phase of a 3 year resto project. When I bought the rig (9/75 US Spec FJ40), one of the prior owners had already installed a dash box. I've never had an FJ40 before this one, so I had no other point of reference.

I bought a new OEM dash pad from City Racer and installed it a few weeks ago. I was just browsing the forum today and learned that there was some kind of a steel shelf or dash pad support spot welded to the top of the cowl, which acts as a dash pad support. I had no idea that this "shelf" had to be removed (spot welds cut out) in order to install the dash box.

I'm pretty bummed out, because my truck is already painted. I thought the dash pad install was a bit flimsy when I put it on (without the support piece/shelf thing), but shrugged it off.

Any advice out there? Is my dash pad eventually going to fall off, or jiggle all over the place installed as is? Should I attempt to rivnut or pop rivet a salvaged piece on to my truck?

Thanks in advance. I am sad.

 

[brian]

end of the world? no, but definitely not going to be as rigid as it could be.

 

[pb4ugo]

If you find a metal shelf you could probably spot weld it in its place. Once the dash pad is installed you wont see it. I'm sure it would strengthen your pad.

 

[jim land]

Pop rivet is good too

 

[GA Architect]

Once you get the dash support installed, the pad attaches to this support via a retainer clip. If you don't have the upper dash pad retainer clip, F40Dash has them -> click here <-

 

[Pierps]

Thanks guys. I definitely won't be welding at this stage. I might kick the can down the road and see how it goes. If I conclude it's a problem, it's not difficult to remove the dash pad and figure it out from there. Were these support panels spot-welded on the top (meaning, the surface that is parallel to the ground), or on the face of the dash panel? Thanks for the pic, @brian.

Pics, just cuz. Thanks again, @jim land for the paint code. I'm loving my color choice!!! I'm going to replace the SOR bolts for the trans tunnel with the stainless bolts from overland metric to match the others- I ran out of his bolts and had to order more. Not digging the yelow zinc. And obviously I have more panels to paint. But she's coming along!! I called this a restoration, but it's really a restomod (sbc, holley sniper, ranger overdrive), as evidenced by the un-needed knob holes that I welded up in the dash. Anyway, I digress. I've had to many coronavirus quarantine IPAs.

 

[Pierps]

and PS, thanks @GA Architect for the link. That would've taken some searching to find. I love watching your thread. You've inspired me to bend and flare some hard lines for my sniper install.

 

[foreputt]

Thanks guys. I definitely won't be welding at this stage. I might kick the can down the road and see how it goes. If I conclude it's a problem, it's not difficult to remove the dash pad and figure it out from there. Were these support panels spot-welded on the top (meaning, the surface that is parallel to the ground), or on the face of the dash panel? Thanks for the pic, @brian.

Pics, just cuz. Thanks again, @jim land for the paint code. I'm loving my color choice!!! I'm going to replace the SOR bolts for the trans tunnel with the stainless bolts from overland metric to match the others- I ran out of his bolts and had to order more. Not digging the yelow zinc. And obviously I have more panels to paint. But she's coming along!! I called this a restoration, but it's really a restomod (sbc, holley sniper, ranger overdrive), as evidenced by the un-needed knob holes that I welded up in the dash. Anyway, I digress. I've had to many coronavirus quarantine IPAs.

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Came across this post while looking for some info on dash pads. Your build looks great and I love that color.