Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (1 Viewer)

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Baby is out of the corner!

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Definitely a slick looking tire mount. I suspect I'll have to do something similar when I move up to 235/85-16s as my 235/75-15 spare barely fits in the stock location. Mind sharing where you picked that one up?

I got mine from Dan Martz. He’s out. Any of the guys bringing in the 79 truck beds will have them. I bet they are still available and cheap via @partsouq
 
Got the new output seals installed on the Tcase, did a cold valve adjustment and then had to turn this ship 90* to get it stuffed in the truck.
My engine hoist has non swivel wheels on the 2 long legs to I had to use a ratchet strap to turn it and push and pull.
Mitch and I got it though.

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With the faithful hound in the foreground....(no doubt the foreman of the whole operation !) 👍
 
Had to go do some virtual day job stuff but i was able to get a few things bolted in after

This won’t go together fast enough for me to do a proper step by step Sniper instal post but if anyone wants that I have a link in another thread here....this one will be a bit different as I’m using an in tank pump and a full return from the Sniper.

Sniper Install Steps

Of course I’m using the @FJ60Cam Mosley Motors Kit. By far the cheapest and easiest kit out there for the F/2F

We both like to use the OEM 2F carburetor heat shield. Add to that the machined Mosley adapter to fit without vacuum leak

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I like to cap off the vacuum ports in the intake versus using rubber caps
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Although the 2F head has a port I could use, the Snioer temp sender fits nicely in the drain plug area. I will wrap this so it won’t send false positives this close to thr
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The back two bolts go into the intake so I put RTV in them to seal them
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Stopping point for the day
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Fuel lines run.

Ive done this many different ways in the past and mostly I think it’s something I’ve made a bit too complicated in the past.

I went full rubber front to rear with heat protection for the engine area.

Simple.

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Puttering along plugging things in.

I don’t have a distributor yet so I’m working my way around that.

Ordered the wrong fan and had to trim the outer fin off this one To make it fit inside the shroud.
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Got some things plugged in like the copper oil pressure line. Radiator hooked up and filled
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Wired and loomed the fuel pump to the Sniper. Ran the vent hose. I’m going to try this one without a charcoal canister.
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Added the passenger fender and rehooked all the factory harness back together.
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Other than the winch and a tank of gas it’s back to ride height.
 
Seriously man, you make a 2F look incredibly sexy. I don't know if anyone has ever uttered that phrase, but I stand by it. I'd love to experience what one of these motors with a Sniper kit on it feels like. I think it would probably deter a lot of motor swaps.
 
Seriously man, you make a 2F look incredibly sexy. I don't know if anyone has ever uttered that phrase, but I stand by it. I'd love to experience what one of these motors with a Sniper kit on it feels like. I think it would probably deter a lot of motor swaps.

Absolutely it would. It really makes these trucks fun to drive to bring in a “modern” late drivetrain. The split case is my favorite mod. It really makes it so smooth and quiet paired with a finely tuned 2F
 
Seeing your in tank pump set-up is inspiring me to do the same on my Sniper system. Not looking forward to pulling the cage to do it though. Oh and swapping to a steel tank from poly. Hmmm.... I guess I could use this opportunity to powder coat the cage though.
 
Seeing your in tank pump set-up is inspiring me to do the same on my Sniper system. Not looking forward to pulling the cage to do it though. Oh and swapping to a steel tank from poly. Hmmm.... I guess I could use this opportunity to powder coat the cage though.

You should do the PowerSurge I have 3 of them and they are the easiest....especially for a tank with that much hassle



PowerSurge

👆
 
Hmmm.... a neat alternative. Thanks! I do have a stock mechanical pump somewhere too.
 
Still waiting on a DUI to land so I went ahead and wired it up so I can drop it in and go when it gets here

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I think I have this right. I’m running a FJ60 internal regulator alternator like I have on my FJ40. To do this simply, I have a 6g wire going from the I post directly to the battery and the black/yellow dissy signal wire going into the G plug. Also in this signal is the yellow Sniper wire that will all run through the + plug on the DUI. Should work. My amp meter won’t work but the Sniper has a gauge for that.
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All my Koito H4 breakers are tucked away on the driver firewall with the old White/Blue alternator wire and plug

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Sniper goes directly to the + battery post but I ran an external 12V bar #406-212 Fastronix to run 12v to the Cig lighter, H4’s and Line Lock. Plenty of room for add ons in that bar

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Added the Line Lock switch to the heater blower accessory panel
 
There are a couple of options when adding a split case. Source a 2F 40 bellhousing and let it hang (short version only) or build a crossmember.
In the past I’ve modified the center section of a 3 piece pre 85 60 series crossmember.

This time, I had a 62 crossmember in the house and a new isolator would went to make it work

This turned out to a lot more work but I pressed on.

I had to drill and cut the isolator holes out for the wider bolts

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Then I had to put the crossmember up and measure width then it came back out to cut it to width

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Then I got some flat plate and made my frame mounts. Tons of grinding and drilling later and it’s all in place to burn it to the frame.
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There are a couple of options when adding a split case. Source a 2F 40 bellhousing and let it hang (short version only) or build a crossmember.
In the past I’ve modified the center section of a 3 piece pre 85 60 series crossmember.

This time, I had a 62 crossmember in the house and a new isolator would went to make it work

This turned out to a lot more work but I pressed on.

I had to drill and cut the isolator holes out for the wider bolts

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Then I had to put the crossmember up and measure width then it came back out to cut it to width

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Then I got some flat plate and made my frame mounts. Tons of grinding and drilling later and it’s all in place to burn it to the frame.
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So clean under there you could eat lunch ...! 🤣
 

If you are wondering about the strength of the flat plate it’s what I’ve been running on Patina 4 years strong.....I’ll gusset it up when we weld it
 
Tech question

The three 2F bellhousings I have here on other trucks use the little triangle thing that offsets the slave a cylinder to the bellhousing.
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On this truck it looks like the slave needs to stay in line with the existing bolts but it needs to go horizontal away from the fork.

Is there a Toyota bracket for this? If not I guess I can make one
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Tech question

The three 2F bellhousings I have here on other trucks use the little triangle thing that offsets the slave a cylinder to the bellhousing.
View attachment 2437303
On this truck it looks like the slave needs to stay in line with the existing bolts but it needs to go horizontal away from the fork.

Is there a Toyota bracket for this? If not I guess I can make one
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To close this question.....the 85-87 FJ60 bellhousing uses a short little push rod on the slave. Lou came up in his 86 and I was able to see first hand.

I’m going to build a bracket and space mine back toward the front so I can have the longer throw on the clutch pedal.
 

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