Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (1 Viewer)

[KT40]

Yeah carb was rebuilt by @JasonH and it runs like butter.

Had to have been some trash.

So that hole is not part of the inner workings of the carb intake it?

Full window must have been my clue bowl was stuck?

I am not an SD40 expert but older carburetors are pretty simple. The hole is the vent for the fuel bowl and yes, I would agree that gas at the top of site window was your indicator.

 

[wngrog]

Last question and I thank you and anyone else that will weigh in.

If this happens again and I am on the road and not the shop and the hammer trick fails, what’s the proper way to unstick the float?

 

[KT40]

Last question and I thank you and anyone else that will weigh in.

If this happens again and I am on the road and not the shop and the hammer trick fails, what’s the proper way to unstick the float?

Unfortunately you will probably have to pop the top off and clean or blow out the needle and seat.

 

[cppilot]

Yeah, I've had to pull the top off of mine before after the same symptoms. A little junk was inside. I cleaned it out and changed the fuel filter.... It only takes a small piece of crud to cause the float to stick. Don't forget the Fire Extinguisher....really.

 

[middlecalf]

Where does your bowl vent go? To smog apparatus or open air? It needs some sort of filtration to prevent infiltration of dirt, pretty common problem on desmogged carbs.

 

[wngrog]

Where does your bowl vent go? To smog apparatus or open air? It needs some sort of filtration to prevent infiltration of dirt, pretty common problem on desmogged carbs.

This single barrel never had smog. It’s as is from Mr Toyota in 1967.

I need an anatomy lesson.

I put a new Kyoto filter on it upstream. The bottom filter was new when I redid the bay.

 

[wngrog]

Just tackled the rear sway bar rubbers from @cruiseroutfit

Excellent product. Mine were totally shot all around.

I had to add a washer on the bolts to make the cotter pin work. I’m sure these are one size fit all so no biggie just needed a tad bit of thickness

Off to the brakes. Ugh.

 

[wngrog]

I hate to jinx myself but so far the brake swap has gone well.

The rear has one rubber hose. It came off with no issue.

The right rear has 2 1” cylinders, both were leaking. The left rear had one 1” and one 1 1/8” which explains why that wheel liked to lock up first.

@pmccraney catching me in action.

This end must wait till later.

 

[middlecalf]

This single barrel never had smog. It’s as is from Mr Toyota in 1967.

I need an anatomy lesson.

I put a new Kyoto filter on it upstream. The bottom filter was new when I redid the bay.

View attachment 1683316

Well I’m completely ignorant on the OEM Aisin carbs, everything I have carb wise is foreign (e.g, US ). But someone said bowl vent in your earlier post, so where does that OEM bowl vent go to get vented? If that’s the outside world without filtration, there’s a great avenue for gunk to get into the bowl (and that I do have experience with, even if foreign ). And I would wager even a higher probability than through your fuel filter since you replaced that.

Thanks for the pics on the sway bar. Now another thing I need to check out, lol! I don’t know, once I dig through all the crud maybe my 55 year old ones are fine?

 

[wngrog]

Thanks for the pics on the sway bar. Now another thing I need to check out, lol! I don’t know, once I dig through all the crud maybe my 55 year old ones are fine?
View attachment 1683764

All this talk. When will we see some action on this truck?

 

[wngrog]

Dove into the front yesterday. A couple of the small 9mm hardlines are frozen so it took a bit more dissection to install the soft line

Then I installed a cylinder wrong and realized I did one on the rear the same way.

FYI. Bleeders out.

When I opened the right rear back up I noticed the pads were still wet looking. Seems a slow leak I had back there soaked into the shoes. These shoes would never have held. I’m glad I messed up and had to go back in.

One other thing I did not do Sunday in the rear was to adjust the new cylinders out to where the drum fits on snug. That will save me a ton of headache getting them adjusted.

 

[wngrog]

Ok. All the brakes are installed and I’ve run the cylinder adjustment up to touching and backed them back up a bit.

So. Bleeding.

Double bleeders per wheel.

Starting the bleed this weekend.

I’m thinking the drivers side rear is the farthest from the master since the long line travels from passenger to driver on the rear axle.

True?

Also, which of the two on the wheel do you bleed first? Does it matter?

Tips appreciated.

 

[cult45]

I used to run the famous Toyoda otto-cylinder-u setup. Pack a lunch for that bleeding exercise! Pax side rear is farthest yes, either cylinder will do IMO. Do you have a source for new 9mm bleeders? Got a mate with an early, wanna gift him some.

 

[wngrog]

9mm bleeders?

I used new 9mm cylinders via @cruiseroutfit

I’ve been reading up.

Looks like I need to get all the pads touching and not back off like I have been if I expect to not have to pump the pedal.

I know getting the pads as close to right as possible before bleeding is going to be key.

Good old writup by @Rzeppa

Land Cruiser Drum Brakes

 

[wngrog]

I got the shoes adjusted up close and dragging. Bled the brakes really good with help from a very patient friend @under_psi

The brakes now need 3 pumps to catch. Used to be 2 pumps and just the rear.

Now it’s 3 pumps. Rear lock then fronts catch up.

Very frustrating.

I’m thinking my drums may be shot.

I ordered some a month ago just because and they did not fit.

@copilot @ClemsonCruiser what’s the source for drums?

 

[JasonH]

I can't imagine that thing has enough miles on it to have worn out the drums (although new ones certainly won't hurt). Make sure both cylinders are even. You can hear it dragging, but if one side is too loose, it'll still take a couple of pumps to get it to grab.

 

[wngrog]

Yeah I agree. I’m going to go pull the wheels off and adjust as Much as I can and try again

 

[wngrog]

I can't imagine that thing has enough miles on it to have worn out the drums (although new ones certainly won't hurt). Make sure both cylinders are even. You can hear it dragging, but if one side is too loose, it'll still take a couple of pumps to get it to grab.

What’s the history on the master cylinder? @FJ60Cam suggested maybe my residual valve is bad.

 

[wngrog]

Drums suck.

I got the brakes so tight all around and evenly spaced the brakes drums had to be hammered on and I had to release them some to barely get them to turn by hand.

Pretty even on all 4 wheels.

I am down now to one pump and then 1/2 way down pump 2 the rears both lock up first and then the fronts kick in a bit. I can only tell that on gravel. On pavement it’s all rear lock up that I can see.

1” new cylinders on all 4 corners.

New pads.

Bled very well.

Here is a pic of the master.

I’ve got no clue.

 

[JackA]

When I did the drum brakes on my 66 i had to adjust the shoes out with the wheel and drums on the truck. This got them the closest.
You are trying to put the drum on after and I think that's the problem.