Go Atlas or stick with the Toyota xfer case (1 Viewer)

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workingdog

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Once I get my garage sorted out in a couple of months so I can work inside on concrete, I'm going to take my '67 40 to 1) linked rear end, 2) 40" tires, 3) dana 60 front and rear.

I had been planning on keeping the toyota transfer case. I had the 4:1 gears added by Advanced Adapters a while back - so the gearing is great. But, a couple of times now people have suggested that I should go all the way and go to an Atlas. One of the advantages, other than how stout it is, is that it would change my drop and make front dana 60's easier to find. For instance, there's a fairly new Currie Dana 60 for sale right now on Craigslist with locker and 8 lug hubs at a good price, but it's not the right drop for the toyota transfer case.

I'm looking for advice on just how strong is my toyota case (originally out of an '84 fj60) compared to an Atlas, and what else do I need to consider if I'm going to change to a driver's side drop?
 
Thanks @Lil'John. I have a 6.0 with 4L80 and 40" tires. Which I'm being told is getting to the limits of the split case. However, I'm not some buggie nut job howling the tires on every ledge I come to. On the other hand, you always end up in situations where you end up putting a lot more stress on the drive train than you ever thought you would. That was certainly true when I didn't mean to, but I came down on my left front with a lot of wheel speed and blew up the birf.
 
Sell the case, I am interested, and buy a Atlas case or better yet a new Stak or whatever that company is called now. Look at how many Ultra4 guys have switched from Atlas and gone over. Personally I run a NP205 but only need 1.96:1.

Seriously let me know if you want to sell your split case with 4:1 gears, I am getting ready to order up a gear set and rebuild kit.

Rob
 
You can get a passenger drop Atlas.

Run the split case first and then decide if your new capabilities are creating a greater likelihood of trying something risky to the Toyota t-case.
 
Do not forget about fab work for t-case, driveshaft, yokes and all that. It all adds up. I have heard the split case is strong, depends on your driving habits. Nothing like roasting a set of 40s and not fearing breakage! :)
 
Thanks for all the great input. I wasn't so much concerned about the cost of the 60 - even though I said that in my post. I was more concerned about doing all that work and then having the toy transfer case blow up on me and then have to redo a bunch of fab when I change out the transfer case.

So, thanks for the reassurance on the strength of the toy case.
 

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