GM Alternator ID (1 Viewer)

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Can anyone tell me what year and what vehicle this alternator might have come out of? There are no numbers on it whatsoever and it only says Delco on it. I took it to 5 parts places including the GM dealer and noone knew, they said it was an antique.

I'm reading up on the 1 vs 3 wire setups and mine seems to be a 5 wire alt and only 2 wires are currently being used. Just looking for some leads on the proper wiring of it.

Thanks.
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Shows the wire I'm using which is wired to come on when the key is on.

The main power wire is running right to the pos bat terminal, which from what I've been reading needs to be to a junction box. So basically there is no sensing and only a constant voltage being supplied to only charge the batt and everything else runs off the batt (I havn't exactly figured out how yet, just trying to figure out what the hell this alt is off of for now). Thanks.
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Gumby

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It's not too much of an antique. The 70s versions had a two wire spade connector. That one looks like an 80s version after they went to the weatherpak style connectors. My guess is early 80s if the pulley is correct.

I want to say that you can run it with just the one wire. It should be ignition feed, but one that will not back feed into the ignition circuit. If it does the truck will keep running with the key off.

the main power wire can run right to the battery, or to the starter stud going back to the battery, or to a juction box. To make your amp guage work, it should be run through the white/blue wire that was on the stock alternator, but my modern alternator puts out way too many amps to make that safe.
 
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I guess what I really need to know is which of the 4 pins do I need to use if I were to run it as a 3 wire setup.

I think the pulley may be from a different one. :confused:
 
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HawkDriver said:
I guess what I really need to know is which of the 4 pins do I need to use if I were to run it as a 3 wire setup.

I think the pulley may be from a different one. :confused:

Don't try, that 3-wire gig is for the older 10 & 12 si models. If you are not getting enough amps, bump up to the cs 144 model. The larger cs 144 will not work with many of the more common alternator brackets floating around without mods.

Anyway give Mark a call at the commercial link below, he will give you the straight skinny
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cs-130.shtml
 
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Hot damn!

Well that sounds like the one.

Ok according to that link it's wired correctly with the exeption of the one big pin being connected back to the main terminal on the alt.

Holy shiite, we're getting closer. But...

The madelectric articles I've been reading say that the main power terminal coming from the alt should go to a junction rather than the batt pos terminal. I think I need to do it that way because without it then it will always be sensing the batt voltage rather than the voltage of the rest of the system. Sound correct?
 
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Planet_X said:
Don't try, that 3-wire gig is for the older 10 & 12 si models. If you are not getting enough amps, bump up to the cs 144 model. The larger cs 144 will not work with many of the more common alternator brackets floating around without mods.

Anyway give Mark a call at the commercial link below, he will give you the straight skinny
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cs-130.shtml
Thanks,

I don't think it's a lack of amps but a lack of correctly detecting, regulating and distributing the load. But again I could be wrong.
 
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I am using the cs-144, the pictures in this thread show the junction block, the wire running up from the firewall with the copper eyelet is from the alternator. The wire coming from the driver side is from the battery, it runs down driverside fender- between radiator and bib to battery located on passenger side front.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=43656
 
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HawkDriver said:
The madelectric articles I've been reading say that the main power terminal coming from the alt should go to a junction rather than the batt pos terminal. I think I need to do it that way because without it then it will always be sensing the batt voltage rather than the voltage of the rest of the system. Sound correct?
It's BS. If all the contacts are good, then the battery voltage should be the same as the voltage anywhere else in the main chassis feed circuit +/- .01 V. Anyway, the battery voltage is what you need to worry about because you don't want to boil it.
 

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Pin_Head said:
It's BS. If all the contacts are good, then the battery voltage should be the same as the voltage anywhere else in the main chassis feed circuit +/- .01 V. Anyway, the battery voltage is what you need to worry about because you don't want to boil it.

Totally agree. I have had problems in the past with different alternators. It's just so much simpler to go to the one wire system. A lot cleaner. Only thing is on mine with a 105 amp alt I cannot feed it back to the alt meter. I'm looking at swaping it out internally with a volt meter just so it still retains the stock look. BUt I have a volt meter on my GPS that works to tell me whats going on.
 
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HawkDriver said:
Thanks,

I don't think it's a lack of amps but a lack of correctly detecting, regulating and distributing the load. But again I could be wrong.

The regulator is Tango Uniform.

Cs-130 are not the stoutest alternators, any junkyards around Killeen?
 
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Tango Uniform- I think you're right.

Bought a new multimeter today (Crapsman and at $19.99 I know it's a high quality product :rolleyes: ). So I'm sure it's the system and not a faulty meter.

Well today I went through everysingle ground on the beast and cleaned em up propa like. And I rerouted some of the wiring to my big circuit breaker which is doubling as a junction. It now will run off of alternator power with batt disconn. Anyways, today's tests indicate that the alt produces anywhere from 17 - 19 volts. :eek:

I also wired that sensing terminal on the alt to detect the voltage which should have been telling the regulator that it is way too high and cause it to produce less. Well that's not happening, it doesn't respond and seems to just produce way too much all the time, so I've deemed that the regulator is bad.

Here's the other problem, even with 17 or so volts to the components (lights fans etc...) they still bog down when they are all operating. So with plenty of volts, does this mean a lack of amperage? My meter only will test 10amps so I can't tell what the alt is producing or how much is getting to the components.

So, first things first I guess. Replace the alternator then continue the power drawing problems.

Thanks and I'll keep ya posted. :beer:
 
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I see the 144 model mentioned, but what about something like this rebuild kit and keeping the setup I've got already? Says 140 amps which should quite an upgrade.

Pros/cons to rebuilding myself/having the alt shop guy rebuild compared to just buying a reman either 130 (current model) or a 144 from parts store.

Pros:
Keep current mounts and pulleys
Alt shop said about $80 for a 100 amp rebuild


Cons:
is an upgraded 130 as good as a reman'd 144?

Any thoughts?
 
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The cs-144 alternator is a chubby and will not fit your current brackets. I have not added up the total electrical draw, but it is not that much most of the time, some things that could be done without too much down time, is to start wiring 'big' demand devices using 30-40amp relays. such like -headlights/electric fans/heaters/wipers motors etc. .

Ebay seems to have some decent 'grease/haggle' free deals on alternators and parts.

A cs-130 is a decent alternator me I would go the easy way and get another, but your interests/time/$$ may lead you to rebuild the one you have with that 'iceberg' kit.

These places will be useful to you if you decide to get into 'it' (vehicle wiring):
http://www.delcity.net/
http://www.waytekwire.com/

I have to recommend this again and your situation a couple other of his 'kits' would not be a waste of $
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tb-1.shtml
 
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