Glass Channel (1 Viewer)

[ras0ne]

So my rear passenger side window hasn't worked for a while.

I ordered a new regulator just to find out that the old one wasn't broke, it was just that the glass run was so gunky the window was pretty much seized in there.

I ended up taking apart the door panel, removing the glass run and taking out the division bar to remove the window.

The door glass was filthy, so I removed the glass channel fillar\glass channel and gave it a good clean.

I did the same thing with the glass run.

So i put everything back together...

by the way, is there an "method" to get the fillar and channel back onto the glass...what a pain in the ass

Now here's the problem...the window rolls up slow as mess....and when i try to roll it down the channel\fillar pops off the window, so I can't roll it back up or do anything really...

any solutions?

I ave the FSM and whoever wrote this deff never had to install the channel\fillar onto the glass, cause it tells you to just tap it with a hammer....

 

[greentruck]

Get some spary silicone. NOT the white, gunky stuff. You want the stuff that goes on clear like Pam, but leaves things all slidey.

Give it a good spray up and down in the runs with the window down, letting it get just juicy enough at the bottom so a little runs on down inside the runs/tracks in the door. Up and down with the window, being careful about not getting it lugged down enough to blow the fuse/CB [can't remember which in this circuit].

Also heard about people disassembling the motors and cleaning them up. Not sure what's involved with that.

I don't know what the cost of new tracks would be, but that's the end point if things don't improve, based on several others people's experiences. I've heard no one gasping about the price of 'em, so maybe they're priced low enough where that's a good option anyway?

My window runs are a little slow, but the silicone is gonna give 'em a couple of extra years of life, I suspect. So far, so good.

 

[ras0ne]

on Conicelli Partznet | Used dealership in , they run about $60 a piece for the rear ones, about the cheapest I've found.

have you had any issue with the channel\fillar (the part that holds onto the glass and connects to the motor)

I have a hell of a time trying to get them on and when I try and roll the window down it pops off.

 

[Hayes]

I'd try new channel insert thingies. That fixed my front ds, which was similar to what you describe.

 

[CJF]

Now here's the problem...the window rolls up slow as mess....and when i try to roll it down the channel\fillar pops off the window, so I can't roll it back up or do anything really...

No simple "trick" for getting the glass back in the regulator arm; you just have to do it. BUT: This time also use some silicone (the white gunky stuff, not the spray) to glue the glass into the clamp.

Curtis

 

[ras0ne]

I got the parts in and finally did my rear passenger window today.

Let me just say this...

I tried silicon spray, cleaning the rubber, graphite powder, just about anything mentioned in this forum AND the best solution I can come up with is...buy new rubber.

I spent about $60 buying new rubber and a new fillar and now my window is back to working fine again.

Here's my lil two cents in on how to mount the glass back into the channel that connects to the regulator.

1. Clean glass
2. Mount rubber fillar on glass where is needs to go.

DISCLAIMER: The FSM shows that it should be space about 178mm or 7.024 inches from the front of the glass...well I measured and this doesn't add up. This would put the fillar on the angled portion of the glass. Also the fillar is a little longer that the channel so you'll need to trim it.

3. After fillar is mounted, put some soapy water on it, then slide the channel on. Use a rubber mallet or hammer to slowly tap the channel down.

This will take a bit, but has produced the best result for me.

Now my window rolls up and down fine and it doesn't come off the mount.

New rubber is the way to go!

 

[ras0ne]

Now I just need new plastic to glue on as a vapor barrier...

 

[ras0ne]

Got the vapor barrier, it was about 23 bucks from my local dealership. I'll post the part number later. I just couldn't find it on any toyota "parts" sites.