Getting Randy back into his prime (1 Viewer)

kelly saad

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
1,671
Location
Flagstaff Arizona
I just sprayed that color. I used Omni B/C and had to shoot 7 coats of base to get coverage because it was so transparent. At 5 coats it looked like it was covering but I added two more to be safe. Limco, by BASF covers much better but I already had Omni. They gave me an extra gallon for my trouble, so I actually shot 4 sprayable gallons of base!! I was not happy, but it turned out really nice. All the transparent layers give it so much depth. Also, in the sun it looks like a pearl, pretty interesting.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
386
Location
Fort Mill, SC
I just sprayed that color. I used Omni B/C and had to shoot 7 coats of base to get coverage because it was so transparent. At 5 coats it looked like it was covering but I added two more to be safe. Limco, by BASF covers much better but I already had Omni. They gave me an extra gallon for my trouble, so I actually shot 4 sprayable gallons of base!! I was not happy, but it turned out really nice. All the transparent layers give it so much depth. Also, in the sun it looks like a pearl, pretty interesting.
Well I'm definitely going to stick with the factory color! I was thinking about getting my paint from Napa which I understand is rebadged Sherwin Williams. Not sure which SW it is but I used their Ultra 7000 on my last project and it is awesome stuff. Ever have experience with Napa paints?
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
386
Location
Fort Mill, SC
Well today is a 1 step forward 2 steps back kinda day. I realized I needed to get the roof rack off and once off was greeted with some lovely stretched holes created by the big ass sheet metal screws holding on the roof.
20201206_170648.jpg

20201206_170629.jpg

So this requires the removal of some of the headliner. I guess I'm lucky it's not the factory liner as the glue was pretty easy to soften with a heat gun. Once in there I pushed back all of that Japanese drier lint they stuffed in my roof and went to work closing up the holes. Note to self: wet the drier lint BEFORE welding the hole, s***forbrains. Thankfully I smelled the smouldering and got a wet rag into there lickety split. Moving on, I wetted the underside of the roof then welded the hole close and ground them smooth. Used a hammer and dolly to get them back into shape. One step forward.

I've been curious, so I looked under the bottom driver's side corner of the windshield gasket. I saw exactly what I hoped I wouldn't see, FFO. F#©<ing Ferrous Oxide. Awesome, now the windshield has to come out. Well, I had been looking at the scratch on the passenger side, but I figured I could live with it. It not in my line of sight afterall, so I figured Screw It. But now I gotta pull the friggin thing, dammit. One step backwards.

Luckily it's had a windshield in the fairly recent past as the gasket is nice and supple. It get the top corner walking out pretty easy and using light pressure. It was at this time I heard that noise. Sounds like a quick tap on the windshield and I watched the crack race across right in front of my face. Well uckfay emay. I guess that scratch isn't going to be a problem after all. Hopefully the 62 windshield is good or this just got a bit more expensiverer. Big step backwards.

Now for the rust, I've got a few spots to deal with under the gasket. Also have a skinny line of rust where a windshield guy ran his knife along the bottom cutting off a gasket. A couple places the rust has popped through, not much, but still.
20201206_173828.jpg

20201206_173752.jpg

20201206_173810.jpg

Where it hasn't popped through, would you guys cut it out or rust convert it and cover it in epoxy primer and paint? I think I know the answer already, but thought I'd ask anyway. Laterz.
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
386
Location
Fort Mill, SC
Wasn't super motivated today. Working till 5 then 40 minute drive to the shop sucks. But got a little done disassembling the doors, removing shiny bits and inside door cards. I have a bad habit of going full bore and had to have a conversation with myself. "Self, this isn't a Pebble Beach restoration. You don't have to disassemble it down to the nuts and bolts, FFS.". So I stopped complete disassembly of the doors, leaving in the glass and some rubbers. I plan on doing a lot of masking. And since I'm going to stick with stock color I should be good.

I did get around to spending a few minutes with the Durablock on the hood to see how bad it really was. 37 year old matte paint hides a bit. I could see a few hail dings so figured there were a few more hiding. It did not disappoint.
20201209_200755.jpg

I'll skim these and get them real close, then
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
386
Location
Fort Mill, SC
The stock roof rack on my HJ60 had a backing plate with welded nuts to hold on the rack. Toyota does it properly, even if it does leak and cause a ton of rust 30 yrs later...

View attachment 2520712

View attachment 2520713
Shlt fire, that looks gnarly. Having done a roof in that area I remember how much fun that wasn't. But yeah, I wonder if the stock rack accessory would have come with backing plates and someone was like "No thanks, I'm not pulling the headliner. Sheet metal screws will do just fine."

Good luck on your roof repairs dude!
 
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
386
Location
Fort Mill, SC
Lots of work being done, but only some of it is visible. I spent 2 days (~6 hrs) totally cleaning out all the cracking body sealer from the rain gutters. In a couple spots I could see the rusty red tell tale sign of doom lurking just over the horizon. Once they were totally cleaned out I hit the entire gutter with rust convertor just to be sure if there was any rust thinking of making a home down in the seams it met a dismal fiery end drenched in phosphoric acid and other things contained within the Rust Kutter bottle. I also welded in a small patch in the windshield where the rust had just made a pinhole and fixed the other two spots that would be come a problem in the future.

The real work that you can see is the "new" sheet metal that I got from @shmukster, who met local fellow Mudster @JohnVee when John was up in VA this past weekend. John was kind enough to transport the fender and valence back for me and refused (!) any pesos for his trouble. What a guy! I also learned how many more addicts there are in the area and joined ONSC club after learning that it existed. Soon I will be around other people, in person, who think all of this stuff I'm doing is perfectly normal.

The "new" fender came off a rig that was so rusty that Gary (shmuckster) said that while he was cutting the roof, the truck folded under him. That's how bad the frame was, the body was all that was keeping the truck upright. That can't be good. However the fender and valence look really good. Not completely rust free like what came off Randall, they only had surface rust save for two mounting tabs in the middle of the fender wheel well. I cut off the tabs from the crunched fender and fixed up my new fender and then hit all the seams with Rust Kutter for good measure.

2020-12-17 18.34.32.jpg


Once the rust convertor had cured I hit it with some paint and once dried started bolting it all back up. Everything lined up pretty good and after about 30 minutes had the fender back on the truck. Well SHIfT! Turns out I still had a little more straightening to do. Note to self; don't put every f**king bolt on the fender till you check alignment on all the edges. The forwardmost bolts by the headlight bucket were still a good 1/2 inch from their mounting holes. I thought I'd pulled the core support back enough, but apparently not. Thank god for the little B&D impact driver I bought, the fender was off again 10 mins later. A good bit of persuasion and the core support was back where it needed to be. Got the fender bolted up and the valence fit like a dream. Damn, it's starting to come together!

2020-12-19 16.59.58.jpg


While I was waiting for all the convertor and paint to cure I got to work at the very back addressing the newly found Bondo on the liftgate. Looks like something pushed the liftgate and bent it at some point. The repair looks OK, but apparently they drilled a few holes to pull the dent out, and then once close enough smeared Bondo over it and sanded it back into shape. They actually did a pretty good job but for some reason just left it in grey primer, which is not waterproof. Not sure why people do this, like if you want it grey then spend another $3.99 and grab the can of grey rattle can paint next to the grey primer.

Screenshot_5.jpg


Anyway, so while I was back there I pulled the carpet back and removed the weather stripping and found a little rust. You kinda expect it there, TBH. I couldn't tell if the surface rust was running up under the factory sound deadening, but most of the deadener was pulling away from the deck. So to be sure I popped about 8 inches of it back all across the rear. There was some surface rust that had climbed up under the deadener, but by and large it was clear. The weather
stripping lip was eat up in a couple spots so I went to work on that. And that damn body sealer, aka Rust Ensurer, had let a little get down in to the seam of the lip. So I popped off all the rust ensurer to see if it was everywhere. It was only in a couple spots and I was able to get the convertor down into the seam. I cut off the bad metal and prepped the area for new weather stipping tab in those areas.

2020-12-17 19.25.58.jpg


So tomorrow is welding in new weather stripping tab and finishing up the remaining 4 holes in the roof from the roof rack. And (f'ing fingers crossed) I am done with rust and welding on this project!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Messages
386
Location
Fort Mill, SC
Got a couple more things done and some things discovered. First, I've discovered why the AC isn't working. Initially I thought maybe the AC Amplifier gizmo was at fault. But as I started looking into the system I pressed in the shrader valve on one of the R12 service connections on the compressor and found it had zero pressure in the system. So I hooked up the vacuum pump and the gauges and pulled a vacuum on the system. It held a vacuum over night so I surmised all was well and fit the new R134a service fittings and pulled another vacuum, put in 18 oz of R134 and viola! the compressor engaged and we started to get cooler air. I didn't have enough to do a full fill so I waited till the next day when I could get some more R134.

Returned the next day started the truck and nada, no joy. The system was totally empty again. Awesome. So I ordered a freon leak detector from Amazon and waited a couple days and started testing. Put in 20 psi of freon and fired up the $27 tester. Within about 5 minutes I had located a leak, hopefully the only leak. It was the high pressure line coming out of the receiver/drier where it connected to the condenser. I tried tightening the fitting, but it was super tight. I went ahead and pulled the fitting apart and found the o-ring was really compressed, but I think it was leaking because of a bit of corrosion between the o-ring and the inside of the fitting. I've ordered an o-ring set and will see if that fixes the issue.

I spent some time on the lift gate to see what's up with that Bondo I found. I took the flap disc and got to work removing it all. It was kinda thick in places but once it was off I could see what I was dealing with. It was pretty bumpy under it all, but the bare metal was clean, so no moisture got under it. But it needed a good bit of work to get it much closer to the original state.

2020-12-26 15.48.21.jpg


You can see some of the holes they drilled to pull the dent(s) out
Holes.jpg


I pushed the Bondo out and used the hammer and dolly to smooth our the metal. Then I welded up the holes, smoothed off the welds and covered everything in 2 part epoxy primer. While in there I went ahead and got rid of all the seam sealer and put some rust convertor down in the seam below the glass. There was a little surface rust, but nothing serious, but I did it purely as a preventative measure.

Next I got to work sanding the whole. damn. thing. Found out why the passenger front fender had clear coat on it, it was banged up and worked on a few years back. Had to take half of it down to bare metal, but there wasn't that much filler on it. Otherwise, it's looking pertty good elsewhere. I've found a few spots that need a little massaging, but nothing major. The hood is going to take the most work to get ready for paint.
2020-12-31 19.50.02.jpg

2020-12-31 19.49.17.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom