Getting Randy back into his prime (1 Viewer)

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Feb 2, 2016
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Fort Mill, SC
So she's home...I still haven't named her (or him?), these things take time. But we have started bonding already, since we got home from Arkansas to SC without so much as a hiccup. But I mean, c'mon, it's a Toyota! Once we got some good gas run through the engine started idling nice and smooth, I had to check the tach a couple times to make sure it hadn't stalled. I've got a wheel out of balance or something, but nothing major, just annoying on the road. Clutch is smooth, no chatter, and we found hand written notes that the rear main was changed when the clutch was changed, about 25K miles ago. No leaks anywhere. Not one that I've found yet. There is a little more rust in the rear quarters than the original pics showed, but to be honest, I expected that. Once I saw that they had covered the rusty bits and painted over them to hide them I knew I'd find more. But still VERY manageable. If y'all followed the 62 project then you know this will be a total breeze by comparison. Anyway, I wanted to get the thread started as I begin on the 60.

However this means the 62 project is on perma-hold. I'll figure out what do to with it later.

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Bringing the 60 home <--video
 
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Joined
Feb 2, 2016
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Fort Mill, SC
To early ask about first dibs on parts 62 rear seat? I need the headrest frame and @ssettar needs the silver fabric.
I'll have to get back to you on that one as I may be fitting the 62 rear seat and belts into the 60. If it goes, remind me that you asked about it and you can have dibs.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
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Simpsonville,SC
Don’t let the vultures raid your 62 until you figure out what you need.

swap the factory seat back covers and put the 62 headrest seat in your 60.

@SHIfTHEAD

My apologies.

Never really thought of myself as a vulture, didn't think my question was out of line nor a raid. I do hope you get it all figured out though and maybe since we are both in SC one day we can share a beer on a ride.
 
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@SHIfTHEAD

My apologies.

Never really thought of myself as a vulture, didn't think my question was out of line nor a raid. I do hope you get it all figured out though and maybe since we are both in SC one day we can share a beer on a ride.
Nah, I didn't take it that way dude. And yeah,let's do some beers.
 
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Fort Mill, SC
So the fun begins! I got out the flap disk and got that paint off there to see how bad it was, it's not great, but I've seen way worse. Some body shop years ago, I assume, went to fix some rust and they just stuck fiberglass over it all. Then for good measure used Bondo to smooth it out. The fiberglass is still solid, of course, but all the metal it was stuck to has turned to dust.

Anyway, while I had the line I traced it and made sure I could recreate it.
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Here's what it looks like without the paint, Bondo and fiberglass
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And the fiberglass just popped off, so all it did was hold moisture against the fender
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Now I'm cutting away the bad to get in the and see how deep it goes. Honestly, not that bad. Couple days making a few patches and it'll be good as new.
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This should be the worst of all the rust, so fingers crossed, I'll be wrapped up with rust repair in a couple weeks. Then I will move onto the front end and remove all the dented stuff.

Party on!
 
Joined
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That front bumper, it's a sight to behold in person. It looks like someone took some stainless cover and went it it with a plasma cutter and a welder. Then they fabbed up their own mounts and mounted it all with some cheap home depot bolts, so the recovery point are purely aesthetic. It must have gotten in a fender bender at some point and got a new front passenger fender and this bumper at the same time. The frame mount points are slightly tweaked. Oddly, they used legit ARB fog light assemblies, so they knew about real bumpers.
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Joined
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Fort Mill, SC
It's just metal, right? Fabricating wheel arches seems hard, especially considering I have no actual training and just figure this sh:t out as I go. I did create a cardboard template so that I can reconstruct the line, but it's the lip that's going to be a biotch. Right now I'm creating patches that are longer than necessary so that I can create the lip later. Then I'll create the inner fender well pieces and weld them in place prior to folding the outer fender lip. I know I need two layer for rigidity, but not sure if this is the "best" way to do it. I figure a bead roller would be best, but if a frog had wings... Any pointers are appreciated here. I've got lots of metal, so I'm fine with starting over if that's what's needed.
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You can't see it in this picture, but I have a cardboard template taped up out of the way. I tack in the patch then let the template hang down and draw the line. I know that how I'm doing it will work, but I'm curious if there is a faster/better way in lieu of fancy tools or preformed metal bits.
 
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Well I followed my Screwit philosophy and pressed on. I got one of the wheel arches pretty well back together. I wasn't sure if the method I had in mind would work or not, but I think it's turning out ok. Now just some finish welding and hit it with the flap disk and she's as good as used.
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Joined
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Spent a fair bit of time on the hood last night. The impact curled in the front drivers corner and got it out of whack pretty good. It was pushed back about 1.5 inches, so it took a fair bit of persuasion to get back in decent alignment. I stuck the 62 fender on it for alignment purposes, and then used the passenger front corner to create a template of the contours so I could set the template onto the hood and see how close I was/wasn't. Turns out what I saw as nearly perfect was very much not so. Then I spent another hour or so getting the skin back in close enough shape that I will be able to skim coat it and smooth it all out. It should only need a couple mm's of skim to smooth it all out now.

HoodDent.jpg

HoodDent2.jpg

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This was just a bunch of work with the hammer and dollies, after all the work with the big hammers and channel locks to get it close.

The rear wheel well is coming along. I'm buttoning up the lip and have cut it back. It's very strong with just a single layer of sheet metal. Once I start welding up all the tabs I was surprised at just how rigid it was, pleasantly surprised actually. I will still probably add another layer since I will have some gaps on the inner fender to fill and I'll be welding in there anyway.

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Progress is good, and it's so much easier to work on a truck with so little rust.
 

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