Getting cold feet about the jump from 4Runner to 100 Series (2 Viewers)

[ColonBowel]

So Monday I’m all set to buy the 100 Series pictured as my profile pic. I have an 04’ 4Runner now closing in on 300k miles. The Land Cruiser I’m buying is a 99’ with 154k miles. I’ve been looking for one for a long time and this one is right down the street and seems to be fairly priced at $12k. However, the more I talk to this guy selling it (I do trust him), the more I’m getting cold feet. The good is that the belt was changed 10k miles ago, was painted within the last year and rims and tires replaced within past year. The bad is the two front doors need new motors, the gauge cluster needs to be replaced or rebuilt (according to mechanic), there’s sometimes a small leak inside the car under the passenger dashboard when the AC is running and the rear wiper doesn’t work (it gets stuck in either on or off and you can’t control it without cutting power to it). As far as the gauge cluster the only reason I found out is the E Brake light is always on, and the seller said the LC specialist who looked at it said the gauge cluster isn’t working properly and would need to be replaced. Sounds odd, but LC owners swear by this mechanic. I don’t even know if this is something I’d worry about if it’s only ever the brake light but If it ever turned into speedometer/odometer issues then I’d need to have it fixed. The AC leak seems like it could just be a clog and it’s condensation but who knows. I used to have a Jeep with this issue and it turned into a big problem. Long story short the more I think about this the more i feel like this sounds like a project, and I’m not looking for a project. I don’t mind having a couple things fixed if the seller can come down in price but I really don’t want a LC that’s gonna be a time suck. I’m new to this forum for this very reason and just wanted to see what more experienced 100 series owners think. Here’s some more pics

 

[JunkCrzr89]

The bad is the two front doors need new motors, the gauge cluster needs to be replaced or rebuilt (according to mechanic), there’s sometimes a small leak inside the car under the passenger dashboard when the AC is running and the rear wiper doesn’t work (it gets stuck in either on or off and you can’t control it without cutting power to it). As far as the gauge cluster the only reason I found out is the E Brake light is always on, and the seller said the LC specialist who looked at it said the gauge cluster isn’t working properly and would need to be replaced. Sounds odd, but LC owners swear by this mechanic. I don’t even know if this is something I’d worry about if it’s only ever the brake light but If it ever turned into speedometer/odometer issues then I’d need to have it fixed.

Door motors: You talking about the locks? If so, the motors inside the lock actuators are $10/motor and you can fix yourself.

E-brake light: Doesn’t sound like bad cluster to me. Could just be low on brake fluid, which would kick the light on.

Pass side AC leak: IIRC, that’s typically a cheap fix. Something like evaporator or clogged drain line or something like that. I’m sure somebody else will chime in.

Rear wiper: This is obviously an electrical issue that should be fairly easy to diagnose and fix. Broken switch at steering wheel, loose or broken wire, faulty relay, etc.

If I were you, I’d use all these problems as bargaining chips to bring the price down further.

4th gen 4runner ain’t on the same level as a 100.

 

[ColonBowel]

So basically when you hit the door lock button, the back doors lock but the front two doors won't lock. This problem is exacerbated in warm weather. I've read that this is a weak lock motor (actuator i guess is correct term, not sure), but not sure exactly what would be needed.

 

[ramangain]

What does the underside look like? Any rust? Does it seem to have a non-OEM coating on it?

When in doubt, pay for a PPI. Then you get a documented list of problems and repair costs as bargaining chips.

 

[FxFormat]

Everything you're concerning about is very minor and inexpensive to fix, can't expect a 20 year old truck to be perfect, talk him down to 10K grab it and enjoy it.

 

[MJK]

We own a bunch of Yota SUVs in our family - Rav4, Highlander, V8 4runner and LX470. The 100 is by far my favorite, but it is also the most thirsty and expensive to maintain if you are not willing to DIY. As long as you know that going in, I suspect you'll be happy camper.

$12k for the vehicle you are describing seems like too much money to me. Either PPI and negotiate towards $12k 'fixed', or cast a wider net to get the right one.

Why was it painted? That seems an odd thing to do while leaving all the rest of that stuff broken.

 

[Pucker5]

Paint looks rad fixes seem to be small ones but I’m always curious why any car was fully painted.

 

[spc7669]

I agree with MJK that getting a paint job before fixing the other stuff is a bit odd. None of those repairs seem very major and wouldn’t scare me away. The price is a bit high but not in the realm of crazy. An inspection would be a good move just for your own peace of mind.

 

[GTV]

If I was paying $12k for a '99 it would need to be mint, low mileage and have a locker.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Agreed on paint job. That's suspicious. I'd find out why. A full paint job anywhere near OEM quality is $10k+. A quick and dirty (but high quality) singe stage, maybe half that. A cheap paint job to hide problems is $1k and is going to look like a cheap job in a couple years (peeling edges, varying orange peel, etc...). Agreed with others price is a little high to have those kinds of problems with locks and cluster and wipers.

If it has a rear locker and minimal/no rust, get the price down to 10-11k and enjoy it. If it's got rust, no go. No locker? No go.

FWIW, I'm planning on listing my self-proclaimed "very well maintained" 99 for $12-13k with 280k miles, a rear bumper, sliders, and nice stereo. It has no weird problems. Locks/windows/wipers/lights/cluster all work like normal. $12k for a 98-99 should get you a very nice and trouble-free car that's been well cared-for. Miles don't matter too much with these - they're built very well. You'll find 300k+ cars that are nicer than a non-maintained 150k mile 100.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I just bought a 99 100 to replace my 97 3rd gen runner DD. I‘Ve also owned two 80 series of similar vintage. Must say the 4runners require the absolute least maintenance of any of them, the door locks all work strong, windows go up and down fast, everything just works. My 92, 97, and 99 LCs have all required much more love.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Oh also, I’d almost prefer OEM paint even if faded or clear coat flaking. At least you know what you have. Like said above, a cheap macco job is gonna look worse before long.

 

[ls6]

Ehh, i would keep looking and go with your gut feeling. Just for comparison, i paid $12k for a 2006 LX with 154k @ a dealership. i had a PPI done and used the issues it had to get the dealer to lower the price a little.

 

[bozncsurf]

So Monday I’m all set to buy the 100 Series pictured as my profile pic. I have an 04’ 4Runner now closing in on 300k miles. The Land Cruiser I’m buying is a 99’ with 154k miles. I’ve been looking for one for a long time and this one is right down the street and seems to be fairly priced at $12k. However, the more I talk to this guy selling it (I do trust him), the more I’m getting cold feet. The good is that the belt was changed 10k miles ago, was painted within the last year and rims and tires replaced within past year. The bad is the two front doors need new motors, the gauge cluster needs to be replaced or rebuilt (according to mechanic), there’s sometimes a small leak inside the car under the passenger dashboard when the AC is running and the rear wiper doesn’t work (it gets stuck in either on or off and you can’t control it without cutting power to it). As far as the gauge cluster the only reason I found out is the E Brake light is always on, and the seller said the LC specialist who looked at it said the gauge cluster isn’t working properly and would need to be replaced. Sounds odd, but LC owners swear by this mechanic. I don’t even know if this is something I’d worry about if it’s only ever the brake light but If it ever turned into speedometer/odometer issues then I’d need to have it fixed. The AC leak seems like it could just be a clog and it’s condensation but who knows. I used to have a Jeep with this issue and it turned into a big problem. Long story short the more I think about this the more i feel like this sounds like a project, and I’m not looking for a project. I don’t mind having a couple things fixed if the seller can come down in price but I really don’t want a LC that’s gonna be a time suck. I’m new to this forum for this very reason and just wanted to see what more experienced 100 series owners think. Here’s some more pics

View attachment 2368874

View attachment 2368875

A/C condenser drain leak

All, I have been searching through the forums trying to find a solution to a leak in my passenger side foot well. It appears to be coming from the A/C condenser. Sunroof drains are fine, fluid is definitely water, and it only happens when the AC is running. Water is draining about 50% through...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[JunkCrzr89]

So basically when you hit the door lock button, the back doors lock but the front two doors won't lock. This problem is exacerbated in warm weather. I've read that this is a weak lock motor (actuator i guess is correct term, not sure), but not sure exactly what would be needed.

Just the motor inside the actuator needs replaced
Amazon product ASIN B00CM10NE8

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There is a 23 page post on the forum about this if you need more information like which motors you need (although at this point there seems to be a one size fits all solution for the motor from member jonharis). Door Lock Actuator Replacement It took me forever to get through it. I thought I...

forum.ih8mud.com

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forum.ih8mud.com

 

[100d ua]

That seems like a lot for a 99.. mileage isn't bad but being in NC I would make sure there's not any major rust. I bought my 2000 with 220k miles for $6900, for comparison.

Also, most of the issues you mentioned aren't anything major. The cluster should be a priority and then maybe the rear wipe. I honestly have only used my rear wiper 2-3 times in the last year. It's probably a frayed wire along the hatch lid.

I would keep looking or get a significant discount on the price. GL.

 

[BadReligion]

Rear wiper issue is likely the motor. That is a pretty easy fix. Water on the PS floor is likely plugged front evaporator drain. Another easy fix...but I think the price is really high for a '99 and the new paint sounds somewhat suspicious. I just saw a rust free '06 LX470 listed locally for $13k. Has 220k mi but original owner and dealer maintained from day one. That has me tempted.....wanted to give you a comparison in that price range.

 

[ColonBowel]

Thanks everybody. As far as paint, he showed me pics of the paint before and it just looked dull. Nothing super fishy to me there. It was a middle of the road paint job, not the cheap Maaco job and not the premier body shop either. As far as price, I felt like i could be overpaying for it, but have been intrigued by the car because the guy lives down the street, i see him taking care of it, he's got service records and so on. That being said, it sounds like i probably need to look around a little more and find one with no issues if I'm willing to spend $12k. Thanks for everybodys responses.

 

[ramangain]

LX in FL

If that is rust free, passes a PPI, and has a decent service history, it could be worth the trip

 

[ramangain]

LX in Jax

This, on the other hand, is a bit cheeky. IMHO