- Thread starter
- #41
Ok that’s what I was wondering also - I didn’t know if this thing on top of the coil was the igniter or not. So now I know it’s not? … where would I find my igniter? lol, i think I’m finding out I don’t have one?
Getting car started after carb rebuild (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kschep
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- Thread starter
- #42
Instead of having line from igniter to distributor it has a line from negative coil post to distributor, the main distributor line obviously is correct coming out of front of coil. That must be a work around from PO, Bec he didn’t have igniter?
What year and model?
- Thread starter
- #44
1976 40 series
Does anyone have picture of their igniter so I can see what it looks like , where it’s supposed to be etc?
Does anyone have picture of their igniter so I can see what it looks like , where it’s supposed to be etc?
1958-8/87 FJ40, FJ45, FJ55 and FJ60 Land Cruiser Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Coil, Igniter - OEM and Aftermarket - Specter Off-Road
Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and to the newest Land Cruiser, Non USA or domestic 40 Series, 60 Series 80 Series or 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in...
Semi-transistorized ignition. Coil, resistor (firewall-side), and igniter (top of coil, front)
77mustard40
SILVER Star
OP, let's get a pic of the DS fender showing the wire harness along the fender. You should have a wire near the brake MC that is your source of keyed ignition for the solenoid. I'm going from memory here but it comes out of the harness right were the wires to the MC come out. I converted from aftermarket to a '76 carb a long time ago and that's were I found the single wire source.
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- #48
I’m sorry, “MC”?
77mustard40
SILVER Star
brake master cylinder
- Thread starter
- #50
Omg so f-ing annoying … back to not wanting to stay starting - one full turnover aka fires once and off .. won’t stay on - leads to hmm solenoid… but no, it’s clicking , my coil has volts , my resister has volts , my continuity between wires to fuse block is good.
I’m finding out I don’t have an igniter…but the car fired and worked previously without so that can’t be the only reason. I need help. F-ing a
I’m finding out I don’t have an igniter…but the car fired and worked previously without so that can’t be the only reason. I need help. F-ing a
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The hole the solenoid threads into on the 2F carbs is a standard metric size. You can replace it with a short metric bolt for testing, and that will remove the solenoid from the idle diagnostics.
- Thread starter
- #52
Here are pics requested.
So you mean take out solenoid and put a bolt in its place - and how does that help me test again? Something about removing it from diagnostics?
After all the back and forth so far, I am centering around my coil/igniter/ballast as the issue here and the wiring between them. I found out I do not have an igniter therefore the wire that goes to distributor from igniter comes from the coil now (-) post .. the main one to distributor out the front of coil is obviously correct. Is that a sound workaround or was PO just wishing? I’ve never addressed this area as I’ve never traced any problems back to it until now.
The care fires and rumbles one single time and off - doesn’t wanna keep going…
So you mean take out solenoid and put a bolt in its place - and how does that help me test again? Something about removing it from diagnostics?
After all the back and forth so far, I am centering around my coil/igniter/ballast as the issue here and the wiring between them. I found out I do not have an igniter therefore the wire that goes to distributor from igniter comes from the coil now (-) post .. the main one to distributor out the front of coil is obviously correct. Is that a sound workaround or was PO just wishing? I’ve never addressed this area as I’ve never traced any problems back to it until now.
The care fires and rumbles one single time and off - doesn’t wanna keep going…
Last edited:
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Put a volt meter on the brown connector by the MC to see if that is the wire to your solenoid, i.e. does it get keyed 12V? I know its too short but that looks like it could be the original source for the solenoid.
I seem to recall that in a previous thread you had problems with the key switch and the wiring.
First of all, make sure that you have the correct Toyota wiring diagram for your model and year.
Then I'd suggest looking closer at your ignition switch wiring.....
When you start the truck (key in start position) the coil is fed directly with 12V from the key switch.
But...
As soon as you release the key, the coil is now powered via the 'On' position on the key switch, and this is fed through the ballast resistor.
If the engine cuts out a soon as you release the key, then either the key switch is not working quite as it should, or the wiring is interrupted, or the ballast resistor has died.
Most likely you have disturbed a wire somewhere near the coil.
First of all, make sure that you have the correct Toyota wiring diagram for your model and year.
Then I'd suggest looking closer at your ignition switch wiring.....
When you start the truck (key in start position) the coil is fed directly with 12V from the key switch.
But...
As soon as you release the key, the coil is now powered via the 'On' position on the key switch, and this is fed through the ballast resistor.
If the engine cuts out a soon as you release the key, then either the key switch is not working quite as it should, or the wiring is interrupted, or the ballast resistor has died.
Most likely you have disturbed a wire somewhere near the coil.
- Thread starter
- #55
That’s my wiper fluid plug I believe .. based on wires colors and diagram .. but I’ll check that for you real quick anyways. Ya those are my “blues” - wire colors - and those are part of the wipers lines. I pulled the wiper fluid tank and that’s its hook up. Checked off
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- #56
You’re absolutely right I’ve had problems with this system previously - which is the source of my frustration … you saying that it might be the ballast resister makes some sense & I did see some smoke coming off it when I accidentally switched the wire from pos to neg post. But testing for volts when I fire the car it’s showing volts. So I don’t think it’s toast.
I turn the key forward one position and the car does nothing - no volts anywhere .. is that an indicator of anything?
But yes, cuts off as soon as it fires and key goes back to forward one turn.
You don't get power to the radio or the cigarette lighter as shown on the toyota wiring diagram?
These ballasts do take a lot of abuse. If you've made it smoke then that won't have helped it.
If you turn the key to the ON position, do you measure 12V at the coil?
If you turn the key to the ON position, do you measure 12V at the coil?
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- #59
On position - if that means one click forward - no volts
2nd click and engine turn - yes volts at coil
- Thread starter
- #60
Per engine manual I will test resistance at coil to see if it’s btw 1.3-1.6 . Says to replace if not in that range.
Also says to see if volts @ resister terminal when key is on “on” position - as you have just mentioned 45Dougal - and if no volts to check wires or ignition switch. I’ve checked wires over and over and so I’m thinking this might be a combo of ignition switch issue as well as ballast resister/igniter issue? I’m gunna retest the volts at resister when key is on … but per manual does key-on mean one click or 2nd position which provides an attempt of the engine to fire? I know we just spoke about this so I’m just confirming what the manual means by on position.
On a side note: Would there be any reason for a FJ40 to not have an igniter? Is that a spareable part meaning if you don’t have one just do this … “x” … ? Or is that something i should jump on right away and get ready to wire it in?
Also says to see if volts @ resister terminal when key is on “on” position - as you have just mentioned 45Dougal - and if no volts to check wires or ignition switch. I’ve checked wires over and over and so I’m thinking this might be a combo of ignition switch issue as well as ballast resister/igniter issue? I’m gunna retest the volts at resister when key is on … but per manual does key-on mean one click or 2nd position which provides an attempt of the engine to fire? I know we just spoke about this so I’m just confirming what the manual means by on position.
On a side note: Would there be any reason for a FJ40 to not have an igniter? Is that a spareable part meaning if you don’t have one just do this … “x” … ? Or is that something i should jump on right away and get ready to wire it in?
