Georgia 1980 FJ40 Build Thread w/ Cummins R28 Diesel (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Threads
9
Messages
35
Location
Dahlonega, GA
Well here we go. A little history on this FJ. Bought this a few months back from a fellow whom worked overseas, yes...S. America FJ out of Peru. He owned the vehicle for 5 years, brought it back with him and it sat in storage for a few years. Story goes wife wanted him to sell it, to which my response was "you can always get rid of the wife", lol.

Anywho, went and looked at it and since it had been sitting in storage for some time, it was running a little rough, but the body looked in decent shape from what I could see at the time. We drove it around the block, checked the 4-wheel drive, etc. and it all seemed good-to-go. Came back a week later and picked it up for a decent price. Took the FJ to a local mechanic friend of mine, and he showed me how to do a general tune up, change all the fluids, new battery, etc. We did so and the vehicle came to life running significantly better day-after-day the more I drove it. Drove it for about 3 weeks and then decided I was going to start restoring it.

Now keep in mind, I have never worked on a car, ever, period. It has always been a goal of mine to learn how do to so to teach/learn how to become more mechanically inclined. So I enlisted the help of a buddy or two, and just started diving in the last two weeks. My goals with this resto-mod/build are straightforward and simple:
  1. To learn how to be more mechanically inclined
  2. To fully understand ever square inch of this ride, and attain the satisfaction knowing that this has been done by me, for me
  3. To build the FJ I have always wanted since I was a kid and originally fell in love with these trucks
So, i figured since this will be a process (keep in mind I am giving myself 6 months to start/finish) worth documenting, I am starting this thread as I am sure I will have questions along the way. I hope to attain knowledge from you all as I build this out. So, please enjoy the thread, the pics, the posts, etc. I enjoy comments, and will answer any/all question to the best of my ability. So without further ado, I present ya'll my FJ40 that I am starting with.

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So started pulling the FJ completely apart to start the restoration. This came with a massive bumper/plate on the front. When i removed it, I instantly noticed something was off....as in the entire frame from the forward front leafspring mount forward was crooked as all hell. The frame was reinforced from the leafspring all the way back to the trans mount. Clearly this frame that was used to build this truck was abused. I know, I know, S. American FJ's. No need to remind me. Here are a few pics:
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Anyways, not a big deal as since I knew when I got this I was going to go with a new frame from Aqualu. I gotta say, they mnake some nice frames. Amd their customer service goes above and beyond to answer any'all questions, and help along the way. Top notch folks up there in Canada. I received the frame a few weeks ago, and from time of order, to build, ship and deliver it took 5 weeks. Not bad at all. here are a few pics I just took of it, in the dark. Sorry bout that. Here ya go:
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This past weekend the weather cooperated, and was able to get a lot done. Completely removed the entire drain train, axles (starting rebuilding the rear), and removed all the interior. Even though the frame was a complete disaster, the body is in really good condition. Also received my order from Redline to include:
  1. Axle / diff rebuilt kits
  2. New leaf springs
  3. New suspension
  4. Disc brake conversion kits for both front & rear
  5. Rebuilt knuckles
  6. A few other odds and ends
Quick note, if you haven't worked with Redline, again, top notch folks and customer service. I will be going back to them for more parts as this proceeds.



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Great job so far. Maybe it is just the photo angel, but the rigging on that hoist looks a bit sketchy.
Must be the angle...It's reinforced up top, and the beams holding it all are 2x10's solid oak. I tested it all with 2 100lb. boxing punching bags, lifted it with ease, and no problem. I have a tendency to over engineer things like this, and this is definitely solid. Fingers crossed, lol.
 
Well, this is nice. Someone who sees things as they are. The frames from Aquala are the best way to go. The cummins 2.8 is as well. You have chosen the best path and congratulate you. Look forward to following.
 
:popcorn:
 
Great to see a N. GA build pop up! Congrats
Would you mind posting more photos of that dash setup?

Any plans for the wheel/tire combo?
 
You should drive a 40 with the 2.8 before jumping in. I wish I had, just to manage expectations. Not saying I don't like it, just wish my first time wasn't behind the wheel of my own rig.

I would put 3.70's in those axles.
They're apart, put in lockers.
Ditch the front drums.

Diesels don't rev very high. Mine defuels around 4k rpm. You'll want an overdrive because of that. H55 transmission and a split case transfer case is a common choice because of the length. Also a decent combo all around. Available brand new from Toyota.

With 3.70's, 31" tires, and the H55, I'm turning a hair over 2k rpm at 60mph.
It'll cruise at 70mph just fine, but limitations on steering geometry, center of gravity, wheelbase, and poor suspension design, triggers a self preservation response going much faster than that. 😆

I had power steering added to mine. Glad I was talked into it
You have to have a small lift.

There is Cummins, and then there is Cummins. This not an industrial engine. I believe this to be more consumer grade.
It requires a massive radiator to keep cool. When worked, it gets really hot, really fast. Too little cooling, it'll go into limp mode until temps drop. I don't expect it to live a lifetime of abuse the way a 6BT would.

Also, (I've gotten used to it), that engine vibrates like a mofo.

Disclaimer: I did zero of the installation work on this. It was hired out, and they did a far better job than I could have.


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You should drive a 40 with the 2.8 before jumping in. I wish I had, just to manage expectations. Not saying I don't like it, just wish my first time wasn't behind the wheel of my own rig.

I would put 3.70's in those axles.
They're apart, put in lockers.
Ditch the front drums.

Diesels don't rev very high. Mine defuels around 4k rpm. You'll want an overdrive because of that. H55 transmission and a split case transfer case is a common choice because of the length. Also a decent combo all around. Available brand new from Toyota.

With 3.70's, 31" tires, and the H55, I'm turning a hair over 2k rpm at 60mph.
It'll cruise at 70mph just fine, but limitations on steering geometry, center of gravity, wheelbase, and poor suspension design, triggers a self preservation response going much faster than that. 😆

I had power steering added to mine. Glad I was talked into it
You have to have a small lift.

There is Cummins, and then there is Cummins. This not an industrial engine. I believe this to be more consumer grade.
It requires a massive radiator to keep cool. When worked, it gets really hot, really fast. Too little cooling, it'll go into limp mode until temps drop. I don't expect it to live a lifetime of abuse the way a 6BT would.

Also, (I've gotten used to it), that engine vibrates like a mofo.

Disclaimer: I did zero of the installation work on this. It was hired out, and they did a far better job than I could have.


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What did you go with for the radiator set up? Interested in that, as its on my list to first tackle when I get the new engine. Also, I am going w/ the H55 Transmission, as well as already have ditched the drum brakes all around and have disc brakes to replace them. Got a small lift as well....so I think I have already covered your above points with all new parts...thanks a ton for the pointers....might hit you up wit ha few more questions as I progress sir.
 
What did you go with for the radiator set up? Interested in that, as its on my list to first tackle when I get the new engine. Also, I am going w/ the H55 Transmission, as well as already have ditched the drum brakes all around and have disc brakes to replace them.


I'll have to measure the radiator. The shroud is important too. That was custom fab'd

I don't see an advantage to disc on these in the rear. But that's just my opinion
 
I would go +8/80 drums, especially a 1980 that already has floor mounted handle. It may even already have them.
 

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