general advice, tips re: complete "baseline/rebuild" (1 Viewer)

[manofthewoods]

Cliff notes version...
'97 LX 450 w/~372k miles. triple locked. PO took good care; no rust, runs good now, passed CA smog a few months ago. Likely did head gasket and other work but not sure.

I'm going to do at least: Brakes, axle seals, bearings, Pinion seals (bearings?), U joints, brake lines, bushings AND pull engine & Trans to do needed head work., bottom end bearings, rings (pistons?) etc. etc. A specific question is: when I park for the project, should I have both axles locked for any work I'll do (like complete Birf's, etc.)?

My goal is to have a "tight" well performing vehicle that when I take overlanding I won't be constantly worried about. I'm really excited to get into it. I've done this kind of thing many moons ago, albeit on a Honda. Of course I have FSM's and access to videos, but...

I'm wondering if you've got any general tips, suggestions, "wish I wodda's." Not looking for exact steps, though links or search suggestion would be great. If nothing else a little MUD moral support
cheers,
keith

 

[Road Apple]

Welcome to MUD!! Sounds like you’re going all in for a full restoration under the hood and drive train. I like your thinking, though not sure I’d dig into the bottom end unless you have a specific need to, though 372k maybe reason enough. Have you checked the compression?

Pretty sure you’ll want the differentials locked to pull the gears. You can lock the diff’s in about 20 minutes with a screw driver also.

While you in the there, a set of RCV 4340 chromoly front axles and drive flanges would beef up the front end. A set of ARP knuckle and hub stubs are cheap insurance. 2 sets of Wits’ End “Nut Huggers” to keep your knuckle nuts tight.

I assume you’re replacing the water and oil pumps? Front main seal, fusible link, heater control valve, distributor O-ring, motor mounts, power steering hoses, alternator, starter, all rubber under the hood. I’m sure you have a long list of parts not mentioned above.

Since your replacing the u-joints, I’d consider retubing the driveshafts to .120 or .180 walls, depending on the hardness of the tubing,
at a local driveline shop.

A set of Sumo 3.1:1 Low Range reduction gears from Cruiser Outfitters will give you more control in the rocks.

These aren’t necessary upgrades for overlanding, but living in Sacramento, you’re likely to be on the highway 80, 50, and 88 trails at some point in the future.

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