Geatbox rising oil leve (1 Viewer)

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So the theory is that the transmission is leaking fluid, but the fluid level in the transmission is going up??
:) before actual leaking, yes it was rising level
I divide situation on 2 phases

1. Level started rising around 200 miles slowly after all maintenances, then first leaking on ~600 miles
After firs leaking level continue rising, but there was no leaking at all for about ~600 miles
2. Second leaking and it was continuously leaking, i did check the level but as you guess it was on running engine but it was on cold, where level was high than max of cold.

After I saw that leaking continuously, I stopped driving the car, only small 2~3 miles to service.
So how I did the measurments of the oil
Start driving outside the town, ~20 miles, then a bit in the town ~15 mins with trafic
And then in my garage when car is sitting 2~5 mins in idle shifted on Rear. Outside was not cold, it was spring.
I hope next week the mechanic in service to start working on it, so I will have some info to share.
 
And then in my garage when car is sitting 2~5 mins in idle shifted on Rear.

Did you check the fluid level with the transmission in Reverse??

The correct method to check the transmission fluid level, after driving the vehicle for 15-20 minutes/miles, is to put the transmission shift selector into the PARK position (with engine running at idle).

Vehicle should be parked on a level surface
Pull out the dipstick
Wipe off dipstick with a clean lint free cloth
Insert dipstick back into the tube making sure it seats all the way in
Count to three
Pull the dipstick out
Hold the stick slightly downward (so the fluid doesn't run up the stick)
Read the level.

Repeat above procedure to check the first reading.
 
The correct method to check the transmission fluid level, after driving the vehicle for 15-20 minutes/miles, is to put the transmission shift selector into the PARK position
Good catch. Don't forget to run the shifter through every position, too.

LandCruiser-TransmissionFluidLevelCheck.png
 
I am with @gummycarbs with this, if the transfer oil is not going down then it is not oil from there. Check to see if the breather is blocked, pulling the dipstick (depending on your version) would release the pressure anyway, if yours has the pressure vent on top of the gearbox then the pressure could be forcing the oil to climb the dipstick but again very unlikely. following the procedure correctly would be a good start. The radiator failure is almost certainly the cause assuming you are allowing for fluid expansion, transmission fluid is the same as power steering fluid, they both expand as they heat up.


Regards

Dave
 
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Yaeh, sorry guys I always measure when it's on Park, my mistake to write rear.
Actually I can't mesure it on rear alone :)

But I only move shifter from D to P, never did to all positions, this is something new for me, thanks.
 
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1. Red fluid coming from the bell housing. It is very easy to damage the torque converter seal (seal between the transmission and torque converter). If the trans was pulled for the crank shaft seal. It is possible the torque converter was removed, which in turn damaged the seal (remove trans, replace the TQ seal)
2. Rising fluid level. Overfilled, with foaming trans fluid.
3. The new filter is clogged or slow flowing, which reflects on the dip stick level (drop the pan, change filter)

Visual comments. The partial transmission pan picture. The pan looks dirty (was the pan actually removed?). Also, wipe of the wet oil and grease from the oil pan, transmission pan and bell housing. Then carefully inspect the areas for wet oil signs after driving. Is there an oil trail above the pan? (over filled foaming oil from the breather). The breather port is at the top of the transmission...

If the trans pan is dry and the bell housing is wet (red oil), the TQ Seal is leaking or oil pump housing (also behind the TQ). However, the overfilled condition needs to be addressed first. As this could be the root cause of the leak (breather). Where the oil drips and the actual oil leak can be two completely different areas. Going back to the previous comments. You will only get about 6 quarts of fluid from the pan. Where the transmission holds about 16 quarts total. It is possible the person who refilled the transmission, over filled it and the leak is coming from the top of the transmission. The breather port is about one inch back from where the bell housing mounts to the transmission body.
 
Hey legends,
I have update. During last few months with my mechanic inspected the gear box and we changed the radiator with oem since no other logical explanation of rising oil. When we removed the coolant we saw that there was some mixture between coolant and gearbox oil. Coolant was 1k miles old and it became on 2 lawers on bottle when we remove it.
But that's not all. We decided to open the gear box. Another mechanic opened it last week and there is some info which explains why box started leaking while the seal was brand new.
There are a few brocken disks inside, the thermostad of hydro pump was also not working which makes pump working on high pressure all the time and which probably cause a brocken sleeve on pump and this was causing leaking which can't be stopped from rubber seals even if they are brand new.
So in base lines this was discovered and explains all things. When I get the carr, hope in next 2-3 weeks I will post my experience with renewed gearbox.
Cheers
 
Got photos of the "broken discs"??

@nestor Can you get in writing from your mechanic what he found and what he plans to fix and post that up?
 
Hey legends,
I have update. During last few months with my mechanic inspected the gear box and we changed the radiator with oem since no other logical explanation of rising oil. When we removed the coolant we saw that there was some mixture between coolant and gearbox oil. Coolant was 1k miles old and it became on 2 lawers on bottle when we remove it.
But that's not all. We decided to open the gear box. Another mechanic opened it last week and there is some info which explains why box started leaking while the seal was brand new.
There are a few brocken disks inside, the thermostad of hydro pump was also not working which makes pump working on high pressure all the time and which probably cause a brocken sleeve on pump and this was causing leaking which can't be stopped from rubber seals even if they are brand new.
So in base lines this was discovered and explains all things. When I get the carr, hope in next 2-3 weeks I will post my experience with renewed gearbox.
Cheers
The radiator has a section in it that is a "water to water" heat exchanger that uses the heat of the coolant to heat up the transmission fluid in cold weather and to stabilize it in hot weather. The coolant system operates under pressure, as it gets hot it builds between 12-17psi, this increases the boiling point of the coolant which prevents boilovers. HOWEVER, if the coolant to trans fluid "water to water" heat exchanger is damaged or has a crack it can cause cross-contamination.

MOREOVER when the engine gets hot and the coolant loop begins to build pressure it will FORCE coolant through the breach into the transmission oil cooler loop. This is the only way I can see that you're trans is "gaining oil". It also makes sense because your coolant level is measured within a WIDE range so a loss of coolant wouldn't be easily identifiable over a short inspection period, further the coolant that is pushed into the trans fluid loop would ultimately begin foaming in the trans causing a rise in line pressure and subsequent leaks.

That said, this actually isn't the worst thing. Yea coolant in the trans is bad but it's not terrible, it can cause some corrosion but it's not as bad as only coolant or no fluid at all, same goes for trans fluid in the coolant loop.

So it sounds like you need to replace your radiator and do full flushes of your coolant and transmission systems. And I'd probably repeat that flush in another 5,000mi to make sure you got all the cross-contamination cleared out.
 

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