Gearing option w/ OEM lockers (1 Viewer)

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So recently picked up a ‘95 x3 locked and have been looking into upgrades/mods and of course lift & tires are the first thing. With tires it seems like it would help to re-gear when you get into the 35” range, but with the factory lockers does this affect the ability to do that? Seems like the factory lockers work different than most and could change my options for gearing. Thanks in advance, still learning a lot haha
 
So recently picked up a ‘95 x3 locked and have been looking into upgrades/mods and of course lift & tires are the first thing. With tires it seems like it would help to re-gear when you get into the 35” range, but with the factory lockers does this affect the ability to do that? Seems like the factory lockers work different than most and could change my options for gearing. Thanks in advance, still learning a lot haha
It’s fine. Just call nitro or Yukon and get gears
 
It’s fine. Just call nitro or Yukon and get gears
Sweet! Yeah I’ve seen a few people mention that there isn’t different gears for ones with OEM lockers, but it was on ye old YouTube which isn’t nearly the around as here lol
 
Some carriers have a split. Meaning due to ring gear and pinion gear size the carrier will be for a set range of gears.

For the gears you'll want to run, the lockers will accept those gears.
 
Lots of us run 4.88s over 37" tires on factory 3x locked rigs which results in a final drive ratio virtually the same as stock/original.
 
Lots of us run 4.88s over 37" tires on factory 3x locked rigs which results in a final drive ratio virtually the same as stock/original.
What kind lift do you need for that tire size? 37” are probably overkill for intended use haha, but I think I wanna go up for 315
 
What kind lift do you need for that tire size? 37” are probably overkill for intended use haha, but I think I wanna go up for 315
Lifts don’t help you fit tires. I always recommend a 2” lift due to the short list of required supporting parts.
 
Transfer case gears are cheaper. Regearing the diffs is $2000 to $3000 depending on what part of the country you live. Regearing the t-case is about half that depending on how many sets you replace. Usually the t-case is removed and the work is done on the bench.

You can add a set of 25% low range reduction gears at the same time. They require grinding the case a small amount to clearance them. A noticeable difference crawling through the rocks.

Check out this thread for more on the discussion including good input from Otramm.

 
To be clear OEM lockers require a defferent set of gears then none locked
 
Lifts don’t help you fit tires. I always recommend a 2” lift due to the short list of required supporting parts.
Well, kinda. Lift allows for wheel travel. Upward travel
What kind lift do you need for that tire size? 37” are probably overkill for intended use haha, but I think I wanna go up for 315
We usually do a 4" lift for 37s. I am on 4" and 1" spring spacers, custom sway bar drops, and 2.5" bump stop spacers. When I am totally crossed up in the rocks I get a wee bit of rub in the top of my reat fenderwells, but no damage, xjust shinny spots.
 
Well, kinda. Lift allows for wheel travel. Upward travel

We usually do a 4" lift for 37s. I am on 4" and 1" spring spacers, custom sway bar drops, and 2.5" bump stop spacers. When I am totally crossed up in the rocks I get a wee bit of rub in the top of my reat fenderwells, but no damage, xjust shinny spots.
It’s a sticky subject filled with lots of caveats. But for simplicity I like saying that lifts don’t help you fit tires, bump stops do. With 35s, I rub the same amount with a 2” lift as I did with a 4” lift because full bump never changed.

But you’re totally right, more lift does equate to more uptravel so you can afford to add in bump stops and not cut into the body.
 
At the end of the day there’s no clear cut answer.
There’s just too many variables 🤷‍♂️
 

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