Hi all, I have to pull my tank (leaking) I've unbolted the straps, skid plate, disconnected hoses and fuel pump. Still can't get the tank to come down. Are there any tricks or something I'm missing? Any Ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
Gas tank removal/replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Scrapedknuckles
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- Thread starter
- #2
Hmmmm... anyone ever pull the gas tank?
I'd have to guess that the lack of responses suggests no one has encountered the issue you are seeing. The FSM doesn't show anything special, just hoses and straps. Is it empty? Could it simply be stuck to the floor pan? The FSM shows some 'fuel tank cushions' which I could see adhering to the tank and floor pan. Is it moving around, or firmly attached?
- Thread starter
- #4
Empty and not stuck to the floor. Just feels like its hitting something. I'll keep at it. Thanks
It’s a pita. Make sure the filler and the vent hoses are disconnected. After that it’s a matter of wrestling it out around the drive shaft. It doesn’t drop cleanly out, you have to manhandle it.
of course also be sure to disconnect the fuel pump from under the rear seat as well.
of course also be sure to disconnect the fuel pump from under the rear seat as well.
I just did this over the summer on a 94. Replaced everything between the filler cap to the engine compartment. I pulled the drive shaft and muffler for extra room.
remove the fill hose and vent hose at the rear of the tank and you will need to remove the drive shaft from the diff to get enough room to remove it. now would be a good time to replace the hoses that aren't easily accessible and i would check out the brake lines running to the rear as you will need to drop the tank to replace them.
jfz80
Cruisin’
I’ve pulled my tank many more times than I care to remember. It’s not that difficult but awkward. There are a couple step by step write ups on here but mostly just disconnecting all the ancillary pieces. It is worth the effort to drop the rear drive shaft for extra room though it’s doable without. Drop back end and tie it over to pass frame works too.
Rear filler and vent is typ most difficult to remove.
Under rear seats you have 3 lines and electric plug
Then it’s just the straps.
The perimeter flange makes it most difficult.
Have you ID’d the leak spot? There is a common one here
forum.ih8mud.com
Rear filler and vent is typ most difficult to remove.
Under rear seats you have 3 lines and electric plug
Then it’s just the straps.
The perimeter flange makes it most difficult.
Have you ID’d the leak spot? There is a common one here
leaking gas from top of tank
i took a look at these two threads IH8MUD™ Forums - Search Results but feel free to point out any others youve seen. I filled up last night to the tune of $100 bux and come out this morning and the cruiser smells strong of gas inside. I wrote it off as coming from the tool bags i just pulled...
forum.ih8mud.com
I just did this over the weekend. Pulled seats, disconnected supply, return and electrical from top. Disconnected other vent from below to the passenger side from the tank up high. loosen the driver control arm that 1" bolt/nut sticking through helps. lots of wiggling carefully. I pulled straps and then skid plate off first then removed the tank. Would have been a lot easier with the drive shaft out of the way, but I left it there since I got the old tank out pretty easy without removing it, replacement tank went in a lot harder than old came out.
ChaseTruck
--
Ditto on the left LCA bolt. When I did the tank replacement on the '93, I left the driveshaft in place, loosened the LCA bolt so it wasn't in the way, and pushed up on the drive shaft side of the gas tank to slightly tilt it downward on the frame side, and that was enough to get the old tank out.
