Gas Fuel Tanks, How to check inside? (1 Viewer)

[FishNinJay]

I have 2.. the MAIN is under the passenger seat. I have a big aluminum looking AUX tank under the rear.

http://yew.smugmug.com/Cars/FJ40/fj40aug9/608421627_KKUvE-M.jpg

Awhile back, I had some issues with tiny rust particles going into my whole fuel system.

I think it was from my AUX tank, but I'm not 100% sure.

I'm wondering what's the easiest way to check out the inside of my MAIN tank? See if any rust, debris, damage, pinholes, etc? need to reline? has it ever been lined? etc.

I can drop the aux tank pretty ez, and plan on cleaning it out and replacing the fuel lines from the aux tank forward. Can rust or debris form inside an aluminum tank? I think it's aluminum.. looks like it?

The MAIN tank looks like a PITA, and I'd have to remove the seats to get to it. Also, everything inside is rhino lined. If it works, should I just let sleeping dogs lie? I'm getting a new engine, and I kind of want to clean and/or swap out the entire fuel system for new and start everything new. Am I crazy?

Anyone know what year this tank is from? Someone local is asking $50 for it.

 

[pb4ugo]

My guess the rust is from the stk tank. Yes you have to pull the seats. You may be able to get it lined. Alum or SS won't rust. See if a magnet sticks to it. The 1 you pictured is for 73-78 model, I think. I purchased 1 from CDan. They are very reasonable if they are still available.

You can pull the sender and look inside.

 

[FishNinJay]

My guess the rust is from the stk tank. Yes you have to pull the seats. You may be able to get it lined. Alum or SS won't rust. See if a magnet sticks to it. The 1 you pictured is for 73-78 model, I think. I purchased 1 from CDan. They are very reasonable if they are still available.

You can pull the sender and look inside.

Hey thanks! My rig is 1971. Will this tank work?
I've seen poly tanks on eBay too for 73-78. I think from DentDepot or CruiserCorp? Anyone have any experience with these tanks? Maybe the fastest/easiest would be to swap in a new poly tank, then I can either sell the old tank or reline it and sell? Any disadvantage to the poly tanks?

Ok, as always.. Tanks for the advice!

 

[pb4ugo]

Do a search. I opted for stk steel, I read about alot of problems w/poly tanks.

 

[FJforty]

I wouldn't say that filter looks horrible, it is doing a good job, that's not much rust. Some folks like the lining approach, me I just wash them out and fill them up and keep my filters up to spec. You never really know what your going to pump in there at the station anyway. I wonder what's in that 3000 gallon steel tank that has been buried for 20 years at the gas station. They know filters.

 

[pb4ugo]

I used to run a glass filter until a friend noticed it, & he told me had 1 and unbeknowst to him, the glass broke & spewed gas all over the hot engine. Fortunatley it did not catch on fire.

 

[FishNinJay]

I used to run a glass filter until a friend noticed it, & he told me had 1 and unbenonst to him, the glass broke & spewed gas all over the hot engine. Fortunatley it did not catch on fire.

After my rusty fuel adventure, I got paranoid. I have TWO!

I cranked my engine to try an "wash out" my fuel pump, then I put glass inline filters before the fuel pump, and another one between fuel pump and my carb. I just noticed my glass inline filter before the carb is cracked and leaking drops of gas on my hoses and manifold!

Maybe I'll pick up this $50 used '73-78 tank, have it cleaned and lined, and swap it in there, just so I know that I'm starting with fresh clean tank and lines. I have to see if tank will fit my '71 or if it needs any mod.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think my new toyota tank shipped to me from Cruiser Dan was under $300. and was well worth it. The old 1 lasted over 35 yrs. Do a search, I think some have made the later tank work, you may need the filler hose too. Maybe someone else will know for sure.

 

[ducktapeguy]

Maybe I'll pick up this $50 used '73-78 tank, have it cleaned and lined, and swap it in there, just so I know that I'm starting with fresh clean tank and lines. I have to see if tank will fit my '71 or if it needs any mod.

If it's the same tank I saw on craigslist, I was thinking of doing the same thing. But after checking the price for refurbishing, I was getting quotes of $100- $125 just for relining, another $50-100 if it needed any pinhole repairs. For that cost, you're better off just buying a new, why spend that kind of money to get another 30 year old tank that might have other problems. Even the repros from CCOT are only $230. I still have my old OEM tank (75) that was replaced by the PO. There were a couple of pinholes in the bottom because I think it was sitting directly on the metal floor. It actually wasn't leaking until I decided to wirebrush the jb weld on the outside (in hindsight I should've just left it alone) just to see how bad it was. If you want it, you take it, maybe you can find someone to repair it for cheap. I was gonna cut it up and throw it in the trash.

I have a plastic tank in mine right now. I haven't had any problems with it, but I've read the stories. The plastic tank don't hold as much as the OEM tanks, I think they're only 12 gallons. If ever it starts giving me problems, I'm going back to steel. I may do it anyway just to get a little more fuel capacity.

 

[FishNinJay]

So I'm finally on this project.

I dropped my tank. It's a big ol' aluminum tank. It has a really old sender that I removed. Unfortunately, my new sender (Autometer) is a bit smaller, so looks like I have to cut a new hole.

I did a MUD and Google search, and it seems there are lots of DIY posts about how to clean aluminum fuel tanks. Most mention putting metal screws and/or chains inside to break up the rust. If it is aluminum, how does it rust?

That said, I did have rust particles inside, but I think it's coming from my steel filler neck, which has patches of rust that need to be cleaned up. (separate post)

My question here, do you think I need to do the chain/screws agitation to break up rust in an ALUMINUM tank? I was hoping to just wash the heck out of it with soap and water, and then forced air and fresh gas to dry it. Should I do the muriatic acid wash?

Peeking in the hole, it looks reasonably clean already?

Any tips on how to neutralize or get out that last bit of gas? I can't seem to empty it completely out due to the baffles.

Ok.. as always... THANKS!!
-Jay