Fzj80 with 1fzfe radiator upgrade (1 Viewer)

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Ecuador
hi, i have a FZJ80 with a 1FZ engine and i need to change my radiator.
Can anyone help me with some recommendations?
 
There has probably been 30 threads on that in the past month. Try a Koyorad.
 
Please realize he is in Ecuador. May be a bit limited on availability.
 
Ron Davis Radiator for the win.

I’ve been running mine for several months now. I am very happy with it.
Hey. Thinking if getting a Ron Davis for my 80. I am confused by the pic for the radiator I found on his site that will fit an 80. It does not show all the connectors. Does the one you bought match your stock radiator as far as where fluid enters and exits the radiator, mounting holes, etc?
 
Hey. Thinking if getting a Ron Davis for my 80. I am confused by the pic for the radiator I found on his site that will fit an 80. It does not show all the connectors. Does the one you bought match your stock radiator as far as where fluid enters and exits the radiator, mounting holes, etc?

yes, everything matched up.
 
There has probably been 30 threads on that in the past month. Try a Koyorad.
I spent a good amount of time last nite reading radiator threads. I could not find what i was looking fore. I like to know before and after temps with said radiators.
Just like post #3 it's nice that jjdeneen918 is happy with his Ron Davis but I would like to hear some real world numbers. Like when it's 100+ out side in stop and go traffic with the AC on what are the Eng temps running.
Ron Davis Radiator for the win.

I’ve been running mine for several months now. I am very happy with it.
Could you please post some real world numbers on Eng temps is severe conditions.
 
Go oem and never look back. Find it online and save 30 percent.
My system works perfect in normal driving conditions. I would like to be able to drive up Thompson Hill without worrying about it overheating.
I was running my AC on our last trip but had to turn it off a few times when Eng temps reached 210 - 215.
If a Hi performance aftermarket radiator would fix that I would be interested. ;)
 
In a weekend or two hopefully I'll be going out to the desert with a my digital temp gauge on the outlet pipe. Won't be super hot but should be over 90 degrees, but My AC is fixed and I'll be running it the whole time as we go up. (probably 4,000 feet in elevation over the course of an hour-not super aggressive but its what I have to test with).

I have a koyo 3 row brass and a blue fan clutch with 7k cst fluid. (the stock fluid should be 3k cst). I don't think I have ever seen temperatures over 200F, even when going up the grapevine in california on a 90 degree day. (a 5 mile, 6% grade known for overheating vehicles)
 
Are you running aluminum or copper
TRAD aluminum. Copper absorbs heat more rapidly but AL gives up heat quicker. I ran a CSF copper core radiator for 2.5 years. It’s a well built unit but, as many have reported, it can’t cope when the going gets tough.

I gave consideration to a Ron Davis radiator..... the cost was Not dollar appropriate. Think about synthetic oil. Do we need it? No. Is is it better? I guess so. Do most users surpass the capability of dinosaur oil? No. Will you ever spend enough time on Thompson hill to make an $1100 radiator a lagit “upgrade”? No. RCV shafts? Yes.
 
There are just so many variables, I think it would be impossible to say accurate before and after and attribute it solely to the radiator. I have been very happy with the Koyorad. It has only been to 212 sitting in Moab traffic with A/C on in 116 degrees. Runs 178-187 otherwise.
 
My system works perfect in normal driving conditions. I would like to be able to drive up Thompson Hill without worrying about it overheating.
I was running my AC on our last trip but had to turn it off a few times when Eng temps reached 210 - 215.
If a Hi performance aftermarket radiator would fix that I would be interested. ;)

Curious, what RPM‘s and loads are you running at? The harder the hill the cooler I run, because I keep my load down and RPM’s up, usually in the high 180’s to low 190’s F. I will run 3,900k in 2nd/high range, or for extreme example, 2 weeks ago I had to use low range, same RPM’s but only 29mph lol. Was a big ass climb, and I still have stock gears.... (stock radiator/blue hub-20k(?) fluid)
 
Curious, what RPM‘s and loads are you running at? The harder the hill the cooler I run, because I keep my load down and RPM’s up, usually in the high 180’s to low 190’s F. I will run 3,900k in 2nd/high range, or for extreme example, 2 weeks ago I had to use low range, same RPM’s but only 29mph lol. Was a big ass climb, and I still have stock gears.... (stock radiator/blue hub-20k(?) fluid)
In all honesty My 80 is a street legal trail Reg, Thompson hill is the hardest part of The Dusy Ershim trail. low speed relentless rock crawling.
When it starts to get hot in those conditions I put in neutral and bum it up to around 1800 RPMs and the temps start drop immediately back to normal.
I running a modified blue hub and the cooling system is all new oem except the Koyorad. ;)
 
In all honesty My 80 is a street legal trail Reg, Thompson hill is the hardest part of The Dusy Ershim trail. low speed relentless rock crawling.
When it starts to get hot in those conditions I put in neutral and bum it up to around 1800 RPMs and the temps start drop immediately back to normal.
I running a modified blue hub and the cooling system is all new oem except the Koyorad. ;)

Ah, sorry. I was thinking paved hwy.....
 
I spent a good amount of time last nite reading radiator threads. I could not find what i was looking fore. I like to know before and after temps with said radiators.
Just like post #3 it's nice that jjdeneen918 is happy with his Ron Davis but I would like to hear some real world numbers. Like when it's 100+ out side in stop and go traffic with the AC on what are the Eng temps running.

Could you please post some real world numbers on Eng temps is severe conditions.

I'll give you the numbers I have from a '94 purchased with 277k and the original brass radiator. Temp readings are from a Toyocom, stock fan and coolant wass Prestone green.

1st readings (average) from November - January in Las Vegas
Highway speeds (65-70mph) and no AC: 186F (max 187F)
City driving and no AC: 191F (Max 194F)

That radiator cracked while offroading in January 2020 and I installed a Koyorad A1918. Coolant was Prestone green

2nd readings started in June when it regularly gets well over 100F in Las Vegas
Highway speeds with AC: 194F (Max 196F)
City driving with AC: 199F (Max 206F)
Idling with AC: Max 212F

The Koyorad only lasted until July. I slugged the motor going up an off-road mountain pass and blew the top (I know, I should have been in a lower gear...). This time, I went back and purchased a used original brass radiator (cash was tight) and used Peak Final Charge Global Extended Life red coolant after flushing the system with distilled water.

3rd set of readings from June-August in and around Las Vegas
Highway speeds with AC: 194F (Max 196F)
City driving with AC: 196F (Max 204F)
Idling with AC: Max 212F

Personally, I didn't see a significant performance difference between the stock brass radiator and the A1918, and I know that I said that the brass radiator was better than the Koyorad, but that's because the original brass radiator lasted the PO and myself nearly 280k miles before it crapped out. Until someone says their koyorad has lasted for about that long, the OEM has the edge despite new ones being about double the price. Still, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a Koyorad. Just don't overtax the motor like I did and I think you'll be fine.
 
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I'll give you the numbers I have from a '94 purchased with 277k and the original brass radiator. Temp readings are from a Toyocom, stock fan and coolant wass Prestone green.

1st readings (average) from November - January in Las Vegas
Highway speeds (65-70mph) and no AC: 186F (max 187F)
City driving and no AC: 191F (Max 194F)

That radiator cracked while offroading in January 2020 and I installed a Koyorad A1918. Coolant was Prestone green

2nd readings started in June when it regularly gets well over 100F in Las Vegas
Highway speeds with AC: 194F (Max 196F)
City driving with AC: 199F (Max 206F)
Idling with AC: Max 212F

The Koyorad only lasted until July. I slugged the motor going up an off-road mountain pass and blew the top (I know, I should have been in a lower gear...). This time, I went back and purchased a used original brass radiator (cash was tight) and used Peak Final Charge Global Extended Life red coolant after flushing the system with distilled water.

3rd set of readings from June-August in and around Las Vegas
Highway speeds with AC: 194F (Max 196F)
City driving with AC: 196F (Max 204F)
Idling with AC: Max 212F

Personally, I didn't see a significant performance difference between the stock brass radiator and the A1918, and I know that I said that the brass radiator was better than the Koyorad, but that's because the original brass radiator lasted the PO and myself nearly 280k miles before it crapped out. Until someone says their koyorad has lasted for about that long, the OEM has the edge despite new ones being about double the price. Still, I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a Koyorad. Just don't overtax the motor like I did and I think you'll be fine.

Not sure what you mean by overtaxing the motor blew the rad, or rather how lugging the motor could cause a radiator to blow?
Obviously lugging would decrease the cooling ability since the fan isn't spinning as fast, but the system should just overheat and boil out the coolant.

The only thing I can think of is a failed radiator cap not releasing under the higher pressure from increased temperatures.
 
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I posted a video on these forums of what happened immediately after the AC stopped working (so I was above 227F). The coolant was boiling in the reservoir bottle and the the entire top of the radiator was steaming and boiling coolant was coming out of the top seams. The radiator cap did its job too well--it never gave way. Not great videos, but here they are: Cooling Situation...Is This Normal?
 
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