FZJ80 Valve Cover Gasket Job (1 Viewer)

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Hey Dudes,

My buddy Sean and I have another video for you. If you have a leaking valve cover gasket on your 1FZ-FE engine, this video will show you how to replace it along with other associated parts like the spark plug tube seals, PCV valve and grommet, a couple vent hoses, throttle body gasket and either resealing the 2 half moons on the head or replacing them.

The one thing we want to hit home with this job is the Toyota FSM specifies a 15 ft-lb torque value for the 13 valve cover bolts and we believe this is too high. We did do a test to figure out how much force was required to remove one of the bolts and that value was 170 in-lbs. So, it sort of appeared the 15 ft-lb spec was accurate. But, when we got to around 160 in-lbs or 13 ft-lbs, I started to cringe that going any further would have potentially broken one of the bolts in the head. Doing some research on this subject, I found a couple threads on this forum with people having the same concern that the FSM spec of 15 ft-lbs is too high. After getting the bolts to 160 in-lbs, I did do one final pass with a standard length 3/8" ratchet and was able to turn some of the bolts a tiny bit more without feeling like I was using too much force based off the size of the bolts. So, please use your own judgement when tightening down these valve cover bolts. The main thing you want to do is make sure you tighten them down evenly in a crossing pattern and gradually bring them up to the spec you feel comfortable with.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

 
Regarding the 90105-06221 valve cover bolts: Whenever I have a "this doesn't seem correct" correlation between what the technical documentation and my "hand experience" (turning the wrench)-- especially with hardware, I always refer to cross-referencing material. Saves ya every time because these values are universal across the entire Toyota technical multi-verse.

Screen Shot 2020-07-15 at 16.51.40.png
Screen Shot 2020-07-15 at 16.51.52.png
 
Help us out, Onur.
Based on the pages you shared, is the FSM spec higher than it should be? If so, what did it recommend for the valve cover bolts?
Thanks.
 
Help us out, Onur.
Based on the pages you shared, is the FSM spec higher than it should be? If so, what did it recommend for the valve cover bolts?
Thanks.

I don't have one in my hand to confirm the head marking. So, unfortunately, I don't have that memorized.
 
But I will make an educated guess.

90105-06221 is a M6x1.0 Hexagon flange head bolt. Probably no markings.

That means it's a Class 4T. So that would equate to 52 in-lbf. Or, 4.3ft-lbs

That's my educated guess without seeing the bolt and confirming torque specifications.
 
Regarding the 90105-06221 valve cover bolts: Whenever I have a "this doesn't seem correct" correlation between what the technical documentation and my "hand experience" (turning the wrench)-- especially with hardware, I always refer to cross-referencing material. Saves ya every time because these values are universal across the entire Toyota technical multi-verse.

View attachment 2372926View attachment 2372927

This is an excellent point and I wish I would have remembered the Toyota FSM has these charts available. My buddy Jordan shared this with me a couple years ago but it slipped my mind. I could have compared the bolt to the chart and come up with an accurate torque value based off the size and markings on the bolt. Thanks for the reminder.
 
But I will make an educated guess.

90105-06221 is a M6x1.0 Hexagon flange head bolt. Probably no markings.

That means it's a Class 4T. So that would equate to 52 in-lbf. Or, 4.3ft-lbs

That's my educated guess without seeing the bolt and confirming torque specifications.

I believe the valve cover bolts for the 1FZ-FE engine are the same size as the valve cover bolts on the 5VZ-FE engine and I know the 5VZ-FE bolts have a torque value of 53 inch pounds so this would make sense. The 1FZ-FE VC bolts however don't have a rubberized washer like the 5VZ-FE VC bolts have, so I don't know if this makes a difference. Honestly, 53 inch pounds is next to nothing tightness wise. When doing the job, 150 inch pounds didn't feel like too much but know I'm wondering if we got lucky not braking a bolt off in the head.
 
I don't have one in my hand to confirm the head marking. So, unfortunately, I don't have that memorized.

My OEM's (from a '97) are marked as below:

OEM VC Bolts.jpg


They are M6 x 1.0 x 25mm

Replaced all of mine with Stainless.

OEM VC Bolts1.jpg
stainless bolts1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hey Dudes,

My buddy Sean and I have another video for you. If you have a leaking valve cover gasket on your 1FZ-FE engine, this video will show you how to replace it along with other associated parts like the spark plug tube seals, PCV valve and grommet, a couple vent hoses, throttle body gasket and either resealing the 2 half moons on the head or replacing them.

The one thing we want to hit home with this job is the Toyota FSM specifies a 15 ft-lb torque value for the 13 valve cover bolts and we believe this is too high. We did do a test to figure out how much force was required to remove one of the bolts and that value was 170 in-lbs. So, it sort of appeared the 15 ft-lb spec was accurate. But, when we got to around 160 in-lbs or 13 ft-lbs, I started to cringe that going any further would have potentially broken one of the bolts in the head. Doing some research on this subject, I found a couple threads on this forum with people having the same concern that the FSM spec of 15 ft-lbs is too high. After getting the bolts to 160 in-lbs, I did do one final pass with a standard length 3/8" ratchet and was able to turn some of the bolts a tiny bit more without feeling like I was using too much force based off the size of the bolts. So, please use your own judgement when tightening down these valve cover bolts. The main thing you want to do is make sure you tighten them down evenly in a crossing pattern and gradually bring them up to the spec you feel comfortable with.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!



Can you or someone point out in video where you do the PCV valve and grommet?
Thx
 
Thanks for the great video Timmy, was a perfect reference for my valve cover replacement. Unfortunately when putting the cover back on, a bolt head broke off as I was tightening on my 140 in-lbs pass. Has there been any consensus recently about how tight these suckers should be? Was it just some bad luck? I've searched threads and can't find a definitive answer. Now I'm paranoid to finish tightening the rest and wonder if I should take them out and buy some stainless.
 
Wait, people use a torque wrench on valve cover bolts?....
Only Mud retentive nuts (and bolts) :)

Funny, in oz on my patrol, it has never seen a torque wrench and (not) amazingly nothing has sheared or fallen off yet...

cheers,
george.
 
Thanks for the great video Timmy, was a perfect reference for my valve cover replacement. Unfortunately when putting the cover back on, a bolt head broke off as I was tightening on my 140 in-lbs pass. Has there been any consensus recently about how tight these suckers should be? Was it just some bad luck? I've searched threads and can't find a definitive answer. Now I'm paranoid to finish tightening the rest and wonder if I should take them out and buy some stainless.

I haven't heard anything further on the proper torque value for those bolts. I'd remove the valve cover, get that broken bolt out and then just go by feel when you get the cover back on. I never use to use a torque wrench. I would just base my tightening on the size of the fastener. I guess 140 inch pounds or 12 foot pounds is too much from what you experienced. I bet 10 foot pounds or 120 inch pounds is more than enough for those bolts.
 
I haven't heard anything further on the proper torque value for those bolts. I'd remove the valve cover, get that broken bolt out and then just go by feel when you get the cover back on. I never use to use a torque wrench. I would just base my tightening on the size of the fastener. I guess 140 inch pounds or 12 foot pounds is too much from what you experienced. I bet 10 foot pounds or 120 inch pounds is more than enough for those bolts.

7-8 ft lbs is plenty. The valve cover has a built in 'stop' that won't allow the gasket to be compressed beyond a certain point. So the 'torque' figure is simply to introduce just enough bolt stretch to keep them tight.

VCG stop.jpg
 
I always use 10Nm for a new gasket, 12Nm for reused. Never had a problem.

PS: Lexus 3UR-FE FSM says 12Nm
 
Thanks all! Of course this is the first time using a torque wrench as I wanted to do it "right". I have always gone by feel before, but it's hard to get a feel using the torque wrench in an incremental cross pattern for me. I bought some stainless bolts and will just use those and tighten them up until it feels snug.
 
Thanks all! Of course this is the first time using a torque wrench as I wanted to do it "right". I have always gone by feel before, but it's hard to get a feel using the torque wrench in an incremental cross pattern for me. I bought some stainless bolts and will just use those and tighten them up until it feels snug.

That's what I did with mine. Went stainless, just snugged them up by hand. They are holding nicely.
 

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