alia176
SILVER Star
That's a good find there amigo, wet TCM connector is no bueno. If you haven't already, check the NSS just to make sure it's clean and tidy. You know, while you're in there
Last edited:
FZJ80 Running Woes (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BakerFJ
- Start date
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That's a good find there amigo, wet TCM connector is no bueno. If you haven't already, check the NSS just to make sure it's clean and tidy. You know, while you're in there
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #42
Haven't had an engine light pop up since cleaning the TCM connectors--havent checked my codes yet though.
Installed the new intake tube this morning (1996 style, people say it needs trimming, I just shoved it on and it worked with worm drive clamps).
Cold startup after was much better, I don't have to hold the throttle to keep it from dying. Still has a slight misfire, the new O2s were on when the bad injectors were in, so it's possible they got fuel-fouled (although they're clean as heck).
I will say, I just drove 145 miled over the past 2 or 3 days (Austin TX commuting
) and I'm getting 12mpg, not bad not bad. I'd like to get that number to 15 though!! Might be a topic for a different thread.
Also found this LED in my toolbox, so I made a bracket to mount it to the hood. Needs some reinforcement but for a little evening project I ain't mad. Also no, there's not a second one for the other side
Installed the new intake tube this morning (1996 style, people say it needs trimming, I just shoved it on and it worked with worm drive clamps).
Cold startup after was much better, I don't have to hold the throttle to keep it from dying. Still has a slight misfire, the new O2s were on when the bad injectors were in, so it's possible they got fuel-fouled (although they're clean as heck).
I will say, I just drove 145 miled over the past 2 or 3 days (Austin TX commuting
) and I'm getting 12mpg, not bad not bad. I'd like to get that number to 15 though!! Might be a topic for a different thread.Also found this LED in my toolbox, so I made a bracket to mount it to the hood. Needs some reinforcement but for a little evening project I ain't mad. Also no, there's not a second one for the other side
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #43
About 45 miles since I cleaned out the TCM connections above the starter---no codes!!
Wild, because I don't remember the last time I didn't have a code. Usually has at least something like VSS (speedo doesn't work).
Still having cold start/closed loop issues, but having no codes is a really good sign.
Trying to get my hands on a ZF Toyobd1 scanner so I don't have to go through all this metering shplew again to check stuff---that'd be siiick
I plan to get an AFR gauge to see exactly what my air:fuel readings are.
I definitely don't have any vacuum leaks, fuel system is mint, all the sensors are mint. So it leaves me scratching my head a bit.
All I can really think of is possibly the new O2s got fouled, IAT isn't working right (even tho I bench tested it), or possibly the idle air control screw on the AFM was tampered with when it was rebuilt
Wild, because I don't remember the last time I didn't have a code. Usually has at least something like VSS (speedo doesn't work).
Still having cold start/closed loop issues, but having no codes is a really good sign.
Trying to get my hands on a ZF Toyobd1 scanner so I don't have to go through all this metering shplew again to check stuff---that'd be siiick
I plan to get an AFR gauge to see exactly what my air:fuel readings are.
I definitely don't have any vacuum leaks, fuel system is mint, all the sensors are mint. So it leaves me scratching my head a bit.
All I can really think of is possibly the new O2s got fouled, IAT isn't working right (even tho I bench tested it), or possibly the idle air control screw on the AFM was tampered with when it was rebuilt
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #44
Been a couple hundred miles,
TCM codes came back, but don't seem to be affecting anything *shrug*. Also have seen a TPS code show face once, which is suspicious, although it is a new Duralast sensor that I had in the parts bin, wouldn't surprise me to find it already having issues, but I don't think it's related to the cold start doohickey.
The Cruiser only runs poor and gutless on initial startup, as if the fuel regulator or pump isn't doing it's job. If I just drive it straightaway regardless, the symptoms go away after about 3 or 4 blocks. Runs smooth as heck once properly warmed up. It seems to get slightly better with every drive, self-healing Land Cruiser?
I'm averaging about 12 mpg combined hwy/city driving (with ARB bumper and roof rack. Might fab up a wind deflector for the roof when I have time).
Haven't had a chance to look into much stuff, given the symptoms the parts in mind are ECT or O2s. Also a possibility that my valve seals are leaking enough oil into the cylinders that the engine hates itself on cold starts, but I don't have the time to fix that currently, and to be frank if I have to tear into the engine ever I'm just slapping a junkyard LS into it hahaha
Also, RR axle is leaking moly soup
Needless to say this truck keeps my life interesting!
TCM codes came back, but don't seem to be affecting anything *shrug*. Also have seen a TPS code show face once, which is suspicious, although it is a new Duralast sensor that I had in the parts bin, wouldn't surprise me to find it already having issues, but I don't think it's related to the cold start doohickey.
The Cruiser only runs poor and gutless on initial startup, as if the fuel regulator or pump isn't doing it's job. If I just drive it straightaway regardless, the symptoms go away after about 3 or 4 blocks. Runs smooth as heck once properly warmed up. It seems to get slightly better with every drive, self-healing Land Cruiser?
I'm averaging about 12 mpg combined hwy/city driving (with ARB bumper and roof rack. Might fab up a wind deflector for the roof when I have time).
Haven't had a chance to look into much stuff, given the symptoms the parts in mind are ECT or O2s. Also a possibility that my valve seals are leaking enough oil into the cylinders that the engine hates itself on cold starts, but I don't have the time to fix that currently, and to be frank if I have to tear into the engine ever I'm just slapping a junkyard LS into it hahaha
Also, RR axle is leaking moly soup
Needless to say this truck keeps my life interesting!
alia176
SILVER Star
Sorry if this was mentioned already but did you check the fuel pressure at the fuel filter or at the rail? I'm sure you did this already but wanted to ask. I don't think you're having a fuel pump issue because it'd be across the board, even if you had a dirty fuel pump sock.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #46
Yessir, as well as overhauled the fuel system as I hadn't gone through it in years...lol
Regarding my TCM codes, which may be related to why it's running poor at times-- I'm wondering if I mixed up a wire or two on the TCM connectors. I did build the wiring harness at 3am
When I have a chance I'll pull that portion of the harness up and double-check. Schedule's been absolutely swamped between studying, exams, and work going on an offroad camping trip for Halloween, ideally I'll have it sorted by then but either way I'm still gonna send it
From everything you've listed, this is the thing I'd still question.
Hard to be sure from pics, your hoses seem fairly fresh, but what about the PCV grommets in the valve cover? o-ring on oil cap? O-ring on the dipstick?
With everything you've done, a few more $$ to refresh some of these things would make sense to me. Tick them off the list conclusively.
I had a rough idle previously and slight stumble. I did the brake clean spray test and never detected any change in idle. I never solved my stumble until I did a head gasket replacement and found all the old hoses, o-rings were rock hard, and PCV grommets were split and rock solid. I also had broken injector harness plugs I suspected.
I'll never know for sure if my idle issue was due to vacuum leak, or head gasket. But there was absolutely lots of potential for vacuum leaks.
I replaced all rubber hoses, seals etc on the engine. Afterwards it ran smooth as butter.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #48
Skip ahead 6 months of being swamped between being a full time engineering student, physics lab assistant, and racecar pitcrew mechanic who has no time to work on his own cars LOL:
Probably reiterating some stuff from before, but I want to revisit the symptoms I'm experiencing (and possibly some new ones? IDK I've slept since then ¯\_(ツ)_/¯).
As it sits currently, it’ll idle and cruise fine after initial cold start. I’m down on power in acceleration and top end, often having to floor it to get the beans (Oftentimes it feels like there's a dead zone in the pedal, in most generic scenerios this would point to a fuel pump issue. It's *possible* that could be my problem, but if you've read up to this point, I've tested fuel pressure per FSM before overhauling the fuel system AND after overhauling the fuel system).
Smells like it’s running rich. (No current codes as one of my battery cells died during the Texas freeze (I suppose 6 years on a battery would do that!) and had to install a new battery, been driving it here and there to get the codes to resurface).
It won’t shift into 4th (overdrive) gear on the highway, at least I haven’t been able to drive it long enough to get it to as I was before. Currently educating myself on this system as it functions by locking up the torque converter and intend to dive into it when I have some free time as I believe it may lead me to the issue I’m trying to find, given that I believe everything under the hood is as it should be. Regarding the 'TCM ESA communication codes' (electronic spark advance). In every documented case of these, it’s due to a recall issue in the ’93 ECUs and is fixed by replacing with the newer ’94 ECU, and doesn’t really cause huge issues outside of slightly low idle and an annoying engine light.
HOWEVERRRRR I already have a ’94 ECU in the truck, and have a spare ’94 along with my original ’93. I’ve tried swapping all previously and the issue was not resolved. I’ve metered the wiring for the ESA circuit (just goes from ECU to the TCM and they’re all good) and swapping to my spare TCM didn’t resolve it either. From the thousands of online threads I’ve read, I’m the only one to ever have this issue. Should note that I never had these codes prior to my very initial issues with the truck, only after I got it to be driveable. I’ve basically just been fixing one thing after another without truly getting it to 100%. In my mind, it’d make sense if this were the entire issue, as the ESA controls spark advance (although it’s set by adjusting the distributor? Not sure how it actually functions). It could be that it's forcing a very advanced spark and thus causing a rich condition.
Once in awhile, after driving and having parked, I have to crank it constantly for like 40 seconds before it fires up (apologies to my new starter. Putting it to work). This happens totally randomly. I thought it may be due to a leaking/sticking injector issue, so I installed more modern Bosch 4- hole injectors from CruiserParts that I’ve had laying around (same flow rate) which many install on their Cruisers to gain like, +1 MPG hahaha.
I want to point out that I had previously installed a different set of the same injectors, and it caused the truck to run wayyy rich. Cruiser Parts sent me a new set to replace them (wish I could've bench tested the flow on them myself, but I don't have the equipment nor the time to build a bench rig to do it).
Since that swap, on initial cold start up/driving, the truck is pretty much the same; driveable outside of a little missing power and no 4th gear. However, when I turn it off and restart it, it runs like s***—like it’s missing a cylinder. I don’t recall this issue prior to swapping injectors, however it had been a long time since I last drove it before the swap.
It's so weird, to have it be driveable and just down on power from cold start to driving on the highway fully warmed up--but as soon and you turn it off and turn it back on it falls on its face and feels like it dropped a cylinder. I need to drive it more to verify the consistency of this, but in in both of the two times driving it since the new injectors, it's done this.
Some other notes: The transmission is designed to not shift into overdrive until the ECU reads that the engine is warmed up from the ECT. However, my issue is at all temps
I was able to get my hands on a TOYOCOM live data unit (if you don't know what this is, go find out. It's sooooo amazing! GAME CHANGERRRR). Waiting for it to arrive in the mail. Hoping that being able to read out live data while driving will show me some things I didn't see before. If anything else, I'll be able to read sensor outputs without having to manually do it because I'm spoiled.
I plan to reevaluate the entire fuel system (including all the lines), look into the transmission electrical system (torque converter lock-up and solenoids), as well as re-re-re-recheck a few of the engine sensors. Also would like to try a known-good VAF and (94) ECU just to see if anything changes and to rule them out.
To be frank, I've had a hunch something's up with the Ebay reman VAF I bought. It bench tests within all FSM parameters, but these are finicky to being tampered with. Given that the VAF has direct control of the fuel system, it wouldn't surprise me. I'm going to either send one of my old units to Bavarian Restoration or possibly find a known-good used unit. In a perfect world, I'd be buddied up with some local 80-Series guys whose VAF I could slap on temporarily just to see what happens before forking out the moolah. But alas, do not.
Probably reiterating some stuff from before, but I want to revisit the symptoms I'm experiencing (and possibly some new ones? IDK I've slept since then ¯\_(ツ)_/¯).
As it sits currently, it’ll idle and cruise fine after initial cold start. I’m down on power in acceleration and top end, often having to floor it to get the beans (Oftentimes it feels like there's a dead zone in the pedal, in most generic scenerios this would point to a fuel pump issue. It's *possible* that could be my problem, but if you've read up to this point, I've tested fuel pressure per FSM before overhauling the fuel system AND after overhauling the fuel system).
Smells like it’s running rich. (No current codes as one of my battery cells died during the Texas freeze (I suppose 6 years on a battery would do that!) and had to install a new battery, been driving it here and there to get the codes to resurface).
It won’t shift into 4th (overdrive) gear on the highway, at least I haven’t been able to drive it long enough to get it to as I was before. Currently educating myself on this system as it functions by locking up the torque converter and intend to dive into it when I have some free time as I believe it may lead me to the issue I’m trying to find, given that I believe everything under the hood is as it should be. Regarding the 'TCM ESA communication codes' (electronic spark advance). In every documented case of these, it’s due to a recall issue in the ’93 ECUs and is fixed by replacing with the newer ’94 ECU, and doesn’t really cause huge issues outside of slightly low idle and an annoying engine light.
HOWEVERRRRR I already have a ’94 ECU in the truck, and have a spare ’94 along with my original ’93. I’ve tried swapping all previously and the issue was not resolved. I’ve metered the wiring for the ESA circuit (just goes from ECU to the TCM and they’re all good) and swapping to my spare TCM didn’t resolve it either. From the thousands of online threads I’ve read, I’m the only one to ever have this issue. Should note that I never had these codes prior to my very initial issues with the truck, only after I got it to be driveable. I’ve basically just been fixing one thing after another without truly getting it to 100%. In my mind, it’d make sense if this were the entire issue, as the ESA controls spark advance (although it’s set by adjusting the distributor? Not sure how it actually functions). It could be that it's forcing a very advanced spark and thus causing a rich condition.
Once in awhile, after driving and having parked, I have to crank it constantly for like 40 seconds before it fires up (apologies to my new starter. Putting it to work
). This happens totally randomly. I thought it may be due to a leaking/sticking injector issue, so I installed more modern Bosch 4- hole injectors from CruiserParts that I’ve had laying around (same flow rate) which many install on their Cruisers to gain like, +1 MPG hahaha. I want to point out that I had previously installed a different set of the same injectors, and it caused the truck to run wayyy rich. Cruiser Parts sent me a new set to replace them (wish I could've bench tested the flow on them myself, but I don't have the equipment nor the time to build a bench rig to do it).
Since that swap, on initial cold start up/driving, the truck is pretty much the same; driveable outside of a little missing power and no 4th gear. However, when I turn it off and restart it, it runs like s***—like it’s missing a cylinder. I don’t recall this issue prior to swapping injectors, however it had been a long time since I last drove it before the swap.
It's so weird, to have it be driveable and just down on power from cold start to driving on the highway fully warmed up--but as soon and you turn it off and turn it back on it falls on its face and feels like it dropped a cylinder. I need to drive it more to verify the consistency of this, but in in both of the two times driving it since the new injectors, it's done this.
Some other notes: The transmission is designed to not shift into overdrive until the ECU reads that the engine is warmed up from the ECT. However, my issue is at all temps
I was able to get my hands on a TOYOCOM live data unit (if you don't know what this is, go find out. It's sooooo amazing! GAME CHANGERRRR). Waiting for it to arrive in the mail. Hoping that being able to read out live data while driving will show me some things I didn't see before. If anything else, I'll be able to read sensor outputs without having to manually do it because I'm spoiled
.I plan to reevaluate the entire fuel system (including all the lines), look into the transmission electrical system (torque converter lock-up and solenoids), as well as re-re-re-recheck a few of the engine sensors. Also would like to try a known-good VAF and (94) ECU just to see if anything changes and to rule them out.
To be frank, I've had a hunch something's up with the Ebay reman VAF I bought. It bench tests within all FSM parameters, but these are finicky to being tampered with. Given that the VAF has direct control of the fuel system, it wouldn't surprise me. I'm going to either send one of my old units to Bavarian Restoration or possibly find a known-good used unit. In a perfect world, I'd be buddied up with some local 80-Series guys whose VAF I could slap on temporarily just to see what happens before forking out the moolah. But alas, do not.
BakerFJ
Benny Bodangus
- Thread starter
- #49
Whew, it's been a while!
I found the issue in the end. As expected it was something stupid, albeit still tricky!
The AFM was bad, however the full spread of bench tests pointed to it being perfectly fine. I acquired a used AFM and slapped it on for s***s and giggles, and she purrrrrred.
Moral of the story, don't buy reman AFMs on eBay. I've read good things about Bulgarian Restorations for anyone looking for a reference, although haven't used them myself.
As far as the transmission issues I was experiencing, they alleviated with the AFM swap as well. No clue as to why, I suspect something to do with the IAT malfunctioning and the rig thinking it's cold outside when it's not, subsequently dumping fuel and attempting to keep the transmission in warm-up mode.
Haven't checked codes since the truck runs fine, not sure if anything happened with the infamous ESA-circuit codes (83 84 85 I think they were?) But nothing.bad has happened. Again most cases point to the recall ECU issue but I have a 94 ECU so my issue would be different. I've only seen one other individual have the same codes on a 94 ECU but they never posted whether they solved it. I'm not worried about it anymore
On the bright side, this experience forced me to go through and freshen most everything up haha. All that's left is AC, this Texas heat index is BRUTALLLLL.
I found the issue in the end. As expected it was something stupid, albeit still tricky!
The AFM was bad, however the full spread of bench tests pointed to it being perfectly fine. I acquired a used AFM and slapped it on for s***s and giggles, and she purrrrrred.
Moral of the story, don't buy reman AFMs on eBay. I've read good things about Bulgarian Restorations for anyone looking for a reference, although haven't used them myself.
As far as the transmission issues I was experiencing, they alleviated with the AFM swap as well. No clue as to why, I suspect something to do with the IAT malfunctioning and the rig thinking it's cold outside when it's not, subsequently dumping fuel and attempting to keep the transmission in warm-up mode.
Haven't checked codes since the truck runs fine, not sure if anything happened with the infamous ESA-circuit codes (83 84 85 I think they were?) But nothing.bad has happened. Again most cases point to the recall ECU issue but I have a 94 ECU so my issue would be different. I've only seen one other individual have the same codes on a 94 ECU but they never posted whether they solved it. I'm not worried about it anymore
On the bright side, this experience forced me to go through and freshen most everything up haha. All that's left is AC, this Texas heat index is BRUTALLLLL.
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effjay80
SILVER Star
What was your VAF solution?
Your VAF wanted post brought me here. I just read some of your post history and I thought you fixed this?
Oddly mine measures bad across one set of pins. Bought one on amazon and it measures the exact same way. (-_-)
For now I'm running the amazon one, but if I try driving for about 3+ hours I'll get a lean code. And quite often it had a bad idle. Runs good on the highway though.
Just did head gasket, etc etc, new seals on injectors, just did a leak test with carb cleaner even. No change in idle. But I did find Ive got three or four injector plugs with broken clips. So maybe that? I really don't want buy a whole new harness but that might be the solution.
Already deleted pairs and EGR.
Sorry can't help with the VAF but maybe I'll get my other one rebuilt.
Oddly mine measures bad across one set of pins. Bought one on amazon and it measures the exact same way. (-_-)
For now I'm running the amazon one, but if I try driving for about 3+ hours I'll get a lean code. And quite often it had a bad idle. Runs good on the highway though.
Just did head gasket, etc etc, new seals on injectors, just did a leak test with carb cleaner even. No change in idle. But I did find Ive got three or four injector plugs with broken clips. So maybe that? I really don't want buy a whole new harness but that might be the solution.
Already deleted pairs and EGR.
Sorry can't help with the VAF but maybe I'll get my other one rebuilt.
