FZJ80 K292 or K294 Axle Refinishing / Painting (1 Viewer)

[lp2k]

Hey everyone- so as I am rebuilding my knuckles on my 93, I noticed some surface rust on the axle housing (photo below). Being a bit of a perfectionist, this rusty image is bothersome and I want to know if anyone may be able share some links and photos of there attempts to refinish. I should say I do not want to go the ultimate cheap way in the event I am to sell her, I don’t want some buyer thinking I just rattlecan painted it to cover up murder.

my thoughts? Remove axle. Sand rust off, and then prime and paint (maybe use some of the stuff they use for pickup bed liner) on the tube section, not the pumpkin.

thanks y’all

 

[Cruiser804]

degrease, brush on rustoleum

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I want to do this as well. I heard a lot of people use John deere blitz black. Can any one else chime in? Curious to see before and after pics too

 

[Njck22]

Lots of good info in this recent thread.

Painting axle/suspension/steering/brake components? Show me your undercarriage!

In the next two months I'll be taking my 80 down for the rebuild of both axles, all steering and suspension bushings, new shocks and springs, and a new PowerStop brake kit. Some of you guy have beautiful undercarriages, and I'd like to give mine some attention as well while I have everything...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[categorytheory]

Try Steel-it.

 

[BILT4ME]

Try Steel-it.

Steel-it won't hold up to that environment.

Get a needle gun, clean it, epoxy primer, john Deere Blitz Black epoxy. Last a very long time. Having the paint stick long term is 100% about the preparation. Gotta be clean and oil free.

 

[Rwhat]

I used oil based rustoleum semi gloss. Thin it out a bit with either mineral spirits or acetone. Acetone flashes faster so better in humid climates to dry faster. I sometimes use a touch up spray gun and it’s similar to spray painting, but with the rustoleum it’s not as finicky as a rattle can if you don’t get all the grease, ect off.

 

[lp2k]

Steel-it won't hold up to that environment.

Get a needle gun, clean it, epoxy primer, john Deere Blitz Black epoxy. Last a very long time. Having the paint stick long term is 100% about the preparation. Gotta be clean and oil free.

you have me intrigued @BILT4ME, I’m going to plan and go along the route you laid out. Many thanks

 

[BILT4ME]

Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer (black) and John Deere Blitz Black (semi-gloss epoxy)

Products | United States | Southern Polyurethanes

Specializing in High Quality Urethane clearcoats for the automotive industry including California and Canada compliant products.

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

Search Parts - DealerCustomerPortal.com

myheritagetractor.dealercustomerportal.com

Southern Poly:

Epoxy Primer: Black, 1 Gallon, #6620-1, Mix 1:1, $96.89/Gal
Epoxy Activator: 1 Gallon, #6700-1, Mix 1:1 $96.89/Gal

John Deere Blitz Black TY25632 This is listed as a Medium Gloss black. $35.71/Gal

You will need thinner for each as well.

 

[categorytheory]

Steel-it won't hold up to that environment.

Get a needle gun, clean it, epoxy primer, john Deere Blitz Black epoxy. Last a very long time. Having the paint stick long term is 100% about the preparation. Gotta be clean and oil free.

Why not? I’ve been told by a number of pros that it’s what they use... am I being told wrong?

 

[BILT4ME]

Why not? I’ve been told by a number of pros that it’s what they use... am I being told wrong?

I have built industrial equipment for the last 35 years. We have spec'd in Steel-It paint to go into industrial environments and their products are typically called out for food plants in wash down environments. This paint rubs off quickly, but it has benefits for food environments.

Steel-It is an expensive product that has a very niche use.

There are MUCH better products out there is what I'm saying.

Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646 is a great product as is the epoxy I listed above. Many are oil resistant as well after they have cured.

If you want the best, use a zinc based primer, then an epoxy top coat, then a polyurethane coating over that. Extremely tough coating, designed for a salt air environment (we use this a lot on industrial equipment on oil rigs as well as right on the coast. This also a VERY expensive coating system. This averages $65-$95 per gallon and requires an SSPC-SP10 near white blast surface for proper adhesion.

 

[spazzyfry123]

I have built industrial equipment for the last 35 years. We have spec'd in Steel-It paint to go into industrial environments and their products are typically called out for food plants in wash down environments. This paint rubs off quickly, but it has benefits for food environments.

Steel-It is an expensive product that has a very niche use.

There are MUCH better products out there is what I'm saying.

Sherwin Williams Macropoxy 646 is a great product as is the epoxy I listed above. Many are oil resistant as well after they have cured.

If you want the best, use a zinc based primer, then an epoxy top coat, then a polyurethane coating over that. Extremely tough coating, designed for a salt air environment (we use this a lot on industrial equipment on oil rigs as well as right on the coast. This also a VERY expensive coating system. This averages $65-$95 per gallon and requires an SSPC-SP10 near white blast surface for proper adhesion.

Agreed. Was in heavy industrial manufacturing with Steel-It creating more problems than solving. That said, I’ve never seen it used in the application in question here. Typical of food industry.