FZJ80 Gremlin (1 Viewer)

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Finally decided to post on here for some assistance. I have been doing my best to research and fix the issue on my own, but have not been successful.

Here are the details and history. I have 1994 Toyota Landcruiser. 208,000 miles. Rebuilt engine has about 1k.
I recently did an engine swap with a rebuilt one from Jarco Engines. I also replaced a lot of connectors and rewrapped the engine harness with new electrical tape and reflective heat tape. Saw no damage to the wires. So finished the swap and everything was working good. Then got the check engine light for the knock sensor and egr. Put on new knock sensors and conncetors. For the egr I did the Hudd expo mod and put in the plug for the temp sensor so egr would not turn on. Doing all these things fixed the check engine light with no more problems.

So roughly 500-800 problem free miles later. The LC now has an issue with engine cutting out after about 45 minutes. Seemed like a fuel issue so I put in a new fuel pump and replaced the fuel relay. Today tested started fine ran about 20 minutes no issue. Then drove on highway for about 30 minutes and engine cut of and would not restart. No low oil pressure or high temp. Tried to restart and would not fire. All fluids are good, checked oil, radiator fluid threw in the towel and had it towed to Toyota.

When I did the swap replaced all the following:
-Distributor
-Spark plug wires
-Coil
-All new vacuum hoses
-Air intake hose
-new starter
-2 year old Toyota radiator
-all new gaskets and rubber I rings.
-New egr valve and pipe. I planned on running the egr, but then found carbon in one of the small lines by the throttle body. Tried cleaning with a pic, but will have to take off. After some thought just decided to disable with the plug.

The only thing I did not do was have the fuel injectors cleaned. I was planning to put in a 4 hole injector but when I compared them to the factory they didn’t look the same. So I just went back with what was I before.

Any thoughts or ideas?
 
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How about looking into the efi relay. The same relay is used elsewhere on the vehicle so it’s a simple matter of swapping one in from a different location for quick trouble shooting.
 
Thank you for the feedback. I ordered these two new and put them in. Any others I could check.

CA774794-7847-47C0-89CD-4FFB75DCBC57.jpeg
 
So it looks like you’ve already replaced the efi relay. There is the circuit opening relay (COR) located behind the drivers kick panel. Its function is for safety and recieves a signal from the airflow meter that the engine is still running and needs fuel. Here is a link that may help if you don’t have a FSM.


 
Thxs, yeah go figure did some research and found this.


Should have checked for fuel or spark of course on side of the highway with 18 wheelers flying by not really thinking about that.
 
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Thxs, yeah go figure did some research and found this.


Should have checked for fuel or spark of course on side of the highway with 18 wheelers flying by not really thinking about that.
Could this issues be related to the EGR at all. The reason I ask is looking through the FSM troubleshooting chart they list EGR system as 2 or 3 on a lot of these.
 
A rough idle or stall at idle could be caused by a leaking egr valve. Your problem seems to be related to the affect of heat build up somewhere in an electrical circuit.

Have you tested the ignition coil and igniter? The fuel pump resister?
 
A rough idle or stall at idle could be caused by a leaking egr valve. Your problem seems to be related to the affect of heat build up somewhere in an electrical circuit.

Have you tested the ignition coil and igniter? The fuel pump resister?
Does it have an aftermarket alarm
 
A rough idle or stall at idle could be caused by a leaking egr valve. Your problem seems to be related to the affect of heat build up somewhere in an electrical circuit.

Have you tested the ignition coil and igniter? The fuel pump resister?
Not yet, but that’s probably more in line with my symptoms.

Just looked up the igniter and guess their is no test procedure on that. Thinking that could be it. Coil, distributor, wires, and spark plugs are all new from Toyota.
 
I’ve owned 40’s and three 80’s and the igniter was never a problem.
 
I’ve owned 40’s and three 80’s and the igniter was never a problem.
That’s what I found as well is these things don’t fail. The heat build up is interesting because yes after driving for a while and long distance it starts to cut out. However, I remember checking some things in my garage while it was running and had not really gotten hot, was idling fine and then after about 2 minutes engine just died. I also had a time were I switch off the ac and it died. Was not really hot then either. Started right back up after.
 
A corrode ground can also cause heat build up.
 
I am thinking maybe fuel filter or maybe a bad ground , also carbon canister or fuel cap
 
A corrode ground can also cause heat build up.
A corroded ground cable that goes to batter? Also for fun I disconnected the negative battery cable while engine was running. Engine just kept running.
 
So Toyota came back and said they think the 15 amp EFI fuse was not making good contact in the terminals. So they cleaned those and spread the fuse out. Hopefully it was that easy, but will see what happens.
 

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