Builds FZJ80 6.5TD diesel swap build thread (1 Viewer)

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I hope you don't mind if i join in. Im in the middle of the same.
Military 6.2 w/30k Banks sidewinder, 700r4 out of suburban with 6.2, nv208/fj60 doubler.
Horizontal inercooler., snow injection. I finished my tank conversion to diesel, I finished
my Hydro brakes, I'm now trial fitting engine fitment and going back from there.
I will need to modify my fender for my turbo but to be expected. oh- 93' fj80 locked- 6inch lift
bla bla bla. My cooling will be via aluminum radiator with a Spal 3200 cfm electric. separate
trani cooler. hope cooling is no issue. Your experience will help me on the trouble shooting side.
I am using stock a/c with custom compressor mounts and hoses, fj 80 alt. that has been rebuilt for
120 amp. that way i can use fj plug for electrical system . note; all fj computer system disabled
and transfercase wire will be fooled to think t-case is locked. Im figuring everything out so far but
need a place to vent. so far frustration is low.
 
Wondering if anyone has seen this. My motor has a build sticker for the military on it
that is from GM. Notating specs. 150 hp, at certain rpm . ect. Seems pretty cool
for easy reference. My motor is a 88' , hope it was a good year.
 
Hey! Sounds like you lucked out. The Banks system is the way to go with this type of conversion. I had to modify the factory setup to work, but the price was right and I had the fab skills.

To answer your question, the internals of military engine and the civilian engine are basically the same. The differences are all related to the electrical system and accessories.

Therefore, your 1988 long block is the same and you can identify the quality of the parts by their stamping. Casting Numbers 6.2L diesel are 14022660 for engines 1982-1991 14022660 and 10149599 for engines 1992 to 1993.

The "599" blocks were the last of the 6.2 L blocks GM produced. They are also the thickest and strongest castings because GM was getting ready to produce the 6.5 L engine by boring this block casting out to accommodate the larger diameter pistons required. It incorporates the one-piece rear main seal design, as all 6.5 L engines have, and has ceramic coated pistons because many GM dealers were installing turbochargers as a "factory" option on the last 6.2 L engines.
 
91Chevota said:
To answer your question, the internals of military engine and the civilian engine are basically the same. The differences are all related to the electrical system and accessories.
Click to expand...

In addition to your information, the military motors received desirable fuel injector pumps with a higher fuel output specification.

You can confirm this by searching "J code" GM diesels.

Rick
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm looking forward to being done. Im doing a little fab on the shifters for the
doubler. The old 60 t-case shifter needed a little cut and paste. along with some heim joints, and triangulation. now only two shifters instead of the three iwas going to use. Has anyone used Meth.
I mean the kind that you inject into the post turbo. I've got the setup and research said good things.
Lower EGTs, I don't care about the power add (ya whatever) but sounds like a win/win on cooling
when you need it the most. At boost in a climb. It's just one more project to finish before I'm on the
road again. Well see.
 
found something new to keep an eye out for. My 700r4 was out of a 3/4 ton sub. well beware on
using a 203 transfer case or doubler with this in front because some or most 203s went in front of
t-350 tranis. Problem is the output shaft on the 700r4 is a little diff. than the t-350.= Call to advanced adapter $165-later and $200 to install in a brand new rebuild 700r4 and i should finally have the correct
output shaft. Not all out put shafts were created equal. Just because it came out of a 4x4 and is the correct
spline doesn't mean you are golden. Just a word to the wise--- measure, measure, measure.. David
 
fj80404 said:
Wondering if anyone has seen this. My motor has a build sticker for the military on it
that is from GM. Notating specs. 150 hp, at certain rpm . ect. Seems pretty cool
for easy reference. My motor is a 88' , hope it was a good year.
Click to expand...

Basically the mil spec engine was a J code 6.2 that had headers and the fuel screw turned up.... the headers made quite a bit of difference but cannot fit into a FJ80 engine bay.... not a problem though since you have the banks kit which would have put their manifolds on instead.
 
just trying to keep things going. Hydro break update= had a local co. make up some braided lines to go from gm hydro to yota lines. ready to bleed.
Lokar shifter installed. fuel line bleed complete. radiator installed. now tying in
toy to gm electrical. 6.2 electrical is awsome. very few wires. Still haven't finished all the basic stuff for trial start, but soon. How about an update from
others. Oh- did get the deal of the year on some H1 converted wheels and tires.
300.00 for 5 with about 6 good tires. Im going to tear them down and re seal and
paint them. 37s will be interesting to see how 700r4 and 6.2 turbo power or lack
there of. hope the thing is somewhat strong. My cousin had a short bed chevy with the same 6.2 turbo and he said it was fast, he would love to race 350s
all the time. that is the only person i know with the setup. I will post some pics
if anyone is interested. I normally will not because I'm not sure anyone cares.
I also don't Facebook for the same reason. Who the #@** cares.
 
fj80404 said:
just trying to keep things going. Hydro break update= had a local co. make up some braided lines to go from gm hydro to yota lines. ready to bleed.
Lokar shifter installed. fuel line bleed complete. radiator installed. now tying in
toy to gm electrical. 6.2 electrical is awsome. very few wires. Still haven't finished all the basic stuff for trial start, but soon. How about an update from
others. Oh- did get the deal of the year on some H1 converted wheels and tires.
300.00 for 5 with about 6 good tires. Im going to tear them down and re seal and
paint them. 37s will be interesting to see how 700r4 and 6.2 turbo power or lack
there of. hope the thing is somewhat strong. My cousin had a short bed chevy with the same 6.2 turbo and he said it was fast, he would love to race 350s
all the time. that is the only person i know with the setup. I will post some pics
if anyone is interested. I normally will not because I'm not sure anyone cares.
I also don't Facebook for the same reason. Who the #@** cares.
Click to expand...

can't speak for anyone else but I am interested
 
I'll say that I loved the banks on my 6.2 converted 60 series, it was the perfect combination. The huge benefit is that the drivers exhaust points forward, clears the front axle so there's no possible binding for off-road, and crosses over.

One of my favorite builds so far
 
fj80404 said:
just trying to keep things going. Hydro break update= had a local co. make up some braided lines to go from gm hydro to yota lines. ready to bleed.
Lokar shifter installed. fuel line bleed complete. radiator installed. now tying in
toy to gm electrical. 6.2 electrical is awsome. very few wires. Still haven't finished all the basic stuff for trial start, but soon. How about an update from
others. Oh- did get the deal of the year on some H1 converted wheels and tires.
300.00 for 5 with about 6 good tires. Im going to tear them down and re seal and
paint them. 37s will be interesting to see how 700r4 and 6.2 turbo power or lack
there of. hope the thing is somewhat strong. My cousin had a short bed chevy with the same 6.2 turbo and he said it was fast, he would love to race 350s
all the time. that is the only person i know with the setup. I will post some pics
if anyone is interested. I normally will not because I'm not sure anyone cares.
I also don't Facebook for the same reason. Who the #@** cares.
Click to expand...

I want to see!

Heck ya, I've been thinking this is the way to go for a few years now. Please share!

Ammo
 
connected two wires after bleeding system and wall- started right the f$#@ up. small puff of black smoke then straight to low smooth idle. This has given me new motivation. Radiator hoses next and i can let it run till it gets hot. Im sure that will bring on a hole new trouble shoot therapy session. The only wrench so far is the 700r4 rear is leaking where it meets the adapter. Time consuming but no big deal. wires and
drive shafts next. then i can move the thing on its own power. the 6.2 is a noisy little bit#$. sounds like
my powerstroke and vibrates like a muscle car. Common? i don't know. Updates to follow. How are all the other projects coming along?
 
do yourself a favor and put a fluidamper on that thing..... they are supposed to be much smoother than any other domestic truck diesels the one in my suburban is.

got any pics of the drivetrain ???

this is the swap i'm going to do.
 
fluid damper- good idea. Ill start the research. My damper looks perfect but it probably makes a big diff.
when your ready to do the switch i can give some tips on my trouble shooting along with everybody else
it should start getting easier. I don't have any pics of the drivetrain but ill take some and post them soon.
 
Update - Starter issues

Update on my 6.5 conversion project. Have been driving it for over a year now. I'm very happy with the fuel economy and power - absolutely incredible crawl capability with the diesel and NV4500. But, ever since the build, I've had an intermittent problem when trying to start the motor: the solenoid would "click" but the starter wouldn't turn. quick successive "key turns" would eventually make it connect and turn the motor. At first I suspected a bad solenoid or starter (even though it was a new one) so I put another new one in there. Same problem. When my buddy had the same issue with his FZJ80 6.5 conversion, I got suspicious of the Toyota wiring harness.

It appears that the Toy start circuit is not carrying enough current to reliably pull the Chevy solenoid. The fix is to run an external relay with a 6 ga wire from the battery, through the relay to the Chevy starter. Then use the factory Toy wire to pick up the external relay (like a Ford system). This fixed the problem, starting is absolutely reliable now. Same for my buddies truck.
 
For that very reason, Toyota always runs a starter solenoid separate to the starter due to the heavy load on the diesel starter. Good thing you caught that before going through a bunch of starters.

We use either a standard 80 amp momentary solenoid, or a ford starter solenoid in all our diesel conversions.
 
Yep. I had to do that on my old 4BT powered 60. Easy fix.
 
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