Fuzz's build thread. Never thought I'd see the day! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Looks good!!
 
Thanks guys. Tint is coming soon...summertime is hot up here! We already hit 90+ yesterday in Denver metro.
 
I feel ya on the heat, down here in Florida it's killer... At least we have a nice breeze off the water to somewhat balance it out though
 
Everyone shut their mouths. 111*F with 97% humidity.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
image-330104810.jpg
 
I wasn't complaining, just commenting. Besides, we are a mile closer to the sun up here. Don't blame us because your parents decided to make oyu grow up in Georgia.

Try 130 degrees at 95% humidity in the Persian Gulf. P**sy. :flipoff2:
 
We were allowed 3 a day due to the heat. Believe me, working 6 on/1 off 12 hour shifts, I used my ration card.
 
Update, 08-25-2011:

Well, here we are a few months later. Not a whole lot has changed, but there have been some additions and mods that I feel are worth posting.

First and foremost, got the windows tinted in early June. 15% all the way around. Looks good, but in retrospect I would have gotten 10%.
IMG_20110608_180707.jpg


Second, I've always hated the orange inserts in the 98-02 hundys, but didn't want to shell out the hundreds of bucks people are asking for 03-05 red and clear tail lights. So, based on a thread started by OregonLC, I got a wild hair and pulled my tail lights apart to remove the orange pieces. To date, I'm pretty sure that I'm the only one that actually finished it...Paul, did you ever get yours done? In addition, I painted my tail lights (a la Loud's rig), so that all of the red trim around the lenses is now black. I think this mod has had the single greatest impact on the truck as far as changing the looks. It really turned out well. A few months later, I have no leaks, no fogging, and the black paint I used matches perfectly and is holding up great. I even tried hitting the tails with a self-serve car wash sprayer and can't get them to leak, so I think the Type-7 clear silicone is the way to go.
IMG_20110626_075025.jpg


Then as the summer wore on, I began getting whiffs of a funky smell in the car on really hot days. The dealership "detailed" the car last year when I bought it, but I later found that they didn't do anything more than vacuum the mats and wipe some armor-all on the dash. The PO obviously had a pet ride in the car with him/her, as there was hair on the carpet. So, that combined with the smell got me thinking that it was time for a major clean-out/detail job. Inspired by Gunney's results with the Tuff Stuff carpet cleaner, I bought two cans at Walmart for 3.22/ea along with an upholstery brush, and started ripping the trim and seats out. Under the seats, I found this:

IMG_20110817_134728.jpg

IMG_20110817_134803.jpg


Gross. I've certainly seen worse (Gunney's truck, for example :D), but the multiple layers of spilled who-knows-what down the sides of the seats is where the smell was coming from. Additionally, the PO either had a very small dog, or a hive or long haired South American ferrets living in the car. There was hair EVERYWHERE. In the seatbacks, under the seats, under the trim, under the carpet (?!), everywhere. Evidently, they also chewed Stride gum from time to time :rolleyes:. After a few hours worth of work, the smells are gone, the hair is mostly gone (it's impossible to get it all out), and I feel confidant that the interior is cleaner now than it has been since the truck was new. The after pictures aren't as good due to the sun going down through the trees, but they still illustrate some of the difference.

IMG_20110817_162109.jpg

IMG_20110817_162043.jpg


I do agree with Gunney - that Tuff Stuff is good kit. It's not a miracle in a can, but the majority of the stains came out. Only the really deep ones remain, but they are significantly lighter.

All told, this is about half of what my Bissel pulled out of the carpet/interior:
IMG_20110817_170415.jpg


Nasty. Glad that's done.
 
Last edited:
Now, I re-indexed by torsion bars once about 6 weeks ago, but I didn't pull the adjuster bolts out far enough, and didn't end up getting enough lift out of it the first time around. I was able to get about 3/4" of additional lift out of them before bottoming the bolts out again. Frustrated and a bit discouraged, I left it alone because I didn't have the desire to climb under there and deal with ripping it all apart again. The one thing I did do though, is grease the splines and the associated bolts before putting it all back together.

Yesterday, I succumbed to the constant stinkbug ribbing, and attempted a re-re-index. I am SO GLAD that I greased everything up. The adjuster bolts are long and will always be a PITA no matter how you slice it, but after I got them both off, I had the rest of the bolts loose and the torsion bars out in less than three minutes, both sides. After breaking the bolts loose, I could literally take them off by hand and slide the torsion bars out without any tools - on a rust belt truck.

At any rate, I took the adjuster bolts completely out, then barely started them back into the anchor arm - only a couple of threads, just enough to hold them in place. By doing this, I was able to gain an additional two splines of index on the stock bars over the one or two that I got the first time around. I now have a level truck, with plenty of room to adjust up or down.

IMG_20110824_170722.jpg

IMG_20110824_170707.jpg

IMG_20110824_170741.jpg

IMG_20110824_170832.jpg


The downside is that the tires rub like a sonofabitch now at or close to full lock, so I've had to modify my steering habits. I have also been noticing some funky handling characteristics lately, so an alignment will be done soon, so maybe that will help with the rubbing too. I will also be replacing the totally shot front upper swaybar bushings that I found while crawling around under the truck yesterday. They are completely crushed. Haven't checked the rears yet, but I'm assuming they will need some love too, and both front CV's are leaking. Great!

Lots more to come.
 
Last edited:
Looks Great Fuzz. My CVs were leaking and I picked up a set of hose clamps from West Marine, pulled the stock bands off and replaced with the new clamps...problem solved for $3. Not sure if you want them or not but spacers might help with the rub. I just checked and Energy Suspension doesn't show what bushings fit on the 100, they probably do have something that will work in their universal section.
 
I'm running spacers in the rear - my rubbing is happening in the front when the tires contact the UCAs at/near full steering lock. Should have been more clear on that, sorry.

As for the bushings, I think I'm just going to replace them w/ stockers...I can get both sets for $30 from RockAuto.com. I'm more interesting in curing the steering/handling issues that I've been having recently.
 
The first few picks make it look like you live in my sisters neighborhood in Centinial, CO.
 
Not sure we are talking about the same spacers, I am talking about wheel spacers and not spring spacers. Wheel spacers will push your wheels out a bit and stop the rub at full turn.

The reason I suggest the Energy bushing is that they make some with a zerk fitting so you can keep em greased. Just not sure you can get em for the 100...?
 
Not sure we are talking about the same spacers, I am talking about wheel spacers and not spring spacers. Wheel spacers will push your wheels out a bit and stop the rub at full turn.

The reason I suggest the Energy bushing is that they make some with a zerk fitting so you can keep em greased. Just not sure you can get em for the 100...?

Ah gotcha on the spacers. I don't particularly care for the idea of wheel spacers, unless I move up to 35's and absolutely have to have them to clear. I will see how it goes once the alignment is done.

The front swaybar bushings aren't really something that need to be greased, they are mounted directly to the underbody to hold the bar in place. They are physically getting smashed from age and wear, so I'm hoping that replacing them cures the problem in the short term. If it does, I will look into a urethane option later for longevity. Good ideas though, thank you.
 
try adjusting your turnstops to avoid rubbing at full lock...it reduces your turning radius a bit, but will stop rubbing on UCA's
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom