Future thoughts, since I will already be in there.....

[bennysc]

Hey everyone - This is one of my first posts, although I have been lurking around for quite a while.

Quick backstory - 1984 FJ60, White, all stock - this was my grandfathers, which has been in my family ever since and it needs a little tlc, but nothing major considering it only has 101k on it. I recently got it out of storage after 3 years (was supposed to be a couple months while I moved, but that how things go sometimes) and have recently started doing some minor repairs and upgrades.

Back to the point - I have all of the seats, carpet and interior panels off so that I can perform the following:

1 - Repair some minor rust spots in the rear wheel wells
2 - install sound / vibration dampening - (Grace Vycor Ultra)
3 - Run 12v power (8ga) and RCA lines to the rear area for future installation of audio gear / power inverter
4 - clean original carpeting
5 - repair or replace e-brake cable
6 - repair fuel sender (already complete - corrosion on the connector)

I know this can be a dangerous question and we can't think of every scenario, but since I have already gone to this level of trouble - what else could you think of / recommend I do for future upgrades or potential problems?

I may install a cb and possibly a ham radio is in my future (just beginning to study for the licenses).

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Heartworm]

Decide what to do with rear heater. I still have mine but don't use it, even at -25 degrees F. The whole arrangement seems like something waiting to go wrong at the most inopportune time. Grease the door lock mechanisms and window regulators.

 

[bennysc]

Heartworm - thanks for the suggestion on the window mechanisms - had not thought of that.

For other future replies, I should clarify that I am looking for suggestions regarding the interior or mechanical items that can be accessed with the interior out.

thanks again!

 

[rusty_tlc]

For the Ham Radio you may want to run an extra pair of #10 wires from the engine compartment to one of the rear quarter panels. Many HAM radios have a remote head allowing you to mount the radio body in an out of the way location. You want the radio on a dedicated circuit with both +12V and Ground connected directly to the battery. The antenna will most likely go through the head liner so unless you have that off not much to do there.

While you have it torn up you might as well mount a fuse sub panel connected to that #8 wire. Blue Sea makes some nice panels. Get one with at least 2 more circuits than you ever anticipate using, you won't regret the extras.

If you have some bucks take a look at the products from Wagon Gear, very nice products that give you a ton of extra storage space.


RE rear heater: Never had a problem in 20 years with the rear heater in my FJ40 and the hoses etc. are a lot more exposed than in my 60. Back seat passengers really like to toast their toes after standing out in the cold shooting or playing in the snow. I'd never remove mine.

 

[bennysc]

Regarding the fuse-block - should i wire that to only have voltage when the ignition is on?

If so - how do i wire that up?

Thanks!

 

[biomax]

I was where you were a year ago. Run all the electrical you can ever imagine needing now. I put 2 fuse blocks in the rig (under driver's seat and in cargo). Also, run bigger wire than you're planning, just in case you need it in the future (I ran 6ga for the distribution blocks, and 4ga for stereo).

If you intend to do Ham or CB, go ahead and do that now as well. Same for electronic brake controller.

Again, anything electrical, run it while the carpet is out.

(And you already covered the sound deadening, which is the 2nd most important thing to do at this time).

Good luck.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Regarding the fuse-block - should i wire that to only have voltage when the ignition is on?

If so - how do i wire that up?

Thanks!

For now I'd set it up with an isolator. Any trailer place can set you up with a solenoid battery isolator and thermal breaker as well as explain how to hook it up. You will need all the same hardware if you go with an aux battery later just wired a little differently.

 

[Kynot62]

I ran both my Blue seas fuse boxes directly off the buss bar under my hood. They each have a 50 amp fuse at the buss bar. I run a buss bar because I run two batteries, for accessories and to start my diesel.

If you ever run something like a fridge (which I do) it has to have power overnight. I don't want to have to leave the key on just so the aux fuse box has power.

I also run a GPS and got tired of it turning off when the rig is off so it is hooked to an outlet that comes off the always live fuse panel. This way I don't have to wait for it to find the satelites everytime I shut off the rig.

I don't like isolators as you lose voltage,about a volt, if I remember correctly. I prefer isolating the batteries from each other and the electrical system with a marine battery switch when such a thing is required. For how I set up my dual batteries check this write up. http://thewagonway.com/?p=2774 There is also a page for how I set up my fuse panels.

For the most part I think you pretty much covered the most important stuff in your original post. Hard to tell what you need in the future till you put the rig to work...

Best of luck
Tony

 

[rusty_tlc]

I ran both my Blue seas fuse boxes directly off the buss bar under my hood. They each have a 50 amp fuse at the buss bar. I run a buss bar because I run two batteries, for accessories and to start my diesel.

......
Best of luck
Tony

He is running power to the back of the vehicle, not under the hood. This is a very good idea because it give you a power access near the rear of the truck for stuff like extra interior lights, an inverter or a fridge.

....
I don't like isolators as you lose voltage,about a volt, if I remember correctly. .....
Best of luck
Tony

This is not true with a mechanical solenoid, the voltage drop across the contacts is negligible. The contact "ON" resistance is typically measured in the milli-ohms.

You are probably thinking of solid state isolators. In any case it's the current that you supply to the Aux battery that matters. The voltage drop across the solid state isolator will however result in power dissipation (P=IV), ie the isolator will get hot, which is why I don't like them.

 

[88Retired62]

Above all else safety issues come first... especially after a 3year layup. But then, LIFT-LIFT-LIFT! Lots of complete kits on the market. It's going to be fun working on a very good FJ60 platform.