Fuse box addition (1 Viewer)

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I was looking to add an extra fuse box to my 40. I was looking at this Bluesea.
Any of you electrical experts out there have any suggestions on if this is good or others I might look at.

Thanks in advance.

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Blue Sea is top notch.
 

here is the post and some pics of the set up i have
 
I've used Blue Sea on one of my motorcycles but not on my FJ-40. My suggestion is to get one with more circuits than you think you need. It will allow for future expansion.
 
Get something that has relays too. If you're going to add more circuits it's likely you'll need additional relays to switch them. I use a fuse/relay box out of later model cars, usually has plenty of circuits. You can use a toyota one and make it look OEM, but the underhood fuse boxes from mid 90's cherokees are really easy to hook up, 1 wire powers all the circuits.
 
Get something that has relays too. If you're going to add more circuits it's likely you'll need additional relays to switch them. I use a fuse/relay box out of later model cars, usually has plenty of circuits. You can use a toyota one and make it look OEM, but the underhood fuse boxes from mid 90's cherokees are really easy to hook up, 1 wire powers all the circuits.
I am getting ready to hook up my fog lights, a spotlight, my blackout lights, and a 8274 Warn winch. What should I do with the relays in a Cherokee box like this? (Found one on eBay)
 
Any higher power lights should always be run through relays, they usually draw quite a bit of current. Then you can run thinner wire through the firewall to the switches that trigger the relays. Fuse each one separately but the trigger wires can all run on one fuse.

Winch is too much current for a relay or fuse so that would be connected directly to the battery. I have mine connected through a high amp switch, I just posted a pic of it in the winching forum
 
Any higher power lights should always be run through relays, they usually draw quite a bit of current. Then you can run thinner wire through the firewall to the switches that trigger the relays. Fuse each one separately but the trigger wires can all run on one fuse.

Winch is too much current for a relay or fuse so that would be connected directly to the battery. I have mine connected through a high amp switch, I just posted a pic of it in the winching forum
How and where did you mount the Cherokee box? Also, I'm not sure what you mean that the trigger wires can all run on one fuse. For instance...I have switches mounted already in the cab for fog lights and a spotlight. Would I run a "trigger" wire to each switch from two individual relays? Are you saying there should be a shared fuse serving these "trigger" wires? Thanks for your help and please excuse my ignorance.
 
How and where did you mount the Cherokee box? Also, I'm not sure what you mean that the trigger wires can all run on one fuse. For instance...I have switches mounted already in the cab for fog lights and a spotlight. Would I run a "trigger" wire to each switch from two individual relays? Are you saying there should be a shared fuse serving these "trigger" wires? Thanks for your help and please excuse my ignorance.
For my FJ40 I used a Toyota 4runner box to keep it "OEM" looking, but I used a cherokee (might have been a Grand Cherokee) box on my jeep and it was much easier to hook up. One heavy 8ga wire powered up all the fuses and relays in the box, so all you had to do was connect your outputs and switches.

Newer toyota's use are negative switched, so I had to do some internal rewiring of the 4runner fuse/relay box to make it work with the 40 electrical. In hindsight, if I was smarter at the time or thought about it more carefully, it might have been easier to modify the 40 wiring to make it work with the fuse box but too late now.

You would run the "trigger" from each switch to the individual relay it controls relays. The signal/trigger wires on the relays draw very little current, so the power that triggers each of the relays can all be run from one fuse. In the below diagram the signal/trigger wire goes to pin 86. Ideally there would be a fuse in between the battery and switch, but the power for all the switches can come off one fuse. A 5A fuse is probably more than enough to power multiple relays at the same time. The power wire (pin 30) would also have a fuse between the battery and relay, but each of those would be an individual fuse rated appropriately for the wire and load for each relay
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For my FJ40 I used a Toyota 4runner box to keep it "OEM" looking, but I used a cherokee (might have been a Grand Cherokee) box on my jeep and it was much easier to hook up. One heavy 8ga wire powered up all the fuses and relays in the box, so all you had to do was connect your outputs and switches.

Newer toyota's use are negative switched, so I had to do some internal rewiring of the 4runner fuse/relay box to make it work with the 40 electrical. In hindsight, if I was smarter at the time or thought about it more carefully, it might have been easier to modify the 40 wiring to make it work with the fuse box but too late now.

You would run the "trigger" from each switch to the individual relay it controls relays. The signal/trigger wires on the relays draw very little current, so the power that triggers each of the relays can all be run from one fuse. In the below diagram the signal/trigger wire goes to pin 86. Ideally there would be a fuse in between the battery and switch, but the power for all the switches can come off one fuse. A 5A fuse is probably more than enough to power multiple relays at the same time. The power wire (pin 30) would also have a fuse between the battery and relay, but each of those would be an individual fuse rated appropriately for the wire and load for each relay
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OK Thanks for taking the time to explain. I guess this will be a learning experience for me, but once figured out, perhaps I will be able to help somebody else out as you have graciously done for me. Ted
 

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