funky rear axle fill plug on 93 fj80 (1 Viewer)

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Just so you know...wrong answer to this question is "no fatter'n your other ones" 😝
No, it's your fat ass inside the jeans that makes the jeans make you look fat.










Wait.....Wut?
 
No, it's your fat ass inside the jeans that makes the jeans make you look fat.

Wait.....Wut?

Yeah, they should know that already and not have to 'fish for compliments/lies' from their man.

When you have to buy jeans by the 'square foot' its time to go on a damn diet!

To keep this tech. I think 37" tires would be enough.
 
See if this presents an idea. Hard to asses in a cramped dark space but when looking at photos looks like a substitute bolt tack welded in place. on the opposite side there seems to be a hole like for a cotter pin but I can not see as it is hidden. those are threads inside the bolt. The other axel fills and drains have flat bolts and not any using star drives...which I find on our Sequoia.

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WOW. Why didn't they replace the plug? I know, stupid PO question...
 
WOW. Why didn't they replace the plug? I know, stupid PO question...
This was probably taken to a shop and the shop didn’t want to wait around on a new plug. The PO like most probably had no idea.
 
I would grab the nut with some vise grips, handles sticking out to the right at ~4:00 position, trying to avoid the welds if possible, then use a floor jack to gradually increase the upward force/CCW torque on the vise grips until it hopefully breaks free. Would also soak it with penetrating oil and maybe hit with a propane torch and allow it to cool a few times first.

I posted some photos of my solution to a mangled/rounded off diff plug here:


The drain plug was fortunately not mangled and I was able to get that off the regular way with a socket I ground the chamfer off of.
 
The drain plug was fortunately not mangled and I was able to get that off the regular way with a socket I ground the chamfer off of.

^^^^

That is the secret. Remove the beveled 'lead in' on the socket so you get full contact with the already shallow head of the plug.

Also, use a 15/16" socket for the tightest fit.

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^^^^

That is the secret. Remove the beveled 'lead in' on the socket so you get full contact with the already shallow head of the plug.

Also, use a 15/16" socket for the tightest fit.

Yep, I've got one that looks just like that. I don't have a grinder here so I stuck it on a drill chuck to 1/2" drive adapter and ran it against sand paper until flat. The fill plug was unfortunately already too rounded off to get a good hold with the socket, kept slipping off. I'd swear that damn thing is made of aluminum, it was soft like butter compared to the drain plug.
 
I've been considering changing to those plugs. Haven't taken the plunge yet, because if they did stick in place I've got no idea how I'd get them out, which worries me a bit. Probably worth it if they're regularly maintained though.
 
I've been considering changing to those plugs. Haven't taken the plunge yet, because if they did stick in place I've got no idea how I'd get them out, which worries me a bit. Probably worth it if they're regularly maintained though.
The plug is quite deep with almost zero chance of striping if you use the right allen wrench/ sockit.
I use one of these.
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I've been considering changing to those plugs. Haven't taken the plunge yet, because if they did stick in place I've got no idea how I'd get them out, which worries me a bit. Probably worth it if they're regularly maintained though.

Just takes a 10mm allen key on a breaker bar. You can put a ton of pressure on them and not strip them. Use some anti-seize on the threads of ANY drain or fill plug also. Then you won't have to fight them next time you need to remove one.

And don't forget the Cardinal Rule: ALWAYS remove the fill plug first.
 
I've been considering changing to those plugs. Haven't taken the plunge yet, because if they did stick in place I've got no idea how I'd get them out, which worries me a bit. Probably worth it if they're regularly maintained though.
Same way the guy before you got yours loose. Or one of several other ways that have been mentioned, like heating it, smacking it around a bit, cold chisel, etc. I find the allen style helpful because I mangle the raised ring around the drain plug to the point where a socket won't fit between it and the plug. It's not an issue with the fill plug, but I like the idea of using one tool for both plugs. I believe the allen style can be had with or without a magnet- but make sure the magnet clears the ring gear when inserted in the fill hole, if it's a different depth. I can't remember for sure if that's an issue or not. Biggest issue in my experience is people overtightening the plugs, including oil pan plugs. There are torque specs for a reason.
 
No no no, you're all going about this wrong. What you have here is a perfect opportunity to explain to the wife why you need to buy a secondhand rear diff assembly. And since, being secondhand it'll need a full rebuild of course, you may as well stick a Harrop ELocker in there while you're at it. Only logical thing to do here really. ;)

I try to attribute everything to safety to sell what I want to buy for the truck.

-bumpers and sliders…clearly safety

-new 10 ply mud tires…of course

the list goes on and on but she’s on to me now.
 
I try to attribute everything to safety to sell what I want to buy for the truck.

-bumpers and sliders…clearly safety

-new 10 ply mud tires…of course

the list goes on and on but she’s on to me now.

Once they're on to you....then you have to shift strategies. Since the 'Jig is up' anyway....you have to allow/encourage them to go and buy something they want. Then you get to get something you want, repeat process. Yeah...its expensive but that's where you're at now.

Always make it sound like YOUR idea that she go and get something. Otherwise you don't get credit and you lose ALL control over the spending (instead of just some). But you can still make this work to your advantage. Its just not Carte Blanche anymore. ;)
 

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