funky rear axle fill plug on 93 fj80 (1 Viewer)

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Feb 19, 2011
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Tacoma wash
was trying to change diff lube in rear axle but can't remove plug. It's like none I've seen before. There seems to be a raised boss on 1 flat that seems like it.s supposed to be a register for a tool and the plug is hollow with screw threads on the inside. Any help please. I wonder if one of the prior servicings someone striped a plug and put in a substitute hanging around. I've worked on a lot of cars and never seen this before. The drain and front axles don't have this...just the usual style of plug.
 
gonna need some pics.
 
was trying to change diff lube in rear axle but can't remove plug. It's like none I've seen before. There seems to be a raised boss on 1 flat that seems like it.s supposed to be a register for a tool and the plug is hollow with screw threads on the inside. Any help please. I wonder if one of the prior servicings someone striped a plug and put in a substitute hanging around. I've worked on a lot of cars and never seen this before. The drain and front axles don't have this...just the usual style of plug.
A picture would help
 
See if this presents an idea. Hard to asses in a cramped dark space but when looking at photos looks like a substitute bolt tack welded in place. on the opposite side there seems to be a hole like for a cotter pin but I can not see as it is hidden. those are threads inside the bolt. The other axel fills and drains have flat bolts and not any using star drives...which I find on our Sequoia.

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Stock plug was rounded off so someone welded a nut onto it.
DING! We have a winner!

While its obviously working, you might want to consider getting a replacement.
 
WTF

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Makes since, but how to get it off as I can't get a socket around it. It's been well covered with penetrating oil and it won't budge. Hate to take it to the dealer as they don't know any more about cruisers then the local shops. Thanks for the reply though. I'm afraid if I file the weld down to get a socket on then it won't be strong enough to get it off.
 
Try putting a pair of Vice Grips on it and tap/wack it loose with a hammer.
And have a replacement to go back in. I’ve got a decent one in GA that you can have if you have time to wait.
 
Crescent wrench or a pipe wrench.
I'd be careful tapping on it, that could break loose the welds.
 
Pipe wrench and heat. GRADUAL pressure, do not tap on it or create a 'spike force'.

It's probably rusted in place to some degree. Looks like someone in the past was a 'dedicated' person, judging by how thoroughly rounded the original plug is. Sheeeeesh.
 
No no no, you're all going about this wrong. What you have here is a perfect opportunity to explain to the wife why you need to buy a secondhand rear diff assembly. And since, being secondhand it'll need a full rebuild of course, you may as well stick a Harrop ELocker in there while you're at it. Only logical thing to do here really. ;)
 
No no no, you're all going about this wrong. What you have here is a perfect opportunity to explain to the wife why you need to buy a secondhand rear diff assembly. And since, being secondhand it'll need a full rebuild of course, you may as well stick a Harrop ELocker in there while you're at it. Only logical thing to do here really. ;)

And since the rear axle would be 'fresh' then Logic further dictates that the front one should be gone through as well (for reliability's sake). A locker would be needed there too of course. Accessorize (women should understand that). ;)
 
And since the rear axle would be 'fresh' then Logic further dictates that the front one should be gone through as well (for reliability's sake). A locker would be needed there too of course. Accessorize (women should understand that). ;)
Well, because you're regearing and need to install 40" tires.
 

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