Fun with birfs and bearing repacks

[Elacim]

So I had a little vibration when I hit the brakes.....first thing I think of was warped rotors. I bought DBA 4000 drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads and "while I was in there" I decided to rebuild the knuckles and repack the birfs. Everything was going great...drivers side done, moved to the passenger side and right away had issues. My knuckle wobbled really bad. Inspected to find that I had only 3 studs holding on the steering arm and one thread holding on another stud and the other 2 were pretty loose. So I'm no rocket surgeon but I started thinking maybe this vibration isn't rotors. That was thankfully a cheap $11 fix but could have been much worse to fatal.

So jobs all done and vibrations are gone and the brakes are FRICKIN AWESOME!.....I have questions about the wheel bearings though. I followed the torque and turn technique and the fish scale showed 9.5-10 on each side for bearing preload. It drives excellent but I've checked the hub temp each time I've stopped. The first couple times I could only keep my fingers on it for a couple seconds. The last time was better and a squirt of water didn't ever sizzle off. So whats a good way to tell if things are getting too hot? How much heat transfer should I expect from the rotors? I'm in Phoenix so heat is abundant and I don't wanna burn out new bearings (duh). Thoughts???

Thanks

 

[hicruise55]

Just my .02 but if the hub was hot to the touch... the grease has broken down and no longer doing its intended purpose

 

[Elacim]

I would agree except that the day I tested the hub temps was the day I did the rebuild and put in freshly packed new bearings. Thats what makes me kinda suspect that I have them too tight.

 

[Lockd97]

I have the exact same DBA rotors and pads for 25K and still have plenty of pad left. Excellent performance. However I don't have the hot hub problem. Did you use the correct grease (wheel bearing)? I guess the better question is what kind did you use?

 

[Elacim]

I used Mobil synthetic wheel bearing grease....the red stuff. I've done bearing swaps on Ford, Dodge and IH products and haven't had the hubs hot before....just normal warmth. But Toyota and the the torque to 43 lbs...turn 3 time....torque....then fish scale then hub is a new process to me. Also when I tested them was right after 25 miles at 80 mph. I just wonder if I am paranoid or if I should re check the bearings.

Thanks!!

 

[Buckru]

I used Mobil synthetic wheel bearing grease....the red stuff. I've done bearing swaps on Ford, Dodge and IH products and haven't had the hubs hot before....just normal warmth. But Toyota and the the torque to 43 lbs...turn 3 time....torque....then fish scale then hub is a new process to me. Also when I tested them was right after 25 miles at 80 mph. I just wonder if I am paranoid or if I should re check the bearings.

Thanks!!

The last time you torqe the bearings should be in "inch pounds". If you used foot pounds on the last torque then I would say they are too tight.

Buck Buchanan

 

[Elacim]

Thanks Buck. They are torqued to ft/lbs so that would be definitely too tight.


That begs to ask....how do I torque to inch/lbs?? how does the fish scale work out then because it said 9.5-10 lbs on the hub test which is what is recommended?

Thanks
Josh

 

[Buckru]

Josh,

Landtank has a pretty good approach to this and I believe his process is in the faq section. Do a little searching on this.

Here's what I do. On the last tourqe, I use the inch pounds and check the preload. If the preload is on the upper end of the specs, I back it off a hair and recheck the preload. If it is on the lower end, I hand tighten it up a little and recheck. I keep doing this till I get the numbers where I want to them.

Buck

 

[cc93cruiser]

That begs to ask....how do I torque to inch/lbs?? how does the fish scale work out then because it said 9.5-10 lbs on the hub test which is what is recommended?

Thanks
Josh

Get a inch/lbs. torque wrench...Physically, they are usually smaller, but obviuosly it would say inch/lbs...

 

[reffug]

wow that alot of stuff done when only studs were the culprit...................

feels good though doesn't it.

 

[Elacim]

wow that alot of stuff done when only studs were the culprit...................

feels good though doesn't it.

Well I've only had the truck for a year and a half so I like knowing where it stands mechanically....but yeah.....it does suck to have spent so much to just find that

 

[reffug]

Well I've only had the truck for a year and a half so I like knowing where it stands mechanically....but yeah.....it does suck to have spent so much to just find that

hey no worries.

its all good.

as a matter of fact I ended up doing my front birfs because of loose/missing studs, it happens. just be glad you caught it and fixed it before something serious happened at road speed.

all the work you have done should feel good and you should enjoy.

 

[Elacim]

totally man! I love it....other than the mess its fun to do and not crashing over a $3 part is ALWAYS welcome at my house.

now its off to get a INCH/lbs torque wrench and finish this thing!!!!!

 

[lathamb]

Does it matter as much what the torque on the nut is so long as the preload on the bearing is within spec?

I torqued mine up with the regular ft.lbs torque wrench until I had a good preload with the fish scale. I'm fairly certain it was more than 48 in lbs. though. My wrench didn't even go that low. If i recall 48 in lbs is like 3-4 ft. lbs or something.

 

[Elacim]

So I pulled it apart and checked the bearings. No damage!! followed the torque schedule and preload. Drove 10-15 miles on the freeway and checked the hubs. They were warm but I never had to yank my hand back like before. Thanks for the help....that could have been a stupid mistake!