Full width toyota axle? (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 30, 2009
Threads
16
Messages
259
Location
Woodland Park
Website
redlinelandcruisers.com
A little background, was cleaning up the shop one day started looking at all the FJ-60 rear axles we had laying around (we don't seem to use them very fast) and had an idea...

Started measuring the axles and discovered that we could make a wider front axle out of it (all the way to full width; chevy 69.25"). After doing a bit more measuring I also found out that we could off-set the diff so that it had a FJ-40 center line.

Fast forward six months our current FJ-40 that we are going to unveil at this years Cruise Moab will have full width Toyota axles. Not that you can't go out and just buy a Diamond (Brian's axles are nice) we will now have a potential alternative, however we are still working on a final price.

The axle pictured has 5* of caster, and the diff is pointed at the t-case front output (setup for a CV front, with max clearance at the drive-shaft).

Axle has been fully cleaned is only waiting for the truss at this point...

Lets hear your thoughts good, bad, or indifferent...

fullwidth9_5_2.jpg


fullwidth9_5.jpg


fullwidth9_5_3.jpg
 
Day late and a dollar short. :hmm:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/468979-fj40-rear-steer-axle-build.html


Same process but with a 40 rear housing. Same thing you have done but with a 40 instead of a 60 housing.


So explain to me why I would would want to to build a fullsize axle out of a toyota axle?

Were you not bending housings fast enough?

In my part of the country a fullsize axle kicks ass for strength but it doesnt fit well in the woods. So people compromise and build toyotas cuz they are somewhat strong and small.

Now making a toyota axle as wide as a fullsize axle puts even more stress on the wimpy sheetmetal axletubes.

If I was after fullsize axles, why not just build fullsize axles and get real gears, real lockers, real axleshafts, real axletubes, real deal.

Is this polishing a turd or smearing poop on a diamond?
 
it's def polishing a turd lol......BUT if all you want to do is get wider and have already made the mistake of throwing too much $$$ at your toy axle (i.e. detroit, longs, etc. etc.) then all you've gotta buy is new inner axles......buying a D60 and then building it up strong is a pretty big investment (a smart investment imo but not always feasible for everyone myself included)
 
Last edited:
I did the same thing, only I went out to 64" WMS to WMS to match my rear. I gusseted the poo out of it with 1/4" channel top and bottom. I used a set of Six Shooter knuckles and Marlin's knuckle ball gussets. I had Bobby Long make me some custom shafts to go with the 30-spline Longfields. I seriously doubt it could be bent without airing it out enough to need to contact the tower at the airport for clearance.
 
If you're going with full width axles, I'd just install a D60 and be done with it.

I really can't see a reason to have 69.x" wide Toyota axle.
 
It's definitely polishing a turd, I have nothing against Diamond, just some thing we built.

I like full widths for stability (Colorado) I think it will be every bit as strong as a normal yota axle. Also a yota axle has a bit more clearance than a 1 ton.

For me this is not much more difficult than a cut and turn only its wide and stable. That and if you run a centered wheel instead of 2" backspacing its easier on trunnion bearings and wheel bearings.

No argument on overall strength or shaft size, goes to the 1 ton hands down... We are building a buggy for Justin with 1 tons....
 
As maligned as it is among the "hard core" folks, a birfield is smoother at angle than a U-joint. Drop outs are awesome, light weight is too if it's strong enough. Those are a few reasons to do it. I'm happy with my polished turd. It seems a better investment than trying to make a 2F go fast.
 
As maligned as it is among the "hard core" folks, a birfield is smoother at angle than a U-joint. Drop outs are awesome, light weight is too if it's strong enough. Those are a few reasons to do it. I'm happy with my polished turd. It seems a better investment than trying to make a 2F go fast.

You can get a Longfield birfield for a Dana 60. Not cheap, but very strong. You're still limited to the strength of the 30 spline axles and pinion of the LC third member.

If I were to build another axle, it would be a diamond housing with Dana 60 outers, Dana 60 Longfield front axles (birfields), and Ford HP 9" nodular third.
 
I would love to build a spider axle high 9 with spidertrax knuckles! Price is brutal though....

It is only time and money.. Nice work on building your axle. You know why you're building one? Because you can. :)
 
You can get a Longfield birfield for a Dana 60.

buddy it's making that swap .. ( been breaking stuff with swampers 43" under a F-350 ) kinda expensive ..
 
buddy it's making that swap .. ( been breaking stuff with swampers 43" under a F-350 ) kinda expensive ..

If you want to build it right, it is going to be expensive. I've got plenty of money tied up in my axles. I know about the expensive part... :-(

Long Dana 60 CV was not an option when I built my HP D60 front axle. Ended up with Superior 35 spline axles and CTM ujoints. I have not had any issue with the setup.
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
When you polish a turd make sure to wear gloves and eye protection. When trussed and complete with longs etc it should be a strong/slick axle. A lot of work i am certain, but g.ood benefits and plenty of strength if the driver is worth a ****. Continue on my friend!!!
 
I think it is cool but I can agree with others regarding one tons.

Of course, I have one tons in my garage and the ability to swap them over but I choose not to.
 
I'll add to this, we just got back from Moab last night, we brought the truck back with us because we have a little finish work to do.
The truck is very stable, and it turns better than any Toy axle I have ever had. Steering stops are turned almost all the way in since the leaf springs are pretty narrow. (out boarded 1.5" from factory 40)...
 
i'm very happy with my wider axle too.....it feels SO much better in offcamber-downhill situations
 
Agreed I was driving the truck off ledges diagonally that would have rolled a mini (where most of my experience is). With the width of the axle it didn't even feel like it was a 3' difference. Again the width coupled with the additional turning radius was amazing! If I build yota axles ever again (for myself) they will be full width no questions...
 
Jay, what is the wms-wms of the new axle?
 
69.25" Same as a GM Dana 60, however the pumpkin center line offset is the same as a 40.
We might be building another full width for a different customer pretty soon, and it will see some serious destructive testing...

Evan saw in another thread that you got a new 40?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom