Full Float Rear Axle Rotor Studs (1 Viewer)

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How can you say that? Thousands of FZJ owners and wheelers would disagree with you....

I'm curious about that too. The 9.5" is up to KOH, Baja, Dakar and many other competitive events. It's proven quite a robust differential. Sure there are stringer axle assemblies out there, but it's eliminated the weak-link SF that many have suffered with in heavy use applications.
 
I've got a question for those who might know. I ordered a 40 series full floating rear axle, and when it came in, I could tell some of the parts were not OEM. It had Nitro Axles in it. (which is a good thing, I guess) Also, it looked to me like the hubs were not factory. (all of the brake components had been removed.) All this being said, there were no studs for the rotor to go on when I do my disc brake conversion. Does anyone know the part number of the studs I need to source?

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That is quite the interesting combination you received. All in all, Full-Floats are hard to source. Gone are the days where we could run down to Marv's and get a truck bed full of them (did that several times in the early 2000's). Ironically I'm working on a long-term project to bring a container load of parts over from the Middle East and there are more full-floats there than semi-float, so there is hope on the horizon :cool:

You have the wheel hubs of a 9/1975 - 1/1990 4x/6x/7x have this profile:

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Yours look like the 1/1990+ 7x variant:

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Have you measured the WMS-WMS of the axle? What perches are on it?

As for your parts. Did they include any of the brake parts? You're missing the backing plates, cylinders, shoes, hardware, bell-cranks, etc. Outside of the backing plates themselves (and used are out there), everything else is readily available. We can setup all of it with a quick phone call should you need it. Here is a rough draft of necessary parts.

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You're right. They do look like the second one. I'm not going to need any of the drum brake components, since I'm converting to disc. Hopefully, that being a later version hub, it doesn't hamper my conversion process.

I hope your parts venture works out for you. We need all that stuff we can get over here.
 
You're right. They do look like the second one. I'm not going to need any of the drum brake components, since I'm converting to disc. Hopefully, that being a later version hub, it doesn't hamper my conversion process.

I hope your parts venture works out for you. We need all that stuff we can get over here.

Shouldn't limit a disc brake setup. Before you clean-up and paint that housing. I'd measure the WMS-WMS and spring perches, verify you're good to go with a 4x FF housing.
 
Shouldn't limit a disc brake setup. Before you clean-up and paint that housing. I'd measure the WMS-WMS and spring perches, verify you're good to go with a 4x FF housing.

I will get a measurement off the FF housing tomorrow. (I've got the axle at work) Without measuring, and according to what I found on google, a stock semi-float FJ40 rear WMS-WMS is 55.25".

One good thing I discovered today, is that the differential in the FF axle I got is 4.11, so it matches what I currently have in my '72 model 40. I thought it would probably be a 3.73, so that was a pleasant surprise.
 
Swaybar mounts, interesting. It's missing the park brake cable pivot bracket. Could have come from a 45/47 with the sway bar, non-LSPV and a t-case integrated park brake.



Oh, neglected to answer your original question!

Wheel studs:

or OEM as WHL02052OEM. We have hundreds in stock if you need a set. Can/will ship today. Fortunately the same for both full-float hub options you're dealing with.
 
sway bar mounts means it's a 80-84 45/47 axle right? I thought those had handbrake on T-case and would not have the mounting tabs on the axle?
Maybe HJ75?
 
sway bar mounts means it's a 80-84 45/47 axle right? I thought those had handbrake on T-case and would not have the mounting tabs on the axle?
Maybe HJ75?

But it's missing the park-brake pivot bracket and doesn't appear cut-off so I suspect it the variant that uses the late model brakes without the integral PB.

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The bracket on the diff cover is odd but it seems that is common. I think I see it on the FJ45 at the museum that has t-case mounted part brake. So it's likely from 45/47 with LSPV and the sway bar

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Yup, it's on this one too. But they all lack the pivot bracket and the cable mount bracket.

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IIRC the newer 9.5's have larger pinion and bearings, The 80's & older LC 9.5's have not held up for me, the carrier cross shaft or spider gears always break, never broke a pinion. Thats all, just an observation.
 
IIRC the newer 9.5's have larger pinion and bearings, The 80's & older LC 9.5's have not held up for me, the carrier cross shaft or spider gears always break, never broke a pinion. Thats all, just an observation.

Easily fixed with an ARB or Detroit or Spool :)
 
Not that I really need it, but I'll be putting in a lunchbox locker. I just wanted the FF rear end for the cool factor. My days of really heavy duty off roading are over.
 
Been my experience the bracket with the fixed nut on back cover is on all the late 40 series FF rear axles. The small plate on the housing to the left of the diff housing is also there. That is where the rod for the brake sensor attaches to the housing. My 82 FJ40 semi floating axle has that plate. Guess if you wanted a FF axle with everything wound be from a mid wheel base. Those have a hand brake and sway bar.
 
Shouldn't limit a disc brake setup. Before you clean-up and paint that housing. I'd measure the WMS-WMS and spring perches, verify you're good to go with a 4x FF housing.

My wife works in that building where my axle is, and I called her to get a measurement. I tried my best to explain where to measure from, and she said it was 54.75". If that's true, that means it's 1/2" narrower than a semi-floating on a US 40.

Edit: Another source I found said that the rear WMS-WMS on a US 40 is 55.6".

Edit: I forgot to factor in the thickness of the rotors. 1/4" for each side. That means the width should be exactly the same as the first spec I found for a U.S. model. 55.25.
 
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Not that I really need it, but I'll be putting in a lunchbox locker. I just wanted the FF rear end for the cool factor. My days of really heavy duty off roading are over.


my only reason i am restoring , rebuilding and refurbishing my 6X series rear full floating rear axle is the Ghetto Lunch-Box brand product failed in a terminal way , when it did both rear tires locked up instantly and at same time at highway speed 48mph approx. , the truck lost some control and i was lucky to be able to regain control and survive this sudden event , going straight on a paved road ...

- my opinion of that product and recommendation to anyone who would ever consider one :



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my only reason i am restoring , rebuilding and refurbishing my 6X series rear full floating rear axle is the Ghetto Lunch-Box brand product failed in a terminal way , when it did both rear tires locked up instantly and at same time at highway speed 48mph approx. , the truck lost some control and i was lucky to be able to regain control and survive this sudden event , going straight on a paved road ...

my opinion of that product and recommendation to anyone who would ever consider one :

Well what brand was it? I've used lunchbox lockers with great success in Toyota Trucks, and in Suzuki Samurais. I've always used Lock-Rite, though.
 
Well what brand was it? I've used lunchbox lockers with great success in Toyota Trucks, and in Suzuki Samurais. I've always used Lock-Rite, though.

Likewise. I've got local customers (many Mud members) that have installed LockRights in various Land Cruisers they've owned over decades of use. If it's a daily driver and your hundreds of miles from legit off-road terrain, yeah it may not make a ton of sense but for a weekend wheeler that doesn't see tons of highway, they are great bang for the buck (emphasizing the bang) :D
 
They'll pop and carry on during slow speed turns on pavement, but I've never had a problem with one, and I've put them to some hard core use over the years. But yeah, a part-time locker would be better for a daily driver.
 

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