fuel tank

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Hi all yes now with all the work so far in power steering,disk brakes,building a 350 and getting all new exhaust and redoing the inside I get ready to put the feul tank in looks pretty crapyso I scuff It up and notice Its leaking so I need to buy a new one and I'm plastic this time but the ads say they will fit 73-78 and I have a 70 what time of mods do I have to do to make It fit jt outfitters I think has the best price.Thanks :mad:
 
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I can't really answer the question about difference between the tanks, but...

I wanted to point out that for $9 more, you can buy the CCoT tank, and get new fuel lines & a sending unit. Even if you don't use them, the lines & hose could be moth-balled as spare parts for whenever the time of need may arise. From what I've seen, the sending unit alone is a $35-$50 part.
 
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Yea you are right I should go through ccot for that little bit more but now I'm waiting to go home from work and cut the old tank open and just see how bad because I might have my nieghbor weld It up since he can make sure It won't leak where he welds It, where I can make It stong but It may leak
 
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Whoa dude, ever hear of the Darwin awards? :eek: Screw that old piece of crap tank, make something cool like the saddle bag fuel tank that Percivial fab makes or like the one Man-it-aint free sells.
lrfueltank.jpg
 
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Funny you should post that double-size tank, Planet_X.  After swapping to the standard poly tank back in November, I've been thinking about that tank for the past month or so.  Even living in Denver, most good trails are a good hour drive to the west.  Couple that with your plain old 4-wheeling time & the LC's marginal mileage, and that tank would prove downright valuable.

As for the actual thread, I personally wouldn't waste much time on the stock tank if I didn't have to.  From the threads I've seen over the past few months, it sounds like it could be relatively pricey to get a radiator shop to repair (boil-out, braze, and re-seal) the stock tank. As IDave pointed out, you could probably save some of the cost by sealing the tank yourself.

Looking at SOR's catalog though, it looks like it may be unlikely that the common poly tank will work in your '70.  The "global" part #168-09 references the stock fuel tanks, but there are different listings between the 73-78 tank & the 68-71 tank.  I know the 73-78 tank sits in an indentation (about an inch or so deep) underneath the passenger seat....not sure if the same holds true with the '70...wish I'd taken some pictures when I swapped my tank out.

What is it that they say about hindsight?!  ;)
 
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There is a thread over on the POR general tech board about welding a gas tank-coincidence.
Wayne_fj-40- another thing to consider is the stocks tank's construction, my stock tank uses a ribbon seam braze construction now this is just a guess from eyeballing mine (76). So in theory if one could weld safely one would run the risk of melting the existing seams with the higher heat of a welding process like Mig which would mean the damn thing may start leaking in some other area....

Halo3, So I take it the poly tank does not utilize the body depression on the bottom of tank? Another good thing with the oversized tank pictured is it keeps the weight down low, underneath the rig would be better but space is at a premium.
Easiest would be to build one that is say maybe 4" tall but spans the whole bed area then you could bend most of it so weld seams will be minimized.
Anyway the one pictured is on my to do list before summer wheelin season hits-but I'll have to make mine out've mild steel as stainless or aluminum is not in the budget. Mine won't hold as much as the Man-fre one as I need to make it shorter so I can get my seats mounted lower.
 
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well if I were to get a new custom tank welded out of new fresh metal would it work to just have a welded box or does it have to have some sort of baffleing? :eek:
 
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I just went through the same thing this summer on my auxilary fuel tank springing leaks. I removed it and took a wire wheel to it and filled it with water. It leaked like a sive (spelling?). Not wanting to jump right into buying a new tank, I thought I'd try to fix it. After removing all the rust with the wire wheel I started filling all the pin holes with "JB Weld". No fire using that stuff and what did I have to lose except a puddle on the garage floor. That was August and it is still holding. Make sure and check it for leaks with water and then let it dry out for a couple days after. Don't know how long it will last but it could prolong the use of your old tank if you don't mind taking it out a second time. :-/

Paul
 
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I
well if I were to get a new custom tank welded out of new fresh metal would it work to just have a welded box or does it have to have some sort of baffleing?  :eek:
In the crude drawing below the red rectangle running in the middle of the 'tank' has the corners nibbed off-this is a simple baffle and since they can be this simple I will be using a couple reduces fuel slosh + will add some strength to the tank.
I have seen a post over on the POR board I think the zuki section and there was some talk of building gas tanks-
There is a bit more to a proper fuel tank, but it is doable,course I've not made one yet so like most stuff you read on the internet beware of Ass talk ;)
tank1.JPG
 
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Halo3, So I take it the poly tank does not utilize the body depression on the bottom of tank? Another good thing with the oversized tank pictured is it keeps the weight down low, underneath the rig would be better but space is at a premium.
Easiest would be to build one that is say maybe 4" tall but spans the whole bed area then you could bend most of it so weld seams will be minimized.
Anyway the one pictured is on my to do list before summer wheelin season hits-but I'll have to make mine out've mild steel as stainless or aluminum is not in the budget. Mine won't hold as much as the Man-fre one as I need to make it shorter so I can get my seats mounted lower.

The poly tank does indeed use the odd-shaped indentation underneath the passenger seat. Hence, if Wayne's '70 does not have that, this common replacement tank probably will not work for him.

As for that double tank, I've definitely been thinking about it. And, beings that I am on the hunt for some decent bucket seats, the fuel tank swap & seat bracket fabrication can go hand-in-hand. Once I get it all assembled though, I should have a much better cruising range & a much more comfortable perch from which to aim my 40 down the road.
 
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-snip- make something cool like the saddle bag fuel tank that Percivial fab makes or like the one Man-it-aint free sells.
lrfueltank.jpg

I've been considering one of these. A search for Percicial fab returned no results. Any more info? I'm trying to avoid Man-a-Fre.
 
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Well I called ccot this morning ordering a new tank.I cut mine open last night worse than I thought so I just bought a new one I was reading what you people have been writing and I no one thing It better work or Iwill be very upset and I will have to make It work everything read and seen I will have to adapt the filler neck and move the gas pickup line to the top instead of the side.My tank does have the baffle in the middle
 
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...I am still a fan of Toyota steel tanks.

no emissions is 77100-60012
w/ emissions is 77100-60042
(1979+ tanks are ungodly $$$$)

both the in cab tanks run $200-$222 w/ tlca discount or via some vendors.

new, steel, bolt in, Toyota.....
 
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Anyone know what that Percival Fabrication tank runs for?? I have a 22 gallon fuel cell right now, but I link the "under the seat" location that tank provides, as aposed to my 22 gallons in the bed.
 

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