Fuel Tank Replacement - Fill Tube Replacement Approach Ideas (2 Viewers)

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OwnerCS

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After experiencing a fuel drip from the old tank, I decided to move the fuel tank and cover from my donor 99 LX to the 02 LC.

I will be updating this thread as I move through the operation.

Learnings so far.

1) Removing the drive shaft to move it from the LX to the LC is making this job easier. The LX driveshaft is nearly new and I wanted to move it to the LC.

2) A mini-inductor heater works wonders for removing rusty bolts. It is a game changer.

3) The spare has already been removed since I will have it mounted on the rear bumper.

4) Replacing the fill tube may be a bear. I have read that it can be done with some wrestling.

5) Before I order a replacement fill pipe 77201-60531, I will look into an option to cut off the bad part of the pipe and replace it with some marine fuel hose. Though I would rather just replace the full pipe. I read about people cutting the fill pipe and welding it back together (80 series reference)

6) I want to replace the emergency brake cable while I have the tank out.

7) The good straps from the LX will be moved to the LC.

The replacement tank and cover from the 1999 LX470.

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The old tank and cover from the 2002 LC.

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The mini-inductor tool works like magic when removing rusty bolts.

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Side note: it’s nice to see someone’s tank as rusty as mine lol. Makes me feel not alone in the battle against scale. I will however be looking into one of those mini inductors. Plenty of rusted bolts on my rig 😂
 
Side note: it’s nice to see someone’s tank as rusty as mine lol. Makes me feel not alone in the battle against scale. I will however be looking into one of those mini inductors. Plenty of rusted bolts on my rig 😂
I need to thank @KCoverland for that tip.
 
Does the skidplate come off with the tank at the same time? I'd like to drop my skidplate and inspect for rust/dirt, but I don't want to drop the fuel tank itself. Thanks!
 
Does the skidplate come off with the tank at the same time? I'd like to drop my skidplate and inspect for rust/dirt, but I don't want to drop the fuel tank itself. Thanks!
The fuel tank partially came down at the same time. I had drained the tank to be lightweight by removing the fuel pump and siphoning off the fuel. It was held up by the hose that connect to the fill tube. There is a wiring harness and hose to remove before dropping the tank.
 
The only way that I could get the old filler tube out was to cut it in the area where the part number label is located. Unsuccessfully, I removed the spare carrier, and the filler tube grommet, and separated the small tube from the large tube. Even with those adaptions, I could not get it past the frame.

So I've resigned to the fact that I will need to slice the new tube for reinstallation. I'm looking for suggestions for where and how to make a cut. I can order another piece of flex hose to cover the area where I make the cut. The original flex hose has lasted for over 20 years. So I'm comfortable using that for this application.

If anyone has had to splice the filler tube on an 80 series, by all means, jump in. One of my buds with a 1999 model has replaced the tube. The 2002 model uses a different fill tube part that may be longer and thus causing this issue. I would rather not separate the body from the frame to gain enough clearance to do this one.


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The new fuel fill tube has been set into position for final installation.

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Scratches could have been avoided by covering this tip with grease so it would slide over the frame.


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These scratches could have been avoided by covering this part of the tube with duct tape and using some grease.

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The plastic wedge was used to tap the smaller end bracket over the frame.


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Did you lift up the body from the frame to insert the entire filler neck into position? Or you cut the new filler neck into two parts?
 
Did you lift up the body from the frame to insert the entire filler neck into position? Or you cut the new filler neck into two parts?

No lifting and no cutting. I was able to wiggle and slide it over the frame to get it into position. I could have avoided scratches and made it easier to get between the body and frame by coating the end and pipe with some thick grease. Next time will be easier.
 

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